Wood blocks to hold chassis?

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by gigante, Apr 23, 2019.

  1. gigante

    gigante TDPRI Member

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    I'm working on an old version of the p1 from ax84.com, and I started it long ago .I didn't know what I was doing when I started and I probably still don't. The amp works, so that's a start but now I'm on to the cab. I built the chassis to hang vertically from the top of the combo cab but didn't plan for fasteners.

    I was wondering about capturing the chassis in place with some wood blocks glued and screwed to the inside of the box. The chassis would be then held in place by the back cover. Is this a terrible idea? 20190423_171543.jpg
     
  2. wtk0315

    wtk0315 Tele-Holic

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    Does your chassis have sides or is it a "c" shape.

    Either way, if a "c" shape, make a block that will lap your chassis so you can screw it in. If your chassis is a box just drill for two bolts through the wood block into the side of the chassis.

    Naysayers on here might tell you not to, but there are 60s amps built with "c" shaped chassis with wood on the sides. I don't see a problem, I was planning on something similar on my next amp build.
     
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  3. 24 track

    24 track Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    try something like this ,it took 30 min to build and cost the price of the drawer glide

    P1011223.JPG P1011401.JPG
     
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  4. gigante

    gigante TDPRI Member

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    Chassis has sides. It isn't full width. I guess I could go reinforce with wood, then add bolts..

    If I understand this is for working on the amp, not mounting permanently??
     
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  5. 24 track

    24 track Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    yes if you look at the second pic carefully there is a set of pins to set the amp on and to hold it in place

    P1011403.JPG
     
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  6. 24 track

    24 track Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    question : are looking to make a cabnet for your amp? or are looking to service the amp? ,
    my chassis is designed to service the amps and is expandable to accomodate many different sizes of amp

    My bad , i thought you were looking at a chassis to hold the amp while servicing it , have you considered maybe some aluminum angle matterial to mount on the sides of your cab that could be used to hold the amp in place? solidly
     
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  7. gigante

    gigante TDPRI Member

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    No worries. I could rivet some sort of bracket on there That would probably be my best bet. Thanks.
     
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  8. keedba65

    keedba65 Tele-Meister Gold Supporter

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    From your picture, it looks like you have a control cutout on the top of the cabinet and the chassis overlaps that by about 1 to 1-1/2 inches. What Fender did was to drill slots into the control face (side with controls on it) along the sides, leaving clearance for the nuts, and used #10 machine screws with Keps nuts to hold the chassis up. You can put the screws down into the chassis and attach the Keps nuts to hold onto it while adjusting the position, relative to the back cover, in the slots and then tighten up against the top. The Fender slots were about 3/4" long and sized for a #10 or #12 machine screw.

    Marshall attached the chassis to the back cover and then attached that to the cabinet (what you were asking about). If you choose to do this, I would recommend attaching aluminum angle material as "24 track" suggested. I would look around the internet for a Marshall 1974X kit with instructions so you can see how they do it (Tube Depot has one).

    having said all this, I think the Fender method would be the easiest to do as all you need to do is drill some holes. The Marshall provides a bit more support.
     
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  9. gigante

    gigante TDPRI Member

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    The problem is I don't believe I've left enough room on the sides of control side. I didn't really plan ahead.

    Not quite what I was talking about, but I considered this option as well. I didn't know Marshall did it this way.

    I meant smaller blocks holding the chassis to the cab, so that the chassis would have no actual connect to the cab, but held inside the blocks and back. Does that make sense? I probably need to add a diagram.

    Thanks for the options.
     
  10. BobSmith

    BobSmith TDPRI Member

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    I found a 2x10 leftover board from my brother’s house remodeling. I cut it into 3 pieces and added a 2x2 at the inside base for support. Sanded, stained and lacquered. I added rubber feet and loop side of velcro to the sides for cushion. The thing is sturdy as hell. I can do push-ups on it.

    Depending on the amp chassis side, I remove 3 screws and adjust the side for the chassis length, rescrew and back in ‘biz.
    9694CD93-B186-456A-AA76-F4951B0A5E82.jpeg DDBF6D4F-230D-4DC3-AA86-29BBED83DB61.jpeg
     
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  11. BobSmith

    BobSmith TDPRI Member

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    Sorry, misunderstood OP question...
     
  12. radiocaster

    radiocaster Friend of Leo's

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    I don't think one picture from a non-critical angle is enough for anyone to understand the op.
     
  13. gigante

    gigante TDPRI Member

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    Evidently, sorry for that. When I posted originally, there was a second picture I tried to include, and from my phone I thought I did. If I could, I think it would help to delete the picture all together. I actually think titling the thread "Wood blocks to hold chassis in cab?" would have cleared it all up.
     
  14. SacDAve

    SacDAve Poster Extraordinaire

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    If you are trying to mount the chassis to the cab can you just put a screw through the chassis like other chassis are mounted. Or some other options
     

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  15. Axis29

    Axis29 Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

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    The black and silverface combo cabs use wooden blocks to temporarily hold the chassis in place. Straps on top, with bolts going down in or through the chassis to keep it tight are the final answer.

    The problem is you have to hold the chassis rather tightly in place. The best case scenario is some rattling... worst case is vibrating bad enough to mess with tubes or other components.

    I'd strongly suggest working out some method to really tighten the chassis in place.

    Goodness knows I've chased chassis rattles down and driven myself crazy...
     
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  16. corliss1

    corliss1 Friend of Leo's Platinum Supporter

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  17. bblumentritt

    bblumentritt Tele-Afflicted Platinum Supporter

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    1. Screw wood blocks onto the side of the chassis, and then drill holes in the top or side of the cab to screw into the wood block.
    OR
    2. Screw "L" brackets onto to chassis and then drill holes in the top of the cab to attach to the "L" brackets.
     
  18. keedba65

    keedba65 Tele-Meister Gold Supporter

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    I agree that a diagram would help. I would also agree with Axis29 - be sure that the chassis is securely held in place.

    I think that if you can support the chassis and wedge it between the sides and also between the back cover and stop blocks attached to the sides or top (or both) then it might work, but that also seems to be a lot of work. Why not just try it - the worst that will happen is you may need to remove the blocks and sand off the glue residue if it doesn't work.

    It may be easier to use one of SacDAves diagrams and adapt it to your build - say the one going through the chassis (left) but attached to the back cover instead of the chassis.

    Best of luck!
     
  19. Commodore 64

    Commodore 64 Friend of Leo's

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    The drawer slide is genius.

    I do what others do, remove a few screws to adjust the blocks on one side.
     
  20. SacDAve

    SacDAve Poster Extraordinaire

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    I built this works really well.
    P1050140.JPG
     
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