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It is using Line Out as I read it. No need to fuss with loading.

Just use a high wattage resistor, say 10Wastt, between 4 and 10 Ohms instead of a loudspeaker. You can tap your loudspeaker across the resistor and insert a 2.2Watt vehicle marker lamp bulb in series with the speaker. This will protect the amplifier by supplying a load and attenuate the...

The original transformer had these colours for the primary windings. Common - Blue 110v - black 120v - brown 200v - red 220v - orange 240v - yellow Have you got mains going in? Have you any continuity between the primary windings? This will give you an idea of what is what...

A 4BA nut runner is what I use, close to 7mm. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/nut-drivers/0613555 or I think this may fit https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/nut-drivers/1829744 they are known by different names. You could just use a pait of pliers.

Move your live wires as shown.

I would think another explanation for the wrong fuse shown is the mains fuse is within the Shurta IEC connector? If it is, the wiring shown is correct.

The mains, 240v comes in from your IEC power connector, Grn/Yel bonded to the chassis using a crimp tab, NOT solder tab! to one mounting bolt of the mains transformer. The Scn tag of the transformer connects to the chassis also. Blue goes to one side of the mains switch. Brown goes to the fuse...

A 2A fuse will be for 110volt and 1A for 240v. The addition of the 315mA fuse is probably a good idea, it helps to protect the power supply when the output valves fail.

I would check the preamp and driver valves first if the anode load resistors are know to be good. Don't forget, just because it is new and shiny, doesn't mean it is perfect.

Point Z is a test point that unfortunately is not included in the service information. My guess is it is a point to measure the AC signal on the anode of the second 7025. Point Y is another test point.

Your photo is upside down, take note f the arrow for direction of reading. Should read Brown, Black, Orange and the value is in pF.

In the UK, (I have no idea where you are), I use RS or Farnell as wholesalers and CPC as trade suppliers. Not had any issues yet.

No worse than keepimg your gear in a Ford Transit van, like we used to in the 70s. They never suffered from high humidity. Standing water may damage the cabinets but as you have stated, it only got their feet wet so no harm done.

I am not aware of any X60 with a Phones output. Slave out on the early ones yes. Is it original I wonder and yes, valve amplifiers must have a load of some kind to avoid dangerous voltage spikes killing the output valves and transformer.

Is this lessons on how to burn your house down?

A picture or few of the damage would help! Don't forget the seller has a duty to make good your costs.

I make my own turret boards from my own drawings. An early amplifier I made 9 years ago, came in for service last week and upon removing the covers, it looked like it had been made yesterday and all it required was a new set of output valves. Other repairs that have badly damaged boards, I make...

I have a roll of this https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solder/0555099 and use it for sealing UHF and VHF Aluminium cases to make them RF tight. Good for soldering dirty materials but destroys your soldering iron bit if you don't clean the bit thoroughly! Close melting point to the 40/60 listed...

40 60 is not listed with any of the wholesalers I purchase from. Maybe you meant 60 40.

The best way to explore this circuit is to build it because you will get an accurate result straight away, instead of calculations that don't mean much, as a valve is a valve and as such each valve varies wildly in specifications, making calculations practically worthless in my experience...

That sounds like too much gain or your input signal is too high for the two stage pre amp. Note the anode of V1a is connected directly to the control grid of V2 via a 500pF and 100pF capacitor, (some call the 100pF a 'bright' capacitor). I would scope the anode of V2b and see what is happening...

Correct, Coupling capacitors are as you suggest.The 33k is a resistor. The Decoupling capacitors are circled in white Hope that helps.

Class A. Think of A = always; That means 'always conducting'.

If it is not a valve causing this common issue, check for ceramic capacitors that have gone microphonic. Tap each component gently with a biro or plastic rod to check if it rings. Edit: More info added.