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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by guitarbuilder, Nov 26, 2011.
Does he ever sleep?
Yes, I noticed your comments on another post about binding and I largely feel the same. I know I'm going to lose a little fretboard width - and this going to be a 12! But frankly I'll only be bending semi tones at most on a 12 and always away from the edges so it shouldn't be problem.
Here is a close up of the binding material - an eBay purchase. Look for "rippled" or "grained" ivoroid binding. I purchased it in 4mm and 6mm thickness for the body and headstock. Need to be a bit careful when scraping as the two materials are slightly different hardnesses .. and it can also be a deceptive in terms of flatness. Cheers
I’m trying binding a neck for the first time.
Used a Dremel router attachment and it’s turning out OK so far. Only the transitions to the headstock will have to be chiseled out.
Binding is a hair below the fretboard but I still have to radius so it should be OK too.
Also instead of dot markers I want to try a strip of binding longitudinal to the fretboard like this. It shouldn’t feel weird right? I’m thinking that if block markers in a LP style neck work, why shouldn’t this?
Finished up another pen. These have been a huge PITA because I'm using 100 year old reclaimed douglas fir. I've been fighting blowouts at the ends (hence the segment on the end of the cap), but I've finally perfected my process and finish.
The cool thing about the segment is that it's set off with a piece of vintage plastic from 100 year old piano keys. Not sure if it's acetate or celluloid, but it sure wanted to catch fire easily while sanding things down on my belt sander .
I'm making 3 different pens: twist, roller ball, and fountain. They're going into a local high-end men's store in town.
A mandobucker in a mando
Hi MG...............You shouldn't lose any fret board width at all. What I do is make the neck and fit the fret board to it then size it to shape. Then I cut the binding channel to the width of the binding but not the full depth of the binding width, you have to take into consideration the height of the fret when seated into the fret board, (I allow about 1mm above the fully seated fret)
You can pre cut the fret board which is what I usually do (about 3/4 at a time) so you cut off 1.5mm of fret board on either side to accommodate the binding on each side. I then fret the board and trim the ends off with a dremel with a cutting disk then file those ends off with a flat file with a smooth edge on the side. (I have two such files, one has one smooth side and the other two smooth edges which is better for my decaying concentration levels) It takes a few minutes to file them to a perfect flat end to butt up to the binding.
You don't really lose any fret board width as what you cut off for the binding is replaced with the 1.5mm thick binding strip, it becomes the top of the FB as well as the wood in the FB. Rout out the plastic between the frets level to the fret board with a top bearing router bit and the a small sand & scrape exercise for a few minutes, then Bob will be a close relative of your's as well. And you will have non sprouting smooth as a baby's bum fret ends.
I use the 15mm high binding and just checked a neck I made..........top of the fret to bottom of binding channel = 9mm fret board surface at the edge to bottom of binding channel =7mm
Carvin Bel Air chassis power tube board burnt/converted to point to point 6V6
Seymour Duncan Twin Tube Blue 12AX7 mod on one channel
Mojotone Studio One amp kit troubleshoot
Officially Licensed Circuits Eclipse Valve tube clean boost pedal
And I completed repairs on my 1968 Fender Vibro Champ and mods.
Took the acoustic pup of this build and tried a Tele neck pup instead. Loving it. Fantastic chimey sound, great for bluesy and melodic stuff with a bit of bite. She really rips if I want it to, but I'm liking it for songs with a bit of an edge to them.
Don't laugh at the temporary "rosette" for the pup. It's a plumbing ring I had lying around, and was almost a perfect fit for this. I'll make a proper one when I pull this apart for finishing.
It's a full hollow body with just a bridge block in.
Hi Sergio If your going to bind the fretboard, the point for me is to make it higher than the fret ends so you can create plastic nibs on the fret ends to give you an ultra smooth playing edge, and prevent fret sprout from ripping your fingers apart. Not sure about binding for fret markers.............it might work, but a contrasting colour might look better?
11mm blackwood top.....did somebody say, 'no pickguard, rear control, no switch 'Esquire', with a psychedelic 80 year old q-sawn wandoo floorboard fretboard on a 20 year air-dried mega-dense, figured, q-sawn, dark blackwood neck'?
