Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com

weber 5e3 build

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by Finastbeans, Feb 26, 2011.

  1. TNO

    TNO Friend of Leo's

    Apr 25, 2003
    NC-USA
    I'll second that shielded cable does absolutely nothing to quiet a 5E3. Keep it simple.

    Separating the pre and power amp grounds is pretty important. I didn't use the brass plate on the couple of builds I did.

    If you're placing another parts order try 30-16-10 on the filter caps. Lowering the filtering on the preamp doesn't add any hum and helps the amp respond in a looser, more interesting way.

    If the bright channel is a little harsh try changing the .005 bypass cap to 47pF. That lets just enough highs around the volume pot to prevent it from sounding dull when turned down.
     

  2. Finastbeans

    Finastbeans TDPRI Member

    98
    Jan 12, 2011
    Maryland (DC area)
    - I soldered grounding lugs on the power transformer grounds and the ac power cord ground - have those connected those to one of the PT bolts.

    - Where should I make the 2 ground connections on the opposite side of the cathode bias (250R/25uF) & filter caps? Are those the "power amp grounds"? The Weber layout has those going to the brass plate - should those be connected to a separate single grounding point on the brass plate?

    - My chassis has a bolt mounted on it coming up from the bottom between the PT and the fiber board... dumb question - what is that intended for? It looks like it's there for grounding.
     

  3. Ricky D.

    Ricky D. Poster Extraordinaire

    Age:
    66
    Oct 22, 2006
    Garner, North Carolina
    I have to do this from memory, so I'll defer to anyone who has one to look at or has the doc's handy. I built it about 4 years ago. I'm in Dallas now for a while and the amp is back home along with the documentation :(.

    Looking down at the chassis with the pots at the top. There were two ground points on the brass plate near the edge closest to the board. one was near the center, and the other was at the right end below the input jacks. IIRC, I also have a ground lug on one of the PT mounting bolts.

    There's definitely one piece of shielded cable that jumps across the board, IIRC to V1. No other shielded cable.

    Sorry I'm so hazy about some of this.

    Incidently, my tone control works just fine on both channels.

    I use an old Ibanez PQL parametric EQ in front of it sometimes, which addresses the lack of a more elaborate tone stack in the amp very well. I can set it up as a steep low cut filter for anti-flub when needed, so I'm fine with the stock coupling cap values.
     

  4. big-daddy-59

    big-daddy-59 Tele-Holic

    737
    Mar 20, 2009
    Castlewood,VA
    You don't Have the Weber schematic? That's the one I'm referring to when I identify a cap or resistor by number. Go to Weber's website and download it please, so we are on the same page so to speak.
     

  5. CRMCRM

    CRMCRM TDPRI Member

    92
    Dec 14, 2010
    Stevens Point, WI
    Finastbeans (or anyone else),

    My 5e3 will be here this week. I am curious about the Dave Hunter two-stroke preamp mod that you mention at the top of the thread. I have Dave Hunter's book and was looking at that exact mod. I was curious as to why you put it on the second stage rather than the first stage.
     

  6. Finastbeans

    Finastbeans TDPRI Member

    98
    Jan 12, 2011
    Maryland (DC area)
    To be honest I decided to put it there because I found this schematic doing the research for this project:
    http://www.kilback.net/homebrewtweaks/amps/5e3/sk_5e3_schematic_r3v.gif

    I'm planning to use a 12AY7 in V1 - but either way I'm guessing that you could put it on either stage. Maybe someone who has tried it will inform us :)
     

  7. CRMCRM

    CRMCRM TDPRI Member

    92
    Dec 14, 2010
    Stevens Point, WI
    I figured that I would play around with lifting the first stage and second stage caps separately to see what happens. I would of course like to hear from the experts here.

    Going to play around with the amp stock for a while to learn the controls and get a good sense of the stock sound before I start tinkering.
     

  8. Finastbeans

    Finastbeans TDPRI Member

    98
    Jan 12, 2011
    Maryland (DC area)
    yeah - i thought about putting 2 of em in there too :)
     

  9. Finastbeans

    Finastbeans TDPRI Member

    98
    Jan 12, 2011
    Maryland (DC area)
    i looked at it awhile back but had some other one bookmarked... my bad...

    I'm still going to assert that while the whole structure is very interactive, C4 is the "bright cap" and C14 is the "treble bleed cap" for the tone control, acting on both channels. Staring at it before I wasn't seeing what was different about the bright channel. I'm replacing coupling cap C2 with a value of .02uF in order to voice the channel somewhat brighter while maintaining the stock normal channel.
     

