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Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by gagidlof, May 26, 2010.
Wait. Tru Oil can remove a waterslide?
No Tru Oil wont remove waterslide, but rubbing it can. So if you are applying the tru oil by hand to bury your decal, you want to be careful and use a light touch on that first couple of coats.
Whew. Thanks for the confirmation.
I put a coat over the Decal this AM and all seems fine so far. I'll be extra cautious.
Decal looks great thanks to JBennett!
Great site, I've learned a lot. I just installed a decal on a flamed maple neck with no issues. However, I have a custom ordered Warmoth neck coming that's Padouk with an Ebony fretboard. This wood is very dark, and it's unfinished. I like the idea of having the back of the neck be unfinished but really want a decal installed on the headstock. What would you guys do?
I actually do this fairly often.
1. I rub the back of the neck and headstock with an oil, I generally use Teak Oil. A couple light coats will dry and feel like bare wood.
2. Mask off the sides of the headstock and fretboard.
3. Apply a coat of sealer. Allow to dry, and lightly sand flat. Repeat if necessary.
4. Apply decal.
5. Bury decal in lacquer
6. Wet sand and buff.
Thanks for the response. Good videos too I had seen them on youtube before I knew about this site. For the maple neck one I'm doing--I applied the decal, let it dry for 3 days, and now I have about 5 coats of lacquer on it with an hour + of drying time between coats. The first 2 coats were real light coats. The decal was lightly sprayed with 2 coats before application. Sprayed headstock with 2 light coats of the same lacquer and wet sanded with 800 before application. Lacquer is Krylon special gloss. I can still sort of see the outline though. This decal wasn't printed inversely like your method. Do you have any suggestions to blend it better, or will it be blended by the time I put a few more coats on and sand and polish? Thanks.
Are you using Laser decal paper? Or inkjet?
Do you have to clear it?
Hey everybody, I just tried a practice (luckily) of my first time. Do you have to clear the decal after painting on the metallic? I got my decal wet for transfer and all the black ink came off? Do you spray some quick lacquer on it? With being and inverse the decal still sticks well? Thanks for the info.
Here's a good tutorial http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/logo.htm
ink jet printer ink will melt off in water, it has to be fixed with lacquer.
I have applied a lot of inverse decals, and they stay just as well as the other way around.
just went for it
so i printed reverse, and painted metallic, and did two quick coats of lacquer and bam!!!...
couldn't be happier. like the model says...this project is my numero uno. build thread here, http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/318005-danecho283s-former-challenge-build.html
Looks good danecho
Since this looks to be becoming the definitive thread on waterslidin', I'd like to add in a couple tips I've found helps a lot - via trial and error. To make your label disappear, it helps to make sure the receiving surface is a smooth as possible. like wet sanded to 2000, even scratch removed, pretty much like you were finishing it off, but of course you are still a long ways off from that.
RE: ink jetting, it is also important to print on as high resolution as you can, even if you are just printing black. There are various settings available on most printers so you might have to click around to find them. You really want that ink saturated on the substrate. If it isn't, you might have the background bleeding through a bit. Perhaps, though, you may want that. On the above where there is some bleed through. I actually was going to re-print and relay this one, but once I put it down as a test, I grew to like the effect and kept it.
How much lacquer? Just a mist coat or more? How long should it set before you work with it then?
I use to do 3 mist coats, and letc it set for a few hours
Good advice I guess. All I do is make sure there is a light coat of two of lacquer on the headstock. Cut out my decal and drop it in warm purified water and in about 12 to 15 seconds, the decal is usually loose.
At that point, I take it right from there and place it on the headstock. I follow Colt's method, but use a small piece of toilet paper folded over to smooth the decal and dry up any residual water. I have even done this over the top of a finish and never had a decal pop off or get damaged yet. They are pretty doggone durable for what they are.
I've noticed and it might be something in my process, but when I invert a decal it goes on easier, but seems to be not as clear as when I mount them right side up. By not as clear I mean that they seem to be not as transperant and the under lying color / finish always looks a shade lighter than the surrounding area.
My mist coats of lacquer weren't quite enough to keep the ink from bleeding. Even a couple more didn't work, so whammo, I layed down a wet coat on it. Super shiny professional looking, waterproof, scuff-resistant decal.
One problem: it's thick. Like vinyl thick. Twenty coats of Tru-Oil later it's still not buried completely. Of course I see it because I know it's there. OK, I'll have my wife take a look.
Me: Hon, will you look at this and see if the decal line is still visible?
Wife: What's it supposed to look like?
Me: It's not supposed to look like anything.
Wife: Then why do you want me to look for it?
Me: To see if it's visible!
Wife: You're not making any sense.
Me: Just look!!!
Wife: Stop shouting. I don't know why you ask me to look at these things. I never give you the answer you want.
Me: Do. You. See. A. Line.
Me: Thank you.
Wife: You can see the edge of the decal though. Is that what you were asking?
That's the great thing about marriage. You learn to communicate on a whole different level.
Sigh... Zuzax. Great transcript!
It's deceiving. The decal is actually buried after less coats. What happens is that the finish builds on top of the decal as well as around it...so...always looks like the decal is still higher. Stop now, let dry for several days or a week depending and then wet sand til level.