That does sound good......
What's up guys!?
Myself and the lady of the house are teaming up on this project...
It's now on me to make her painting playable!
Last week I got my hands on what I believe is a 1930’s French made Strad. Came in it’s original carved wood case and smells WONDERFUL! Neck needed to be reset. Somebody failed miserably at some point in the past. Good thing they used hide glue. I cleaned up the joint from all the funky leftover glue and stuck this thing back together (with hot hide glue of course). Waiting on a few things and strings now. What a lovely handcrafted instrument! I really can’t wait to hear it. A good friend of mine is a union musician and orchestra member in San Francisco. I showed this to him and he was totally impressed. Apparently these are a favorite for these orchestra people and says recently these 30’s French instruments have gained quite a bit of value. I’ll add some color to the repaired area. Totally looking forward to learning how to play it. Good thing I don’t have neighbors!
Tuned to open F#, with a mini cigarette amp mounted discretely behind it. Groovy
Wow, that's funny, I have pretty much the exact same violon somewhere in a case at my parent's house. It was my great-grandfather's, and it was quite obvious it wasn't from the 1770's - they forgot to add the last numeral to the date, so it just says 'Anno 177'. Unless my great-grandfather managed to find the oldest violin in existence, of course
I never tried to string it up, having only every used a violin to play some pseudo Ornette Coleman screetches on one of my old band's recording. I should take it to a luthier to see what he says. 1930s French made would match though, and the quality of the craft does look very similar to yours.
Source for the 15mm binding? I had ten mm here but I can’t find the bloody thing
I usually only use the cream/ivory colour which I think looks more the part anyway. Actually just ordered some 10mm. I'll have to check how much 15mm I have left tomorrow. This link should get you there I hope!
These people have a huge inventory and are very close to our place in China in Donguan city. We have a place in Chang An town which is a suburb of Donguan only a small place of about 3 million people And have had stuff couriered to me by them the day before I was to come back here, so good service so far.
Even after the amount of time I've spent in China, I am still blown away by the place. From Hong Kong to Guangzhou to me looks like one huge city but the locals seem to know where Donguan city ends and Chang An begins. All looks likes New York or Shanghai to me!!!
You should! They are finely crafted instruments made from beautiful wood that is now very old. Something I learned while researching mine...the tags were not meant to fool anybody. The reason the labels were not perfectly recreated (regarding the dates and such) was to let people know it was a copy. Mine has "Modele d'ampres" at the very top of the tag above the man's name. The recreation of the label was intended to pay homage to Stradivarius. Unlike these days where people are wearing fake Rolex's (and gold teeth) to impress others
There's some fantastic work in the last few pages. I feel a bit embarrassed about following up with this, but hey, let's inconvenience a few electrons anyway.
As 'The Fleet' has expanded, I have found it difficult to have proper homes for them all when not in use. Just sitting on shelves seems to take up an inordinate amount of room, so after a little googling, I went out and raided the scraps piles to see what I could find. The answer was some MDF, some old battening (white spruce?) and a few scraps of maple and ash. Once I'd got the lanes worked out, it was a simple case of under-cutting some scrap to make "toe catchers"
And just like that, they're all hung up out of the way and easily accessible. Lift them up about 5mm and the heel clears the rail on the bottom and you're holding your plane. Should it ever warm up enough for paint to dry, it will get painted/sealed/something. I have also wondered about having some sort of oiled felt in there to keep the soles clean and rust-free.
Finally, for some completely pointless fun, my wife bought me a letter opener because of my (bad?) habit of using the kitchen knives. It was just a flat lump of steel, so I went out to the scraps pile (again) and went all 'Forged In Fire' on it to make it comfortable to use. Sapele, some brass rod for the pins, a bit of epoxy, and then a dunk in some BLO and some old tru-oil to finish off.
Hey BullFrogBlues, I am curious about that barn wood. How will the body be stabilized so it won't continue cracking down the middle? Has the barn wood been kiln dried? Just curious 'cause I carved this body out of red oak wood that had been in dry storage for about five years. So far, it seems to be pretty stable and I always put it back in the case when done playing
Holy timber rattler Batman!
There’s one ya don’t see every day.