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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by mo62987, Mar 21, 2019.
@guitarbuilder @Davecam48 i like both of those methods... will have to keep those in mind.
Wow that is a great trick!
there are a lot of things that are easy with hand planes that have been made very difficult since people don't want to....use hand planes.
But there's a learning curve.
the joint for the acoustic parts above comes to mind. We call that shooting long grain with planes, and it's probably about a minutes worth of work without a jig. lay the boards together bookmatched on a surface raised a half inch or more, lay the plane on its side and plane the joint. Check it with a straight edge to make sure it's not high centered (either straight or very verly slightly sprung) and you're done. No router bit tearout or any of that stuff.
Well I learned not to use the 3M mounting tape for templates. Worked ok until I left it on the body for a few days out in the heat in the shop. Left a lot of residue and I kinda destroyed the body trying to pry it off.
Got the residue off by rolling off with a fingertip.
Turned out ok I guess after a good sanding
Had some shop time a few days ago and got the rest of the routes cut to depth.
Forgot how dangerously thin the body is and was trying to get the perfect depth for a tele switch... this is what happens when you're being summoned back in for dinner and you try to hurry and finish. You forget how to math.
Maybe sometime i'll find some scrap 1/4" pine and cap the back to cover this up. But on to other tasks...
Got a much needed new toy for the shop. (The Jeep in the background is new too )
And free child labor
Was supposed to be doing this last night
but got distracted and made some thicker working templates instead of using the thin master templates i bought
Hopefully my next thread here will be the beginning of my first legit scratch build
"Well I learned not to use the 3M mounting tape for templates. Worked ok until I left it on the body for a few days out in the heat in the shop. Left a lot of residue and I kinda destroyed the body trying to pry it off."
acetone removes just about everything fairly harmlessly, except it will harm your brain cells if you sniff too much of it.....
Welcome to da Hole!
You are on the right track. Patience and more patience you will develop and over time you will get the tools you need. It is amazing how much one can do with hand tools and a little knowledge and skill.
Keep scouring CL, Offer up, etc. I picked up a full size band saw for less than a hundo and a large craftsman table saw for $50 over the last couple of years. Of course these tools take up space but they are great resources if you have space to keep them. Also check the flea markets and estate sales for small hand tools. Sometimes you can pick up really good old hand planes and saws for little to nothing.
All the little mistakes you are making are adding to your resources when you decide to step up to more expensive kindling.
Here is a suggestion for you, since you are a little shallow on that body depth.
Get some 1/4" maple/oak/ash/pine and cap that body. If you wanted to use some binding you can find some figured plywood sometimes as well. Use the new knowledge you acquired on book matching and put a cap on that top. Make the control cavity accessible from the back side and make a cover for that recessed into the back. Then on the top of the body you would not need a control plate and it will hide your glue lines and that knot that will drive you crazy.
you would experiment with some polymers and pour some resins in those gaps and knots....
carry on, get a really thin switch and mini pots and do an oil finish on that pine and play the tar out of it.
There are no wrong answers!!
I think you are on the right track by using what you have, and not buying a bunch of expensive power tools. Just take your time and don't hurt yourself and it will be ok.
I added some wood to the back of my 2x6 body and have never regretted it. I like the thicker body
I used a router with a planer jig, some wood clamps and yellow glue, no ROSS involved.
you know... after a very quick reconsideration, I might just finish this guy out before moving on to more expensive kindling. There's still lots of mistakes i can make in other areas.
Maybe a quick run to Lowes or HD after work for a back cap. Some cheapie hardware, neck, and pickup from amazon or ebay
what's best to fill the knots?? i think i've seen people mention Z-poxy around here, but I don't have any experience with that.
@fenderchamp what kind of wood is that?? looks a lot better than the 2x4 stud grade pine i used
enjoy, I have a friend who is doing this on some old slabs of wood he had and is making coffee tables.
No respectable dealer in my area would do that, unless you bought the lumber from them. I wouldn't either, too risky.
”Well I'm doing the rabbit hole thing...”
Perhaps it’s time to gopher the other hole?
@Preacher watching him pour the epoxy is very satisfying!
I had a shop thickness sand my glued up rosewood back and side set. It got sent through a timesaver years ago before I had a thickness sander. My buddy (about a month ago) just took a piece of curly maple plank I gave him down to be resawed into guitar tops with no problem. In fact the owner mentioned it to me the last time I was in. These were respectable shops in your area .
I'm pretty sure a business owner would discuss it and look at the wood before making a decision. Heck they sell reclaimed lumber they buy from local sources!
I'm the Zpoxy advocate around here and in my opinion it would not be the best choice for stabilizing the knots - it tends to be fairly low viscosity (ie runny). I did four pine barnwood teles a while back and stabilized the knots with plain old five minute epoxy. I did it before doing much of the routing to hold everything in place so it wouldn't blow apart.
And for what it is worth, my local lumber yard and a cabinet making friend will both thickness sand wood for me. I have also shipped wood to LMII and had them thickness it - they have me sign a waver and are kind of expensive but they will do it.
Thickness sand sure. I was referring to chucking an unknown glued up blank made by some random dude through a helical head planer. If they do it, more power to them, but I can't find one who wants to risk their knives to make 2.00
Maybe you should ask. It'll cost more than 2 dollars I suspect.
Not sure why I didn't think of that.
My wood yard planed the pine in the above pictures. The operator spent a fair amount of time with a magnet looking for odd bits of nails and stuff before shoving it in to the spinning blades.
Most of the time I'm having thin plates sanded to very thin and precise thicknesses for tops and sides of acoustic guitars. I like to bend sides at 80 thou and thats pretty critical. I don't have and don't want to buy or make my own drum or belt sanded - its worth paying the lumber yard ten bucks to do it for me.