  10. Platefire

    Platefire Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    70
    Nov 3, 2003
    North Louisiana around Many
    Here is a picture of my Scott TE-Deluxe Head that has the 5E3 circut. The only changes is that I changed the .1 coupeling caps in the preamp section both to .022 Mallory 150's. The 5E3 is famous for it's sound and if you modify it too much you have created another animal. Platefire
     

    Attached Files:


  11. Finastbeans

    Finastbeans TDPRI Member

    98
    Jan 12, 2011
    Maryland (DC area)
    nice :)
     

  12. Finastbeans

    Finastbeans TDPRI Member

    98
    Jan 12, 2011
    Maryland (DC area)

  13. samato

    samato Tele-Afflicted

    Age:
    41
    Jul 16, 2008
    Orlando, FL, USA
    Here's my recommendation for grounding. It worked well for me, not that I'm someone you should listen to but there are lots of very smart, experienced builders that like this scheme too:

    http://www.el34world.com/charts/grounds.htm

    I noticed in another thread that some of the guys here don't seem to like it much though, so...
     

  14. Platefire

    Platefire Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    70
    Nov 3, 2003
    North Louisiana around Many
    I've been using what is called Star grounding that has worked very well for me. I love a quiet amp, so that's very important to me. I've attached pixs. All the ground connections for all the preamp circuit through the first two filter caps goes to one ground lug. The last filter cap and cathode resitor/bypass cap is grounded to the power transformer lug. The heater tap wiring leads from PT are grounded with 100 Ohm resistor to ground lug on a terminal strip--all as shown in pixs---this is a 5E3 circuit.

    The main ground lug you see close to the input jack is just a wal mart 1/4" steel bolt with head on outside of chassis. Inside the chassis on the I/4" bolt first I have a star washer to dig into the chassis for good ground contact, next the the ground terminal that your ground wires attach to, next a lock washer to keep the connection tight and lastly the 1/4" nut.

    You will need get a gound connector large enough for the 1/4" bolt on one end and the wire connector section large enough in diameter to recieve all your circuit ground wires. Once you get all the ground wires in the ground lug, squeez/cremp the sleeve down on the wires to get a good mechanical connection. For soldering the ground lug it needs to be disconnected from the 1/4" bolt and chassis to get hot enough to solder all those ground connections together and get solder down in all those wires. You can bolt it down tight after soldering. Use your multimeter to check continuity from ground lug to all ground connections. This is my method. Platefire

    BTW-some of my ground wires are not visagle because they are under the board as shown on pix
     

    Attached Files:


  15. tweeddeluxe

    tweeddeluxe Tele-Afflicted

    Mar 16, 2003
    MD

    Platefire, I'm planning a build very similar to yours. What size chassis is that? 12 x 8 x 2?

    tom
     

  16. Platefire

    Platefire Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    70
    Nov 3, 2003
    North Louisiana around Many
    Hi Tom

    Thats a 2" x 8" x 16" Hammond steel. Platefire
     

  17. Finastbeans

    Finastbeans TDPRI Member

    98
    Jan 12, 2011
    Maryland (DC area)
    Status Update:
    1. cloth wire blows.
    2. got the PT, A/C, Fuse, Power, Pilot, Standby (minus OTCenterTap and B+) and heaters wired up... then i continuity tested the heaters with the meter. they seem to all be connected together and they are all... shorted to the chassis. I'm guessing that is bad.

    Pics:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     

  18. ThermionicScott

    ThermionicScott Poster Extraordinaire

    Age:
    37
    Dec 3, 2005
    SW CR IA US NA PE
    The heater winding of the PT is low-resistance, so if the CT is grounded, you're not going to see a very high value from a heater winding to ground. Try lifting the CT before measuring for shorts to ground.

    - Scott
     

  19. Platefire

    Platefire Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    70
    Nov 3, 2003
    North Louisiana around Many
    When you where installing the twisted heater wires, did you make sure the same wires where going to the same socket pins by doing continuity checks to keep them seperate. Being twisted they are easy to get mixed up if you don't keep track with continuity checks. Like one wire would need to consistanly go to all heater #9 pins and the other to pins #4 & #5 on both 12ax tubes. I always do continuity checks from tube to tube as I'm stringing heater wiring all the way from transformer through power tubes to last 12AY7 socket to keep them seperate and going to their own seperate pin numbers on each socket for each wire. Platefire
     

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