Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com

What's on your workbench today?

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by guitarbuilder, Nov 26, 2011.

  1. Zepfan

    Zepfan Friend of Leo's

    Nov 30, 2013
    Horn Lake, MS
    Thanks guys.
     

  2. Beats

    Beats TDPRI Member

    Age:
    28
    11
    Jul 21, 2017
    US
    Sh*t yeah it does!
     
    mux164 likes this.

  3. Beats

    Beats TDPRI Member

    Age:
    28
    11
    Jul 21, 2017
    US
    Attention: grabbed
     
    Mark Grant and Barncaster like this.

  4. Beats

    Beats TDPRI Member

    Age:
    28
    11
    Jul 21, 2017
    US
    Got a kit...
    I know I know, but I always wanted a 335 and it only cost what I made from the Tele I built for my buddy. If I do this right, it's only going to provide me with templates, more knowledge, and a whole bunch of fun. That's what its all about right? The goal is deep red finish with all black everything. 1502609202711.jpg 1502609221532.jpg
     
    richa, Zepfan and mux164 like this.

  5. mux164

    mux164 Tele-Meister

    305
    Jul 28, 2013
    australia
    Trying to post a couple of pictures, keeps telling me to sign in even though I can post a reply
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2017

  6. mux164

    mux164 Tele-Meister

    305
    Jul 28, 2013
    australia
    Love 335s
     
    Beats likes this.

  7. mux164

    mux164 Tele-Meister

    305
    Jul 28, 2013
    australia
    IMG_7692.JPG be doing pup and control routes I these fellas tomorrow, IMG_7691.JPG
    The semi hollow build is still annoying me, almost to the point that I'm pulling the neck out and chucking the body
     
    Zepfan likes this.

  8. Zepfan

    Zepfan Friend of Leo's

    Nov 30, 2013
    Horn Lake, MS
    I had one of those Japanese single coil in a humbucker housing with 2 magnets kind of pickup(has 5.75 DCR). So I removed the pickup from the HB housing and I decided to put it in a dogear P90 housing to use in my upcoming DC Tele build. Wanted a real P90 with a little more umpf, but with funds the way they are, this will do til I get something more.
     

    Attached Files:

    twr1 and Deneb like this.

  9. Meteorman

    Meteorman Tele-Holic

    584
    Dec 23, 2012
    State College PA
    the longrifle remains in progress... the end of Phase 1, construction, is finally in sight.

    Thinning out the forestock is the last major wood removal - I do this last because it creates a long fragile piece, after which I like to keep the barrel in whenever possible to prevent "accidental damage".

    [​IMG]Untitled by , on Flickr

    Then adding in the last little odds and ends, like drilling the pin holes that secure the ramrod pipes.
    Still using interim pins that are easy to remove - final pins will be cut below grade and the dimples will be filled with beeswax (later, after finishing).

    [​IMG]Untitled by , on Flickr

    [​IMG]Untitled by , on Flickr

    Decided to secure the end of the lollipop tang with a thru-bolt that threads into rear of the trigger guard.
    This uses the point-to-point jig that you are all familiar with, and tapping thru the wrist to insure threads line up correctly.

    [​IMG]Untitled by , on Flickr

    [​IMG]Untitled by , on Flickr

    [​IMG]Untitled by , on Flickr

    Remember that big blocky poured pewter nosecap that came out of the mold ? - a couple hours of quality time with files and wet/dry sandpaper and its closer to final product. mite still tweak it smaller a bit. The file marks will be cleaned up in due time.
    The outside of the muzzle octagon will also get beveled during final barrel prep.

    [​IMG]Untitled by , on Flickr

    So here's where it's at.
    Still have to make and install sights on the barrel and drill for/install the flashhole liner in the barrel.
    And make the ramrod.
    But the stock shaping is 99% complete.
    About 80% of the mass of the original wood blank has been removed.

    [​IMG]Untitled by , on Flickr

    I'll let it stew for a few days and come back and file/scape down any spots that bug me.
    Then Phase 2 begins, finishing & relicing the wood and applying the patina to the metal parts.
    I suspect most if not all of you are bored to death by this by now.
    But just like a tele project, it starts to come to life when the finish starts to go on.
    /mm
     
    RogerC, Mark Grant, richa and 12 others like this.

  10. Zepfan

    Zepfan Friend of Leo's

    Nov 30, 2013
    Horn Lake, MS
    Not bored by any means.
     

  11. NotAnotherHobby

    NotAnotherHobby Tele-Afflicted

    Oct 27, 2015
    Da' Magic Mittin'
    Today I concentrated on the D'ohcaster Mark II:

    20170813_144727.jpg

    20170813_145320.jpg

    Both body and neck after thickness planing.

    The body consists of oak, maple, Spanish cedar, white cedar, cherry, and pine remnants. I'm going to laminate a MDF top and bottom on before I start the final shaping.

    Consequently, the body smells awesome...
     
    mux164 likes this.

  12. Barncaster

    Barncaster Poster Extraordinaire

    Bored to death??? Is that a gun joke? LOL. Actually, I see your creation as historic, functional art! You can admire it on the wall, put dinner on the table with it, keep your daughter's prom date in line or make it the centerpiece for a history lesson. Most excellent! By the way, what was the traditional stock finish back in the day, aqua fortis or something similar?
    Rob
     
    R. Stratenstein likes this.

  13. Macrogats

    Macrogats Tele-Holic

    Age:
    50
    514
    May 15, 2017
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Never thought of constructing a body that way before! :p
     

  14. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

    Mar 30, 2003
    Ontario County
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2017

  15. NotAnotherHobby

    NotAnotherHobby Tele-Afflicted

    Oct 27, 2015
    Da' Magic Mittin'
    Every single "block" on there has an overlapping joint on the underside. So it't not relying on those end-grain joints to hold together (thankfully - my hand-sawing skills suck).

