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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by guitarbuilder, Nov 26, 2011.
What is it?
I've been building a mortising jig...
Then I tested the jig for both edge and end cuts, for a loose tenon joint. My first mortise-and-tenon joint, ever.
The outside edge didn't line up correctly - I need to work on that. The faces are spot on, though, as long as I remember to keep the same face towards the jig for all cuts.
Well, after a kajillion attempts it's 1 down and 1 to go. 3500/3300 - 5.02k for the bridge. I don't think I'll try to make Filtertrons again...
And this is out the door tonight. A friend at church wanted a Strat in copper orange metallic and a tort guard. Going to rehearsal and give it a workout.
Can you tell me more about the problems you faced? It'd be interesting for my PU guy who never made a such one but I am intending to make him to
Funny you should ask, but I'm currently putting together ab=nother stratocaster. Bought a noname body (probably Asian Johnson or the like) from the 'bay for $40 shipped. Also from there a used Mexican big block tremolo (measured 6 point spacing to make sure) and a noname black lacquered neck $0 shipped all the way from Hong Kong (Canadian maple).
Expected to have to do some fret work, but they're all level with edges nicely rolled. Decent crown and polish as well. Putting Fender vintage "f" split shaft tuners on, 2 string trees and a black HH loaded PG I've had knocking around for a while now.
No pics at this time (well, there are but I'm posting on my tablet, sitting in bed when I should be sleeping).
The tiny bobbins, trying to wind them with enough wire, the wire coming off the bobbin while winding, but mostly the start lead breaking off and having to start over. This was my first attempt at making a humbucker style pickup and after making quite a few single coils it takes a lot to get used to.
Dude wants one... Gonna have to work for it!
Let's see your winding rig, maybe we can help.
I've swapped the bridge out on my Am Std to a three saddle, four screw toploader bridge and I've deepened the control cavity (with a chisel and patience - my router didn't reach that deep) to be able to flip the control plate. I also re-installed the original pickups after having tried the N3 noiseless pickups with S-1 switching. I found that I never used the series switch and the bridge pickup sounded a bit tame to my ears.
First, I made a drilling template using the screw holes from the old six saddle bridge and the placement of the pickup for allignment. I aligned the drilling template to the new bridge using the pickup slot and drilled the new holes (never mind the pencil markings)
I then used the drilling template to transfer the holes to the body.
I used a 14 mm (little over 1/2") chisel to take the ledge of the control cavity down to accept the switch.
Then I soldered in a new set of pots (500 kOhm) and salvaged the cap and switch (I didn't have a new one). Hooked everything up and strung it with some 11-52's. It plays beautifully now. I chose the new bridge to have a place to rest my palm on when playing and the ledge really helps. The new bridge covers all the other holes, but there is some slight discoloration where the old bridge extended past where the new one does.
Last things to do are to find some black Fender amp knobs to fit on the split shaft pots and to superglue the switch tip on (because it keeps flying off). I might also glue the string through ferules in the back on, because they might fall out if not held in by strings (I've taken them out for the moment).
You should give it a shot yourself Mete then teach him your ways. Not much to it. It's a simple operation once you have the mechanics down.
I did a 1 year internship at a place called Garth Miller Studio to get my head around professional woodshop practices. Everything is mortise and tenon there. Cabinet face frames & doors, ect. He has a slot mortising machine and it really made all of this SO easy. We would mill the tenon stock exactly how you did yours. I can say the most important part of the mortise cutting is registering the correct face on the fence as you mentioned. Your operation looks really awesome. You could even just take a small block plane and shave your tenon unit the outside edges line up. Your joint would be solid and unbreakable. We would size all the doors down after assembly on the jointer so slight misalignment at the outside edges wasn't a concern. We wanted the doors square & the bead details to line up most importantly.
I'm pretty sure I have it down now. Your limiters have to be dead on and that was part of my problem. My winds would overrun or wrap around the edge of the bobbin even though I thought they were set properly. When you find out 1000 winds later it's too late. Rob mentioned that to me when I asked him a while back. Single coils are much more forgiving and that's all I've made up 'til now and they are pretty easy compared to these. Mete, with all the great craftsmanship we've seen from you I agree with Mark. You should be winding your own. It is a lot of fun. The frustration and clown wigs go away fairly quickly.
The limiters have to be set just inside of the flatwork and there can be no wobble on the bobbin. If there is for some temporarily uncorrectable reason, the limiter naturally has to be set inside of the offending wobble.
Thanks for the kind words, and good info.
This was just my first test piece. The misalignment was me being a little too casual with workpiece setup.
It's probably not clear in the pictures, but I can switch between the edge (horizontal) and end (vertical) work holders without touching the router position or travel. I just align the new work holder so the center line of the mortise is on the jig's registration mark. Also, assuming I have multiples of each type in one session, the jig will accept a stop block clamped for side-to-side alignment of the horizontal piece. Vertical one doesn't need it.
I don't have a planer (or jointer). Even so, I found this method of making loose tenons, ripping on the TS, followed by a bit of hand planing, then the router, to be very efficient. I like the simplicity of all the main workpieces getting mortised, instead of half getting tenons. This way I don't get confused, and put the tenon on the wrong member (I have a particular tendency to do just that). And I can mess up tenons all day long, and just toss 'em, without losing a major piece of work.
EDIT: forgot to add, this plan is from Bill Hylton. It's in his great book "Woodworking with the Router", as well as here:
Made some sawdust today...
The Northern Ash body is a one piece blank that I got from Chris. It's beautiful and looks amazing when wiped down with naptha, so the top will stay natural. There will be a black binding and the back will be lightly stained...
The Maple Capped Sapele body will get the same shaping details as the ash, haven't quite worked out the finishing schedule on that yet, although it will be getting a cream binding.
Looks like a sweet duo John !
Thank you Herb!!