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yet another headstock decal thread...maybe different though

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by mstan72, May 10, 2018.

  1. mstan72

    mstan72 TDPRI Member

    Age:
    46
    34
    Feb 7, 2018
    Arkansas
    I've about made myself insane with the waterslide decal methods...no matter what I do, how long I wait between spraying lacquer and sanding before next coat, that darned reveal line around the edge still shows up!

    I've used rattlecan lacquer, brushed on fingernail polish clear, airbrushed nail polish clear, did the adhesive promoting/glue in water/white vinegar feather edging...

    got to thinking...has anyone on here tried silk screening their logo? Iron-on/heat transfer logo?

    Tried doing a search for those methods on here but nothing showed up, might be my lack of skillz in the search function.
     
    2blue2 likes this.

  2. Muzikp

    Muzikp Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

    Nov 5, 2010
    Sacramento
    RogerC silkscreens his, looks good.

    It can take forever to bury the edge, I just mist on coats of lacquer over several days until it's buried. I probably lightly wet sand with 400 grit every 5 coats or so. It can take a lot of coats to fully bury.

    Apply water slide

    [​IMG]

    Spend several days burying the edge with mist coats and heavy wet coats.

    [​IMG]

    Wet sand and polish

    [​IMG]

    Good luck!
     
    mstan72 likes this.

  3. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity Vendor Member

    Age:
    72
    May 1, 2003
    Jacksonville, FL
    I use warterslide decals... I never have the edge lines you mention...

    of course, I don't use rattle can lacquers... they're pretty much the worst...

    but here's how I do it... I apply the tint on the neck.. then a coat of clear... I apply the waterslide... let the residual moisture dry for a few hours.. then apply about 4 coats with a real spray gun, spraying real lacquer.. let it dry a couple of days.. then sand .. knocking down the differences due to the presence of the decal... then add another handful of coats of lacquer... let it dry a few days... then wet sand and polish... no lines..

    Guys, rattle can anything should be the last resort for your guitar, unless you're just plain mad at it...:p

    rk
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2018

  4. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

    Mar 27, 2012
    Calgary, Alberta
    Never a problem here either. Maybe 3 or 4 mist and wet coats over the decal with a spray gun. I couldn't imagine finishing a guitar with rattle cans but some don't have the space or $ for a spray rig I guess.
     
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  5. RogerC

    RogerC Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

    Mar 30, 2011
    Oklamerica
    Yep, I screen my logos. The downside is that doing multiple colors is pretty difficult. But since I just use a single color, it works well for me.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2018

  6. reddy2300

    reddy2300 Tele-Meister

    Age:
    49
    167
    Aug 25, 2017
    Dublin, Ohio
    I have to respectfully disagree with these statements. I spray Duplicolor automotive paint from aerosol cans all the time. Finished several Guitar bodies with it. I have had great results. I grew up working in a body shop and learning how paint works. It's all about the prep work before a drop of paint is sprayed. And a bunch of wet sanding (lacquer) after the paint has dried. As long as the material is reasonable quality, you'll have great results.

    I think that even the aerosol lacquers that we can buy today are probably better and more consistent than the products the big guitar manufacturers were using 70 years ago. (Which was lacquer car paint, btw.)

    To the O.P., I agree that you likely need to add more coats of clear. I have the same "issue". and the only solution is more cow...I mean coats.
     

  7. mistermikev

    mistermikev Tele-Meister

    Age:
    44
    296
    Feb 20, 2018
    phoenix
    I do a lot of waterslide on pedals and logos using krylon/rustoleum/poly... it has been my experience that there are a couple keys to getting very little lines(might help?)...
    1) clear until you get a smooth wet sanded surface. this saves a lot of trouble later on and keeps from burning through when you wetsand later
    2) spray your decal very light. I like to use a brand new can for this and wait 12-24hrs between coats and spray max 4 times.
    3) I slide the decal around a lot on the orig paper to try and accumulate glue... this prevents edges from raising
    4) after it's applied I wait 12-24hrs and apply micro sol, then wait another 2hrs and apply again. this softens the decal and makes the edges less apparent.
    edit: forgot to mention... if doing a matte finish... I found it literally impossible to do the initial coats on the decal using matte. bubbles every time... so I'd do gloss then apply then matte over it. Now that I've learned a bit more... I won't use matte at all. I would just use gloss all the way and then just not shine it up to gloss - so I guess more of a flat than matte.







    I have been wanting to try silk screen for a while for silver/gold/white applications. is it hard to make the screen?
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2018
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  8. RogerC

    RogerC Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

    Mar 30, 2011
    Oklamerica
    It wasn't hard at all. My full-time work place has a full custom shop, including a screen print facility, and the shop manager made it for me :D.