    I'm not all that concerned about movement. And if it starts falling apart, I'll chuck it. But...it did clear off a shelf of odds-and-ends that have been sitting in my workspace for the last 20+ years.

    And while wood does indeed based on humidity, by the time this thing gets shaped, formed (I'm going to slap some 1/4" MDF on the tops and sides), and painted, the amount of moisture penetration will be fairly small.

    And Like I said: if it falls apart I'll make another. I'm drowning in Home Depot "leftovers".
     
    mux164 likes this.

  16. Zepfan

    Zepfan Friend of Leo's

    Nov 30, 2013
    Horn Lake, MS
    MDF is heavy. If your going to do a top and bottom cap, I would get rid of some of those inner pieces. Build a Thinline.
     

  17. NotAnotherHobby

    NotAnotherHobby Tele-Afflicted

    Oct 27, 2015
    Da' Magic Mittin'
    I was considering hallowing it out. Still on the fence about that. I'll see where I'm at after I trim off the excess from the blank. I'm not all that put-off by a heavy guitar.
     

  18. Meteorman

    Meteorman Tele-Holic

    584
    Dec 23, 2012
    State College PA
    Thanks Rob.
    Aqua fortis is the old name for nitric acid.
    It is indeed a component of the traditional stain, which was made by dissolving iron (or mild steel) in nitric acid until the acidity was “used up”.
    Many still make it like that today.
    Many, like me, prefer to skip the nastiness of dealing with nitric acid in the house and use a more modern means to get to the same endpoint – ferric nitrate.
    I’ll illustrate more on this when I get to that step.
    The traditional finish over that stain was boiled linseed oil.
    BLO has lost favor with most these days, due to the application regime (once a day for a week, once a week for month, once a month for a year) and its subsequent habit of almost never getting totally dry.
    Many/most have gone to various commercially available rubbing varnishes (similar to Tru Oil).
    And urethanes are for the true heretics – a longrifle coated in thick plastic will get the skunk-eye from the devoted believers….
     
    Johanbrand and Barncaster like this.

  19. otterhound

    otterhound Poster Extraordinaire

    Dec 14, 2008
    Manheim Pa.
    My apology for no photo . i was very crunched for time . Martin accepted 166 side sets and 54 back sets . There were very few rejects . The pile of sets filled the rear part of my 2006 Focus Sedan with the rear seat folded down . I will post some pics on the next batch .
     
    Barncaster likes this.

  20. kingvox

    kingvox TDPRI Member

    30
    Mar 23, 2017
    USA
    A 50 dollar no-name bass that this guy wants to look like it came out of the Fender Custom Shop. I should've known what I was getting myself into.

    Stripped and re-shaped the entire body, pulled the string ferrules out and filled them with maple, sanded everything flush. Had to epoxy shims to the outside of the neck pocket as it was too narrow and looked bad, then shape it to match the rest of the pocket. I had to do this to several areas of the body as it just looked so bad it needed to be rebuilt and reshaped to look good.

    Then primed with white Zinsser BIN, filled and relocated *every* hardware hole in the body, including every neck pocket holes, strap button holes, bridge holes, pickup mounting screw holes, etc. as they were all misaligned and miles off...

    Lacquered a brand new unfinished neck for it, mounted tuners, aligned the neck in the pocket and drilled it out for mounting, got a bone nut started for it. At some point it banged a desk lightly from me being overtired/careless, so that was another hour of touchup with a wet paper towel and a soldering gun to steam the dent out, then airbrushing lacquer, wet sanding and buffing.

    Then I realize the original pickguard doesn't fit. It's a custom painted pickguard, which he wants me to copy the paint design on if I'm to do a new one....turns out none of the other dimensions on the guard fit either with the new neck and new pickups. So freehand designing a new pickguard from scratch out of a plywood template.

    Made my own template for the new pickups. This includes a music man pickup in the bridge position, and a small P bass pickup in the rhythm position. The body needed to be routed for the MM pickup; the pickguard for the P bass. The original P bass pickups in this thing were so much bigger that the original pickguard was even more useless as a reference.

    He wants it in a pure, non-yellowing white finish. Fortunately I found that mixing white Colortone pigment into nitro does the trick. You just can't use a clearcoat. I got a few coats on, but the wet sanding pretty much went through all of them. I have more lacquer on the way.

    So the to-do list:

    -Finish designing and cutting brand new pickguard that will fit the new neck and new pickups.

    -Figure out how to custom paint a pickguard, including what kind of primer I'll need, how I'm going to make a stencil for the design, which is a combination of swirls and stripes (I was told using contact paper would be my best bet). And then do it.

    -Touch up every perceptible imperfection in the finish on the neck

    -White nitro finish and buff for the body

    -Once all that's done, reassemble, finish cutting the bone nut, setup, and then wire everything together

    Oh yeah, and it has a Schaller bridge that's missing a single saddle screw, which is a proprietary size that I can't find a replacement for.

    Oh, and one more step:

    Remember to never take on a job like this. Ever again. Although I have two more like this for this guy that I already got started on, not knowing what I was getting myself into....

    If I EVER get a request for jobs like this again, I'm just going to send this:

     

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