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I would suggest picking out some lumber you find pretty and chambering the body. Also, torrefied woods can often be ever so slightly lighter than non-torrefied woods (at least in my experience)

You essentially have 3 options when using a wrap-around bridge or TOM on a fender formatted guitar: 1) easiest is to shim the heel end of the neck pocket to get the required angle 2) or you can route the appropriate angle into the neck pocket 3) or you can route a recess in the body for the...

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When you do your top glue up, just avoiding putting excess glue near those cavities so you don't get much squeeze out in the cavities. What I typically do is just route the wire channel to the depth of the pickup cavities, with consideration to your top thickness. That way once your top is...

I prefer double sided tape, mostly for the speed and convenience, and I don't have to worry about getting CA on my workpiece. I use spectape or the stuff from Philly Luthier supply - the stuff you can tear with your hands

@Peegoo do you find that just with their gold paper? I use Mirka's Abranet abrasive a lot and never had that issue. I've also been using their fairly new Galaxy abrasive, and found it to be pretty good stuff. Whenever I get to needing to buy more, I'll be giving some Cubitron a try

Big fan of your work and hugely admire your approach to building George!

I've used Potvin templates and they're pretty good and well regarded. He made a Tele set with P90s for me before and it turned out good.

Scott, that's the first time I've ever seen a gold spoke wheel nut! Thanks for sharing. I'll come to some elegant solution eventually 🙂 I do love the look of your wood mounted pickup btw!

The spoke wheel is removable, and has a female end. So the male part on the truss rod goes just a hair shy of the heel end. I wouldn't be able to countersink the spoke nut at this point unfortunately. Although it's a feature I wanted to maintain from the original so I'm not gonna modify that end...

After grain filling the top, I put on my last template, which will be used for the pickup cavities, neck pocket, and control layout. I starting with routing the pickup cavities and neck pocket, and then marked where I need to drill for the control pots and blade switch: Then routed the little...

At this point, I sanded out all the router marks from the sides of the body. So when I run my round over and binding but, it'll have a perfect surface to reference. I also used a random orbital sander to remove all the drum sander scratches before I got to routing. Went with a 1/4" round over...

Here's the body right out of the clamps: I got a bit closer to the perimeter line with the bandsaw, and then closer with the ROSS. Stuck on my template, and routed flush. I also marked out and drilled for the string and bridge holes. However, I forgot to change the drill bit when switching...

This mahogany is quite heavy and requires considerable weight relief. So I made a chambering template for that out of 3/4" MDF: Started hogging away with the drill press, and finished with the router. In total, removed about 2.25 lbs. I left the floor to a thickness just shy of 3/16" I...

Sort of. With a 2 point, the posts themselves don't secure the bridge to the body. They act as a fixation point for the bridge to be balanced between the string tension and springs in the tremolo cavity. With a 6 point, the screws do physically attach the bridge to the body, although they don't...

Looks like everyone is starting to post their Brotherhood Builds, and I've recently started mine, so I better get to posting! For a little context, I'm particular towards the vintage instruments, but there's been a couple modern shapes that I've fancied - specifically, the EBMM Valentine. The...

As you alluded to finding, yes there are a lot of variations when it comes to start trems. The main 5 things you want to look into are: string spacing, 2 vs. 6 point, type of saddle, type/material of trem block, and pop-in or screw-in trem arm. The only word of caution to the vintage Gotoh one...

A little bit of CA glue or epoxy to secure the spoke nut will be just fine. It won't impact the performance of the truss rod. And if you ever need to remove it, for whatever reason, you can heat the area up with a soldering iron. It's also possible you may not find any rattle once all installed...

Generally speaking, anything Whiteside is good.

Got a new router table recently and so far I am in love with it. Eventually I'll just need to install a dust box underneath the table. After doing a few test routes with it, I put some neck blanks through it. I'll be using the tele neck on the right to finish up my current build with the maple...

Looks like it was rough before it got finished. Not great QC. Yeah, as Peegoo said, you can't fix that at least without sanding those areas smooth.

Eric, in your experience how does the em7000 compare to the 6000?

For Crystalac Brite-Tone, a 1.0 mm tip would be ideal. I use a 0.8mm tip with flow control on my gun (lvlp) wide open (I don't have a 1.0mm). You can get away with a larger tip, but get some practice in, because you may risk getting runs. As well with this stuff, you really want to ensure you're...

A couple tips here not mentioned that I utilize - after starting the 7/8" hole with the forstner, I switch over to a 1/2" brad bit, as that drills much more efficiently. Once that's bored thru, I'll switch back to the 7/8" forstner to finish off. Also, go slowly once you're approaching the...

Fantastic work. Thanks for documenting and sharing. Looking forward to seeing this in the final build!