    Honestly, I think if you approached a screen print shop and told them what you needed, they might help you out for a fee.
     
    mstan72 likes this.

  9. cabra velha

    cabra velha Tele-Afflicted Platinum Supporter

    Jan 21, 2016
    estados unidos
    It takes a lot of patience with rattlecan, and trying to do it with poly is my worst experience (although I finally succeeded).

    Even with lacquer (such as it is in rattlecans) count on an entire can devoted to just this and maybe 2+ weeks of spray-cure-wetsand every 4 or 5 coats.
     
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  10. mistermikev

    mistermikev Tele-Meister

    Age:
    44
    296
    Feb 20, 2018
    phoenix
    or if I could just get your manager to... jk.

    Unfortunately I never do the same design twice so really would want to diy this. I know it's possible w/o much equip... will have to look around for some threads. Looks great btw!
     
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  11. RogerC

    RogerC Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

    Mar 30, 2011
    Oklamerica
    There are a few tutorials on Youtube on how to make the screens. Here's one I found with a quick search.

     
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  12. mstan72

    mstan72 TDPRI Member

    Age:
    46
    34
    Feb 7, 2018
    Arkansas
    Somewhere in the carport I have a gravity feed HVLP gun I used to spray both base/clear on old cars...might have to give this a try.

    Was actually pondering doing a candy root beer metalflake on the next build...haven't done a REAL old school candy job since my auto body classes back in 2000...
     

  13. mstan72

    mstan72 TDPRI Member

    Age:
    46
    34
    Feb 7, 2018
    Arkansas
    that looks awesome...and I'm diggin' the GMC hydramatic emblem in this last photo.

    ...trying to refrain from going into certain '58 GMC parts I need to make a 316 Poncho engine mate to a normal GM manual trans and the to drop the whole thing in a (shudder) FORD...

    I do believe I'm going to acquire the materials and try this method on some scrap wood, I haven't done screen printing since high school art class, it was a larger design and wasn't so critical to get the successive stencils lined up perfectly. My logo is black except for the S that is supposed to be rope...I suppose the parts that are rope colored can just remain blank with the wood showing through, should look alright.

    Really like the cowboycaster on your page...but I can't pick a favorite, too many things I like about all of them.
     

  14. mstan72

    mstan72 TDPRI Member

    Age:
    46
    34
    Feb 7, 2018
    Arkansas
    LoL that skit still makes me laugh...
     
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  15. Festus_Hagen

    Festus_Hagen Tele-Meister

    Age:
    52
    231
    Jul 6, 2016
    Jeff City, Mo.
    I use waterslides and like was already said, you need to build it up and wet sand every 5-6 times you spray.
     

    Attached Files:

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  16. Chordophonic

    Chordophonic Tele-Meister

    254
    Oct 4, 2013
    Isle of Wight UK
    I own an Original 50's model Fender Strat, I think if you drove a car over the headstock you would feel a bump on the edge of the headstock decal!....The nitro is really thin and it bothers me not at all, on my partscaster builds I give a couple of coats of lacquer to seal the decal and call it good...for me, lifes too short for me to be applying coat after coat for days.....I understand why folk like the glassy smooth look, but I really just don't care....
     
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  17. crazy_aussie

    crazy_aussie Tele-Meister

    114
    Mar 9, 2011
    Adelaide
    I don't have a spray outfit so I have to use rattle cans. +1 on the Duplicolor product, its works great for me but does take some time. I always shoot 3 colour coats to ensure a consistent deep colour then leave for 48 hours before starting with the clear. I spray light coats, ensuring an even coverage and allow 48 hours between each coat then wet sand with 600 grit every 2-3 coats. When I've got 8 or so coats on I leave it for 10-14 days before sanding with 2000g and then polish. Comes up like a mirror!
     
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  18. dogmeat

    dogmeat Tele-Holic

    Age:
    67
    580
    Oct 12, 2017
    Alaska
    I have also done a few silkscreens too. its a more work than it looks. not hard, but work. heres the latest .. an amp based on the Vibroverb I built last year
     

    Attached Files:

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  19. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Friend of Leo's Gold Supporter

    Age:
    70
    Dec 31, 2009
    Queensland Australia
    I've sort of solved the decal problem ............sort of..........I had an ink stamp made. Haven't used it on a build yet but that's in the near future.

    DC
     
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  20. TRexF16

    TRexF16 Friend of Leo's

    Apr 4, 2011
    Tucson
    To the OP that is a very thick looking waterslide decal paper in your first photo. What type and brand of decal paper are you using? I have been using the clear laser-jet waterslide paper from "world of papers" on eBay and it is quite thin and very suitable - buries well and quickly in the lacquer. I previously used some ink-jet paper from some major brand in the US and it was most unsuitable.

    Cheers,
    Rex
     
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