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Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by dunehunter, Apr 19, 2018.
By the way, did get the ratcheting band clamps...just don't have the hang of them yet.
Finally got all the cabs glued up (I'll line 'em up tomorrow and post a pic of the "family"). Decided it would be a good day to cut the baffles for all the cabs: my wife is out of the house so I could fire up the table saw again and NOT get any "boos" from the peanut gallery. That process seemed to go pretty smoothly.
Next, I'll need to figure out a way to "float" the baffles so I can get all the screws installed; I'll want to make sure I have space top/bottom/sides for the tweed fabric AND the baffle cloth. They figured into my calcs for final cutting of the baffles but now need to space them properly in the opening.
Wonder how thick a standard washer is? Think I'll go downstairs and measure one.
You could cut some (or buy) some shims.
When you set the cabinet facedown to install the speaker baffle, slide an even amount of shim in between the baffle sides and cabinet, centering it in place. Don't have to drive them in, just press lightly enough to hold it in place. Four should keep it in place well enough for you to turn the cabinet up on it's side and drill the holes for the baffle screws.
The space on my Twin's old cabinet is maybe 1/16" between grillcloth and cabinet sides. I think my Bassman Reissue is the same. It's funny, I'm used to blackface style cabinets where the grillcloth sits off of the baffle and is fastened by screws into braces on all four sides. So, when I was looking over this cabinet to see how it went together I was a bit surprised. I find it interesting that Fender went from the the TV front with the baffle surrounded on four sides, to the narrow front, with attachement at top and bottom, back to attachment on all four sides.
So, I have measured a double thickness of tweed at 0.078" or about 5/64"; I doubled this and took 5/32" off the edges of the baffle to give me sufficient clearance (as it turns out, the grill cloth thickness is virtually the same as the the tweed--I'm worried that that's too convenient. )
Are you talking about smallish triangular pieces that would be "wedged" into place to form the appropriate space? Like those little nylon shims?
That seems like a better idea all the way round than the tack I was going to take. I don't even want to describe it, it's too embarrassing LOL
BTW, thanks @Axis29 . I think I can knock out about a dozen of these in pretty short order on the table saw...
I don't know how it is where you guys are, but here in Colorado, it's hot; just can't do much down in the garage (no A/C anywhere in the house).
No, really. Followed the advice of @Axis29, picked up some shims and went to town on my two worst cabs (can't try it on my good cabs first!)
Running right about 5/64" gap. A doubled piece of speaker grill cloth OR a doubled piece of tweed run about 5/64". Of course, YMMV.
Here's a patch of tweed and a patch of grill cloth in the gap.
It's neither tight nor loose. Just about right.
And here's a bigger picture of the full cab with baffle installed.
And adding in my 5F1...
Rats! Where did the speaker hole go???
Just kidding. Once I get the baffles all trimmed up and installed, I'll take them out, cut my speaker holes, and install my speaker installation screws.
As I indicated the other day (before my internet blew up), here is the "family" of cabinets, most of which have now had the baffle fitted and installed.
On the left, starting at the bottom, 5E8A (Low-powered Twin), 5E3 (Deluxe), 6G15 (Reverb unit), 5F1 (Champ). On the right, from bottom, 5F6A (Bassman), another Deluxe (I'll mod this one), and a 5F10 Harvard.
I'm getting there.
I'm waiting for screws for the Harvard (didn't order enough); Once finished, I think I'll do the round-over with the router although--with the noise--I won't do that until my wife is out playing cards on Monday. Might actually be able to rout my baffles to accept speakers as well. I'd like to do all the router work at one time.
Thought I'd get more done today...wife was off playing Bridge this afternoon so I had the house to myself. However, I ended up installing pull out drawers in a kitchen cabinet (4 of 'em) and that ended up eating a lot of my time.
So, after the kitchen cabinet, I started in on my project. Cut a few strips of left over pine into 3/4" strips to use for cleats and cut two of them to fit the 5F1.
Then, got sidetracked and started working on laying out the speakers on the baffles. These are the results.
First, I marked the position of the fascia on the front of the baffle; not a necessary function but nice to know how the speaker lays on the baffle with respect to the fascia.
Next, I laid the speaker on the baffle and measured each side so that it was properly centered.
I traced around the speaker with a pencil just to give me an idea of where I'm going. Also, marked to position of 4 of the mounting holes on the baffle.
Next, I laid out the inside cut line and, using the mounting hole positions, layed out the center of the speaker hole.
Dang compass. Should have used trammel points. No matter, I've found what is pretty close to the center and that will suffice to get my router mounted and ready to the task of cutting this opening.
As that was not the speaker I'll use for this cab (a 5E3), I'll lay the actual one down just to make sure. I figured they were the same dimensions and they are:
And here is the same treatment for the Twin (5E8A); the speakers are going to actually be partially hidden by the fascia but I think it was like that on the originals too!
Got 4 of them done. Will do the rest tomorrow.
So...another mistake. Fortunately, this one was with pencil!
The Deluxe baffle, above is centered; the originals, not so much. Looks like from the best pic I've seen, the speaker is offset toward the left (facing the front of the cabinet) by as much as two inches. Seems to vary, but the offset takes the speaker over to about 1" from the baffle edge. It also appears that the speaker is mounted toward the very bottom of the baffle (similar to the Twin, above).
While I'm not trying to be a stickler for detail, I nonetheless figure that the Fender shop did this for a good reason...like staying out of the way of the power tubes, for example.
So, probably a good idea. No harm, no foul.
Here's a pic of an original scrounged off the net:
Dunehunter it looks like you placed it about right. I did not get a good picture of the speaker as I am too tall and the perspective is off. But for reference you look close.
Barring having the real thing, a picture, here, is worth a bunch. Thanks, @Preacher !
Here's the updated pic of one of the two 5E3 baffles with the corrected offset:
Did 'em both and then did the 5F10 and 5F6A to finish off the baffle cut patterns.
Here's what I'm doing now: Beginning the process of installing cleats. Here's the 5F1 cab with the first cleat glued in place:
Cubs/Dodgers double header on. Gotta watch some...
So, yeah, this will be a little...anal perhaps. But I did say I was going to document this all the way so here goes: Cleat installation.
First things first; I want to set my small square to the thickness of both the plywood I'm using (the Baltic Birch--as we talked about before--is not actually 1/4") plus the addition of two thicknesses of tweed. I want the back panels--finished--to fit flush in the end. And it will have a layer of tweed on the back of the panel and a layer of tweed on the cleat itself. Hence...20/64" or 5/16".
So, I fix my square, and mark one side
and then the other...
Now, I put the cleat in place, temporarily and mark the ends on the top and bottom
and confirm again with my square.
Then, apply a thin layer of glue. My guitar building instructor refers to it as using the "high-tech glue spreading device" (my finger).
Put it in place using my marks and apply the first clamp
Note that I'm confirming the thickness one last time before I really tighten down. With the glue, this piece will want to skate around a little. I want to make sure it's where I want it to be.
Then, the rest of the clamps, still confirming and reconfirming the spacing.
Its a little tippy with all that weight in the front, so that clamp in the back just holds it to the bench.
I suppose I could come back and drill and nail these cleats in place but they are not structural pieces and will bear virtually no load. The glue by itself should be sufficient--a good bond.
And here is the finished product, ready for back panels.