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What are my clear finish options over rattlecan satin acrylic green

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by HillbillyZT, Apr 30, 2018.

  1. HillbillyZT

    HillbillyZT TDPRI Member

    5
    Apr 19, 2018
    Houston, TX
    Alright. I know I've posted a lot here recently but I've gotta go again.

    Im testing out paint on a scrap piece of my original body blank. I got this beautiful green sea glass spray paint (colormaster) that looks great.

    What should I use to seal that? There are the options of acrylic clear, waxes, polycrylic, polyurethane, all kinds of stuff. I'm ideally looking for a satin finish, not too glossy. I'm actually trying to match the sheen of an existing telecaster with a slightly different color.

    Here is an imgur album with the relevant pictures: https://imgur.com/a/4FCSIsS

    I'm using the colormaster rattle paint, I filled the grain with Wonderfil, I didn't use a primer but should have, and I tested Valspar High Gloss Lacquer to see how it looks. Again, I'm torn on gloss vs satin so I'm just trying to match the pictured guitar.

    (It's worth noting that the actual guitar may have some etchings in it that will be filled with epoxy, so a slightly heavier clear is desirable)

    Thanks!

    P.S. it's worth noting I'd really like to have a finish that fully dries or is at least playable in 2-3 weeks.
     
  2. plusorminuszero

    plusorminuszero TDPRI Member

    69
    Jan 16, 2012
    chicago
    nevermind, see bottom of this post for explanation. Original post is in brackets and applies to the Duplicolor experience....

    [I think I know that brand of paint...is that the stuff in auto parts stores?

    It has a high on the scale derivative hydrocarbon, xylene, I think. I used it one time and for simplicity’s sake I used their clear coat, over a Honda metallic green I liked. Not sure why but it took years to fully harden. Prior to this, you could dent it just by looking at it. Every time you set it against anything, it left an imprint. Eventually, after about 14 years, it is hard enough to handle light contact against things. Because it looks good, I decided to not start over. I did hit the imprinted finish with various light abrasives from time to time as to keep it normal in appearance. I am satisfied with it but it was almost 15 years before it could pass for a decent refinish.

    You might be able to use a lacquer to cover the paint, being toulene based, but I am not sure. I would test this out before possibly having to start over.

    I used their primer and was not impressed. Some of it the color flaked away with the paint and clear coat sticking to other things, but it came away at an edge spot that looks natural, along the upper bout. The grey looks nice, but I wouldn’t be overly concerned about it. Hopefully you can use a lacquer since it dries fast and hard.]

    ETA: disregard my post because I used Duplicolor, not colormaster.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2018
  3. DarkshipDan

    DarkshipDan TDPRI Member

    29
    Sep 9, 2016
    Cape Cod
    I used CrystaLac Brite Tone Instrument / Guitar Finish on my Tele build and it worked nicely.
     
    Bk50 likes this.
  4. Steve Ouimette

    Steve Ouimette Tele-Holic

    886
    Aug 17, 2012
    Scottsdale, AZ
  5. HillbillyZT

    HillbillyZT TDPRI Member

    5
    Apr 19, 2018
    Houston, TX
    They don't sell many clear coats (only nitro iirc). It's also 4 hours out lol.
     
  6. HillbillyZT

    HillbillyZT TDPRI Member

    5
    Apr 19, 2018
    Houston, TX
    Thanks for the suggestion but I am looking for more rattlecans if possible. I'll think about it though.
    Yeah this is some pretty run-of-the-mill Krylon Colormaster from Walmart.
     
  7. Steve Ouimette

    Steve Ouimette Tele-Holic

    886
    Aug 17, 2012
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Well, there go you, lol. I guess "close" in TX isn't necessarily that close. And yeah, I guess I'm just a bit hopped up on nitro lately since I'm doing a paint job with their rattle cans and loving it.

    Carry on!
     
  8. HillbillyZT

    HillbillyZT TDPRI Member

    5
    Apr 19, 2018
    Houston, TX
    Gotcha. Honestly the paint I used was a joy to spray on. Needs more primer than I used but otherwise was very smooth. I just need to get better at applying.
     
    Steve Ouimette likes this.
  9. Silverface

    Silverface Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

    Age:
    66
    Mar 2, 2003
    Lawndale CA
    Krylon? It's probably enamel. Most lacquers will attack it. Stick with Polyurethane or epoxy aerosols. They'll stick best and you'll have less chance of incompatibility - but test on scrap first.

    Enamel is the second-least durable common aerosol finish behind acrylics. Not generally the best choice as a guitar finish - they don't dry very hard and colorfastness is very poor due to the types of resin systems used.
     
  10. Finck

    Finck Tele-Afflicted

    Age:
    52
    Oct 11, 2017
    São Paulo - Brazil
    My experiences with nitrocellulose or any other solvent based clearcoats over aerosol acrylic paints have ever resulted in disasters.
    Krylon is not widely available here, but I think their rattle cans are acrylic.
    No problem if you use a solvent based clear over water based color coats, otherwise, those aren't easy to find.
    I believe that Reranch would be the best option in rattle cans, from start to finish (unfortunately, it's not available where I live...).
     
  11. DrASATele

    DrASATele Poster Extraordinaire

    Jul 6, 2012
    North of Boston
    Behlen's has a video that may be on youtube, simple low fi type of shoot, they show you how to spray and acoustic with rattle cans. They use 3 colors and lots of clear.
    Here's some of it, mixed with my experience . . . . The main things I learned were:
    When spraying, stop regularly and re-shake the can. Shorter burst of spray seem to get better results.
    Test in one spot how long you can spray before the finish starts to run. This will give you a sense of how much finish is going on with each pass.
    Warm the can before spraying in warm water. This gives the best flow, in my opinion, I find that even in the cold and dry, with a warm can, the finish will remain wet enough to level itself.
    Although it usually isn't required, scuffing with a high grit sand paper or even fine synthetic steel wool every 3rd coat made the final buffing that ,much easier as there wasn't as much wet sanding to do. (It's probably all just your own preference with the end results being awesome either way.)
     
  12. Bk50

    Bk50 TDPRI Member

    34
    May 26, 2013
    Georgia
    bmore telecaster.JPG

    Did this with Crystalac.
     
    coreytree likes this.
  13. coreytree

    coreytree Tele-Meister

    129
    Jul 5, 2012
    Washington, DC
  14. Bk50

    Bk50 TDPRI Member

    34
    May 26, 2013
    Georgia
    I will never use nitro again, it is nasty stuff. IMO
     
  15. Silverface

    Silverface Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

    Age:
    66
    Mar 2, 2003
    Lawndale CA
    And I use noting but, because it's the easiest, fastest and one of the most durable finishes.

    But it *is* "nasty stuff" and proper precautions need to be taken. However, it's just not as hard to deal with as some make it out to be.
     
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