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Yet another grain fill thread.

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by Colt W. Knight, Feb 15, 2012.

  1. jkingma

    jkingma Super Moderator Staff Member

    Admin Post
    I've heard of a number of people using drywall compound for grain filler, but I've never done it myself. It sounds easy to tint... easy to apply... and easy to sand. This is just from what I've heard... no first hand experience.
     

  2. Cquinn

    Cquinn TDPRI Member

    11
    Jun 29, 2015
    NY
    Sorry to Resurrect this but would I be able to use an oil based wood dye instead of RIT dye in order to color just the grain?
     

  3. AznGuitarist31

    AznGuitarist31 TDPRI Member

    Age:
    30
    18
    Jan 30, 2018
    Rochester, NY
    And I am resurrecting this thread 3 years later. I've never used grain filler before and I have seen people using it on most of the transparent finishes. If I was doing something like this:

    https://www.interstatemusic.com/984...wood-Fingerboard-Slick-Silver-0310600581.aspx

    Would I need the filler? So far I have sanded the body down to 400. And now have primer on it which I am also sanding to 400.

    After that it will be paint, then poly clear.
     

  4. It depends on the wood species being used. If species like ash or oak you bet. If something like cherry not really.

    If it is perfectly smooth now when you hold it up to the light or better the sun you dont need grain filler.

    Eric
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2018

  5. AznGuitarist31

    AznGuitarist31 TDPRI Member

    Age:
    30
    18
    Jan 30, 2018
    Rochester, NY
    Thanks, I primed it and it is smooth. I can see the grain in like one or 2 spots if looking very closely. I think it's alder. Specifically this one: https://www.daisyrock.com/products/shaped-guitars/star/star

    It says "Select Wood" what ever that means. I did some looking and it looks like alder. If not probably agthis
     

  6. Silverface

    Silverface Poster Extraordinaire Platinum Supporter

    Age:
    66
    Mar 2, 2003
    Lawndale CA
    FWIW for the last 45 years I have used either pumice with various solvent-based carriers or a packaged material - for the last 15 years or so Mohawk's paste wood filler & Mohawk solvent.

    Personally I would never use drywall mud/joint compound/plasters etc. From a professional standpoint it's bad practice to allow water to soak into bare wood as part of a finishing process. While many amateurs use it I don't know any professional finishers that would under any circumstances. The only reason to is reduced cost and lack of solvent fumes.

    There are zero technical advantages in the finished product. It may look just fine, but I've seen far too many long-term failures (popping, shrinkage, blistering, discoloration) to recommend it.

    I use water on bare wood in only very light applications to raise the grain for subsequent sanding.
     

  7. If it is alder it generally does not need filling. If no grain is visible there is no grain to fill. Many primers act as light fillers as well. I would block sand those areas where you see a slight bit of grain and if it is gone after move to finish. If it rubs through scuff sand it all, put on another coat of primer & roll with it after you make sure no grain is visible. And most importantly, have fun.

    Eric
     
    DrASATele likes this.

  8. DrASATele

    DrASATele Poster Extraordinaire

    Jul 6, 2012
    North of Boston
    Aqua Coat is a clear water based filler that can be tinted. IMHO it beats the Behlen's stuff hands down. I like timber mate for non clear applications.

    As the others have said, if Alder, scuff and re-prime that sound get you to the flat surface you need for that look.
     
    eallen likes this.

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