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Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by micpoc, May 8, 2015.
Is it a modified shellac that has different properties, or is it simply a pre-mixed shellac?
It's different from what we might mix our selves but it is really a pre-mixed shellac. It uses several different type of alcohol.
Hm. So, no real advantage to using ZSC as a sealer than freshly-made shellac (which I already have)? It isn't more 'sandable', is it?
I started to mix my own recently, I didn't find any difference in sanding. I just liked it for ease of use.
Cool. I was just curious if it built up faster, dried slower, sanded better… anything like that. I wonder what the benefit of using different alcohols is.
I think they use the different alcohols for shelf life / sustainability. I usually use it for my tints so I thin it even further w/ store bought denatured alcohol. It make a great direct to wood spray stain that way, almost washcoat like.
I am using it right now, as we speak.
I didn't want to use wipe on poly on the replacement pinecaster body.
Got a nice PREDRILLED one this time, it's for the Esquire thing.
I have no idea what's going to happen, but I just put the first coat on with a microfiber cloth, and the wood just soaked it up like a sponge.
I did put some minwax stain sealer on first, though, sanded with 220, wiped on a thin coat of pine colored stain. Grain just jumped out, so I stopped right there.
I immediately went for it, as the stain soaked in and was dry to the touch. I guess I waited about an hour.
Will this stuff yellow/darken a bit?
How many coats should I put on?
I want it as resonant as possible, just enough to keep moisture from getting to it.
Oops-its zinzer bullseye,not sealcoat
I need new glasses.
I found this stuff in the barn.
It said "shellac" on it, what do I know, I'm an idiot.
It DOES say you can put it on wood.
What am I supposed to do with it?
It's already on there, 1 thin coat, with a microfiber cloth.
Do I put on some more, then coat it with true-oil(got lotsa that). or danish oil(got a bunch of that, too)? I also have a bunch of pickled finish, but I didn't like the look of it on one of the buildings(1840's restoration) here.
All I know is poly kills the tone, and I am out of violin varnish.
Am I building it up to the top of the woodgrain?
I am determined not to screw this one up, all the holes were predrilled, and I have to have this thing running for shows next week.
Get some scrap wood and treat that the way the guitar body was done. Then draw lines across the scrap and experiment with true-oil one side of the line and danish oil the other. Hop scotch tiles with sections that are two coats, three coats, etc. Pick the one you like best. That is the safest way.
If you are pressed for time leading into a gig. Assemble the guitar as is or with another minimal safety coat and play it - the finish you have will protect it from most things. Then take it apart when you get the down time, clean it, light sand if necessary, and continue finishing it.
Shellac is one of the oldest finishes known to man. Millions of instruments have lived very long, resonant lives with nothing more than a shellac finish on them. That said, shellac is susceptible to damage from alcohol (like drinks, beer, etc.), and will discolor from water. It will provide adequate protection and dry very fast allowing you to put multiple coats on in advance of your gigs next week. Multiple coats will amber the look a bit. After you get back, IF you've used a dewaxed shellac, Minwax gloss or satin lacquer aerosol spray makes a nice, and if applied carefully, thin, and more protective coat, which can then be buffed to as much shine as you wish. Personally, I would not put an oil finish over shellac.
I think jvin's advice is spot-on.
yes, in answer to op's original question…of course you'd be better off with your own fresh mixture
but as far as zinser-
their seal coat is different & the better/correct cut…you could apply with oil for a french polish
their branded shellac is heavier cut & has all sorts of additives
imho, the seal coat is only "pre-mixed" shellac way to go..esp for guitars
just get a fresh can….& there's info on web on how to determine that as well..google it
Gonna take y'alls advice and go for it.
I put a 3rd coat on with a humongo 4 inch paintbrush.....
I knocked it down a bit with some 240 grit on one of those pointy vibrosander things. I can always go back later, as long as I don't clean fish on it or anything.
Unfortunately, the NECK SCREW HOLES DIDN'T LINE UP.
It's a MIM Esquire neck, and I really don't want to plug and redrill, as it would make it a dedicated neck for just this body.
I have a few others, but I got the pickguard, and all of the stuff to do the wacky wiring with it. It says Esquire on it. That makes it better.
That's a 6 dollar generic prewired plate, just to see what it will look like. I have to wire the controls tomorrow, got the Oak Grizzly 3 way, and I have all the proper wire, Old Russian PIO caps, copper tape, CTS pots, etc.
Brass bridge, SUPER TWANG ALNICO V pickup (hey, with a name like that how can you go wrong?) so I can pretend I'm Roy Buchanan.
All I need now is a raccoon tail and a mud flap, and I'm set.