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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Tollehouse Twang, Oct 16, 2017.
Dang, that second one is a beauty. Got more pics?
Sorry for hijacking the thread, but how did you get that color @DrASATele?
I harvested the wood from my property a few years back. 2 years drying, then made my challenge build guitar out of it. CherryCherryCaster.
That's Beautiful Motor!
I used the same stain on both Empire Red by General Finishes. On the bright red one in the backround left side of the photo I wiped in a little bit of GF Yellow Stain in areas like the contours and the edge to make the color brighter. I did the same with GF Ebony Stain to the darker one. The burst and contours are a combo of tinted lacquer over stain. The stains are waterbased so after completely drying. I sealed then with Shellac. I needed a slightly faster schedule so I just used Zinsser Clear rattle can shellac. For the bright red one I used 2 strengths of Cherry Red clear Lacquer. Starting with the darkest I reinforced the burst using a detail gun. It made the fade of the burst much smoother in appearance. I did a clear non colored layer then I came back to the whole thing with the lighter Cherry red mix (Stew Mac Color Tone Cherry Red or Transtint) followed by more clear. For the black I used a Mixol pigment (more opaque) in Lacquer and a detail gun. Same thing mainly to darken the edge and smooth out the fade of the burst. I also used some of the lighter Cherry red lacquer mix to brighten the center of darker one. Even side by side it's tough to tell that I use the same stain on both. Toners/Shaders (tinted clear finish) and knowing how to use them really can make a finish.
Note: I sanded both bodies to 220. I raised the grain twice. First time I re-sanded by hand to 220 then 320. 2nd time I re-sanded to 320. Finally about 20 minutes before staining I took a damp cloth and wiped the bodies down. Damp not soaked. This acts as a pre-stain conditioner for the water based stains.
Is that enough detail? PM me if you need more info. Stop by our 'Finely Finished' forum too.
I use cherry wood for all kinds of things. I haven't used it for a guitar yet but would not think twice about using cherry. The one thing I like is how it darkens with time to a nice rice color. Hears a web sight with great description’s of woods http://www.wood-database.com . I use cherry for my 5E3 cabinets.
Thanks! Here are a couple of pics that feature the top -- I found a cheap 4" wide offcut of Macassar ebony and managed to get a top cap and a fretboard out of it. I did a build thread on this guitar, but all the pic are stuck in Photobucket limbo now...
Just realized also - those p90 covers are cherry!
I also made an amp cab for a Blues Jr for a TDPRI local friend, Scotty 2.
The anodized grill has since been changed to regular grill cloth and looks much better, though I don't have a photo.
Beautiful work bullfrog! sacdave!
You too crisscross that top is awesome.
I used it for the back & sides of a mandolin. Machines and finishes well. Only problem was it took 4 years to complete the mando.
Probably not the wood's fault.
OK, now that someone else put in a cabinet, I'll toss my hat in the ring for working with cherry.
I upgraded my Fender Mustang I to a handmade 10" cherry enclosure. It is also my forum avatar.
Link the the thread back in 2014:
I kind of want to do this to my Blues Jr. Was it hard to get the guts out of the original shell?
Not difficult at all. some of the screws on the back are involved, and the two on top. I used the back of the old amp for sort of a template, but made the entire cabinet more the size of a Deluxe Reverb.
I completely dig it. I guess I'm going to have to learn to do a proper dove tail, much classier than a box Thanks for the info!
I never learned to hand cut dovetails, but all the drawers I used to make called for a Porter Cable Omni-jig, so that's what I use for half blind dovetails.
I don't have a dovetail jig, so I've only ever cut them by hand. A jig would be nice for larger boxes, for sure.
DOH! thanks bullfrog I should have thought of that.
Rip - that's how my Uncle George prefers to do it but he too has a jig like the portercable for large boxes. Thanks for kind of reminding me! lol
I've made some table tops and an indoor bench top from curly cherry and it's great stuff.
I seem to recall it wanted to burn if I hesitated with the router. Doesn't need any grain-filling.
Also I would experiment with finishing because cherry wants to blotch and at the same time it's got such great figure. My compromise is that I use some type of spit-coat or conditioner (really just a thinned out sealer) before any dye stain. An alternative to conditioner and dye is just a coat of boiled linseed oil (or clear stain base from Target Coatings which is waterborne) to make the figure a little more translucent, then seal over it and start putting some color in the finish with a toner or shader coat.
And remember that it wants to darken a bit after exposure to UV light; natural cherry winds up a beautiful warm brown -- it does not have to be Queene Anne furniture red!
Cherry strat neck under way:
I'm starting a DIY tele project. Just beginning - it's going to be a thinline with a cherry top and ash body.
Here's how far this project is along at this time: