Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com

Waterslide decals question.

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by gagidlof, May 26, 2010.

  1. bob1234

    bob1234 Tele-Afflicted

    Mar 22, 2013
    Michigan



    ugh... this is a daily occurance for me.

    I actually stressed myself out reading this, because its something my wife would do hahaha
     

  2. teleweezel

    teleweezel Tele-Meister

    So how do you create a decal for a painted headstock? My first attempt is not visible.
     

  3. Billkwando

    Billkwando TDPRI Member

    79
    Jun 25, 2014
    East Coast, USA
    I know I'm bumping an old thread, but I just wanted to mention, for the sake of folks like me who find this thread through Google, that you CAN use a Sharpie to fix some small defects if you're spraying polyurethane. Google, and my own recent personal experience, confirms this. I just used a sharp tip one (looks like a needle, NOT a cone) and while it dried bluish at first, so did the printer ink on the decal before I put the protective coat on.

    Just wanted to mention this if, like me, you're looking at a can of latex paint, and then looking at a sharpie, and back. Go for the sharpie, NOT the latex (unless maybe you're shooting water based poly?)
     

  4. Hudsonduster

    Hudsonduster RIP Ad Free + Supporter

    366
    Apr 8, 2015
    Brooklyn
    Bumping all over again with a hopefully-new question: I'm looking for someone capable of doing just a WHITE decal, to go over a dark headstock. Last time I needed such a thing, only the ALPS printers were capable of this (this was in like 2006, and ALPS was discontinued & guys were searching for cartridges like diamonds!). Is it possible now?

    I'd originally thought I could use the Rothko & Frost service, but when I came down to clicking the order menus there was no choice for just white - all choices included black w/ metallic or white, &c. Got any suggestions for me?
     

  5. Hudsonduster

    Hudsonduster RIP Ad Free + Supporter

    366
    Apr 8, 2015
    Brooklyn
    Continuing with the "definitive thread" - and why not? - I'll add a couple variants that I brought over from my model car days, they worked okay for me.

    This is inkjet-printed on Testors™ Custom Decal System clear stock, #9198. Following Jon Bennet's method, I printed positive, fixed with Mohawk™ E-Z Vinyl Sealer (works for the rest of the guitar, seemed like a good idea) then reversed onto the backing paper and painted the gold from behind. On a hunch, I used Parma Faskolor™ Pearl Gold acrylic, and it worked great: looks metallic and gold enough, yet is a little translucent too. I sealed that side before wetting and applying to the headstock, laying it down with the dilute Elmers / vinegar cleanup routine prescribed by Colt W. Knight; squeezed excess liquid & bubbles out with a wide soft short-bristled artist's brush. Three hazes of lacquer and a wet coat later, everything's laying down nicely; a few more coats & wait to sand flat. If anything goes horribly wrong later, I'll get back here & say so.

    EDIT: I wish I had a laser printer! It'd make a ton of stuff easier.

    [​IMG]
     

  6. BryMelvin

    BryMelvin Tele-Afflicted

    Age:
    65
    Jan 4, 2014
    Arivaca AZ
    I use Lazertran decal paper. I also use their suggestion to apply the decal to bare wood and then set the decal into the wood with turpentine.

    I have then covered these with shellac,poly, and lacquer without any problems.
     

  7. barbrainy

    barbrainy RIP

    Mar 2, 2012
    Northampton, UK
    There's a couple of ideas I have used that might interest you.

    1) Use white decal paper - the attached image show how I used that to have white text on a black pedal enclosure (I printed black everywhere but where I wanted white text on a decal sheet then applied to black enclosure)

    2) Hand fill a printed outline on decal paper with white enamel paint, as per this:

    [​IMG]
     

    Attached Files:


  8. tvvoodoo

    tvvoodoo Tele-Afflicted

    Jun 11, 2010
    Western Canada
    One tip which has helped my success rate is a glass smooth receptor surface. Not only wet sanded but buffed out too. Helps the decal disappear
     

  9. stale facet

    stale facet TDPRI Member

    10
    Aug 7, 2014
    Massachusetts
    Sorry to bump this thread, but I've read through all these helpful tips, but still have a question.

