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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Jerry Lee, May 30, 2018.
Flatwounds seem appropriate for an upright inspired instrument
It certainly wouldn't be hard. It is such a simple design and I am struggling to stay with the original plans. Even with the first body I made for this one before I decided to try and stay as true to the original as possible.
So many possibilities with the simple fretless neck- longer scale, cigar box bass, various body styles.
Pretty sure this won't be my last 2 stringer.
Thank you. It did come out nice and much easier than I expected. Sort of borrowed the mininalist scroll design from the Ampeg Baby Bass.
I will probably put some strap buttons on it too.
I prefer flats on all my basses. I went with rounds on the 8 string I am building mostly because they don't make flatwound 8 string sets and I think rounds might be more what an 8 string needs.
But for this one definitely flats for the tone but also because rounds tear up fretless fingerboards.
Still trying to dig out the parts I have collected over the years. I know I have a HF router speed controller somewhere but damned if I can find it.
I found the counter and the speed control foot pedal. The motor at full is too many RPMs for the counter. The first one stripped a gear. The motor only draws .8 amps but the first foot pedal controller failed pretty quickly at full speed. It is a very basic rheostat controller so I may rework the burnt out one with heavier nichrome wire or parallel a power resistor to take some of the load and keep the top speed of the motor at a more resonable rate than 1725 RPM.
Or I could use a different motor, PWM speed controller and a digital counter. But where's the fun in that?
Harbor Freight sells a router speed controller pretty cheap that should do the job.
I know. I have one buried in my garage somewhere. I might have to admit defeat and pick up another one.
That's the way things go, can't find it when you need it, see it all the time when you don't need it.
Exactly what happened. I got sick of moving it out of my way so I put it someplace safe. So safe I may never find it again.
Routed the neck slot. Nice tight fit but only went 1/2" deep so I'll give it another pass and take off another 1/8" or so.
I also radiused the edges with a 3/8" router bit. Before I routed the neck slot.
Looking superb, it was the right decision to make the scroll headstock
Thanks. Glad I did it really ties it all together.
A little metal fab today. Brass tailpiece.
I found some button head 1/4-20 screws today and think they will make nice pole pieces for the pickup. I'll make a steel base plate and stack some suitably sizes fridge magnets or break a Strat pickup ceramic magnet to fit.
I see the doorstop
You didn't follow the plan exactly for the tail piece!
Nice job, I have no tools or knowledge for working sheet metal so I'm not sure what the tools in the picture is, for bending or cutting?
It's a throatless cutter. Beats the heck out of tin snips. Much cleaner cut and it is better at cutting curves too.
The biggest changes from the plan is the round end so that provides a better base for the door stop and holes for the strings instead of slots which is a stronger way to hold the strings. The sides were cut straight for aesthetics and also it is just easier that way.
Another variation that will come later is I am going to sand a flat section at the base so the tailpiece and the doorstop have a nice solid point of attachment. I had been considering it and after trying to put the tailpiece and peg on today it just isn't solid enough with the curved end.
Hi Jerry Lee,
I’ve done this successfully just drilling the bobbins 3/16” and inserting short (0.531”) Jazzmaster A5 rods. Really simple and effective. Your bolt configuration is even simpler. I think a ceramic bar inserted diagonally below so the bolt shafts contact opposite sides of the bar will give you the opposite polarities needed by the two poles. That and connect the bobbin lead ends together with one remaining beginning to ground and the last to hot and you will have a humbucker! The baseplate is a great idea but must be grounded. Put roughly 5000 winds on each bobbin with a judicious delta of your choosing, pot well and you are good to go! Also recommended are 500 meg pots and a .022mF cap. A treble bleed circuit wouldn’t hurt either. PM me if you need specs.
Mark Grant posted some pictures on the What's on Your Workbench thread of a Magnatone pickup he is rewinding.
This might be a good direction to take this pickup.