    I, too, am using Lazertran. The transfer went fine, but the silvering/edge of the decals was an issue.

    I'm using Mixwax Wipe-On Poly (satin finish) to finish an unfinished Warmoth neck. That works great. But when adding a decal...it did not blend in.

    Spraying is less possible, because I live in an apartment and it's winter here right now.

    Any tips? I had forgotten about the white vinegar tip, so I can try that next. Any other help is appreciated.

    By the way, my current process was:
    - Sand
    - three coats Minwax, sanding in-between each layer.
    - Soak decal(s)
    - Apply decal(s).
    - three more coats Minwax, sanding in-between.
     

  10. trev333

    trev333 Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

    while were on the subject of decals...

    does anyone know if the Mustang GT stripes are painted on or is it a decal under the clear coat?....

    [​IMG]
     

  11. BryMelvin

    BryMelvin Tele-Afflicted

    Age:
    65
    Jan 4, 2014
    Arivaca AZ
    Are you putting the decal on above the poly or underneath. I've had problems with poly drying too fast for that . I seldom use poly or any quick dry varnish on top it needs to soak in the decal to hide it best. Putting the decal on bare wood, is best setting with turpentine then oil base clear varnish.
     

  12. stale facet

    stale facet TDPRI Member

    10
    Aug 7, 2014
    Massachusetts
    I put it on above the poly. I thought this would be ok, but re-reading all these threads it sounds like that won't work.

    I'm using the wipe-on poly primarily for two reasons: no real ventilation/way to spray, and trying to make it a less chemically harsh experience for that reason.

    So, a revised technique might be:

    1. Apply decal to bare wood on headstock
    2. set with turpentine
    3. oil-based varnish

    The oil-based varnish: the rest of the neck was already done with the wipe-on poly. I don't think it'd matter too much, visually, to have the different finishes. Does anyone have experience with this?

    For dissolving the decal edges, there is another way besides the varnish?

    Experiment note: I might just try doing a dry transfer of the logo. It's just black line art, so doing the transfer to the headstock and then coating may work well here. If not: hooray for sandpaper!

    Thanks BryMelvin!
     

  13. Chris S.

    Chris S. Asst. Admin Staff Member Ad Free Member

    Age:
    114
    Mar 26, 2005
    Near TELE-Town (Wash. DC)
    Admin Post
    7 year old thread.
     

  14. BryMelvin

    BryMelvin Tele-Afflicted

    Age:
    65
    Jan 4, 2014
    Arivaca AZ

    It looks like we got the management pissed by reviving this thread. You can email me through the link (album link) that shows up underneath my posts. FWIW I have had some luck with artists varnishes and fixatives putting decals over poly or sealer.
     

  15. stale facet

    stale facet TDPRI Member

    10
    Aug 7, 2014
    Massachusetts
    Sorry - I thought it'd be ok since this post called it "the 'definitive thread'". Guess not!
     

  16. dsutton24

    dsutton24 Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

    Dec 29, 2010
    Illinois
    If it was a problem, he would have closed the thread.

    The problem you're running into is that it takes a ton of finish to bury a decal. With wipe on poly it will take a lot of wiping. The other thing to think about is that poly, when layered, stays layered, so when you sand it level you're likely to see an almost wood-grained pattern in the finish from all the edges of all the layers. search 'witness lines' to see what I'm rambling about. I've never successfully buried a decal in poly, but I'd guess that you need a product that will let you apply a thick finish quickly.
     

  17. stale facet

    stale facet TDPRI Member

    10
    Aug 7, 2014
    Massachusetts
    Good point about the thread. I have read about the whiteness lines, and thought that was a separate issue from the poly.

    I understand the issue with poly now, however, is that it dries too fast.

    I don't necessarily need to use the poly. But I can't spray due to living in an apartment, and want something that is preferably non-toxic/less toxic than some of the options in this thread. I'm open to suggestions.

    The thread lives on. Care to share any of these here? Thanks.
     

IMPORTANT: Treat everyone here with respect, no matter how difficult!
No sex, drug, political, religion or hate discussion permitted here.