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Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by Tollehouse Twang, Sep 28, 2017.
Thanks again, Mat. I think I'll just apply a few more coats of Tru-Oil, and that'll be it.
Sounds like a good plan. The feel of tru-oil is great
The reason I let the finish cure so long is because I value my customers.
I will not send out a guitar that might fingerprint, be even slightly tacky or soft. I want that finish to be as solid and stable as possible. Also, as the finish dries/cures, it usually shrinks slightly. (except 2K). If any imperfections appear, I want to catch them before it gets put in a case and shipped.
OTOH, if it is a player for myself, as soon as it is dry enough to handle, I play it.
Hey guys. Just did my first wet sand. Used 1500. There are lots of swirl scratches left over, naturally.
Do these get filled in with subsequent coats of TO? Do I need to do anything before continuing to build coats?
Nah, subsequent coats should sort that out.
For future reference, in between sanding is just a gentle scuff to remove dust/nibs sat on the surface - a full wet sand isn’t necessary
Sweet, thanks UK!
Or you could just tint the tru oil slightly with pigment or linseed oil based artist's oil color. I went full monty with it on this build: http://www.tdpri.com/threads/red-hot-tele.613705/
Where in the USA can I buy a linseed oil based artist's oil tint that is close to an amber color? Thanks in advance!
I don't think there's a straight "Amber" color, but 3 parts yellow/1 part red should do it. Add sparingly and test it on some scrap pieces first. Also remember that age will darken it too, so go a bit lighter than what you want at first.
Pretty much every art supply story should have them at least in Europe. It's good to check the carrier medium stated in the tubes, currently there are some more modern paints with something other as a carrier. One brand (Fortunately pretty much the cheapest one) Winton by Winson & Cotman works well in my experience. http://www.winsornewton.com/na/shop/oil-colour/winton-oil-colour
On the link you see the color chart of this series, what to choose is a matter of taste. As these are artist's color they do mix VERY well and in predictable way if you are familiar with some color theory. So mixing your own hue is absolutely no problem.
Please note that paint/pigment extends the curing time. And it depends on hue how much more you need to wait. You can shorten that by adding some linseed oil based curing agent. Ask the clerk, they will know.
Some info and links to guide videos about the technique on another build thread of mine: http://www.tdpri.com/threads/funcaster.609638/
I'm happy to help if you have any further questions! I'm not an expert master builder, but I have some experience on this obscure approach.
Thank you Edvard and Tomasi! I'm on my way.
Switch to a coffee filter, there is no way a t-shirt is lint-free enough. Use less than you already are, don't use home depot steel wool since it usually has oil in it to keep from rusting, get the fancy liberon stuff from a woodworking store. 2000 grit wet dry lubed with mineral spirits is even better.
What kind of end result do you want? Also, how long are you waiting between coats? As many have said, and you can't say it enough, less is better (like vermouth in a martini).
FWIW the body I did recently with tru-oil was just 4 coats, wet sanded, then 2 more, cured for a month then burnished with liberon and wax for a beautiful and incredibly thin matte finish. It's best used this way I think, quick, easy, durable, bing bang boom done.
You do not need oil based tint. Any universal tinting colors will work fine.
And as mentioned, pure pigment in powder form without any carrier/solvent what so ever is compatible with everything. They are so fine though that one needs to be extra careful not to get it airborne and inhale it or otherwise get it all around while mixing in. Haven't tried any tints so I can't comment how their different solvents react. Good info from Silverface with experience about good compatibility on that.
For tinting TruOil, oil based leather dye works excellent. I've used the Fiebings brand, but as long as it's an oil based dye, I imagine other brands would work equally well.
That looks incredible! I have a question on that piece of wood. Did you fill gaps of that wood with something? Epoxy? I have some cherry thats beautifully patterned but had a lot of weather cracks. I was thinking of filling with epoxy. Curious what you did!
Man , How in the heck did you do that.. If you started with a unfinished body on that one a account of how you managed that would be very interesting..
you can see the short story with pictures here:
I just started my first ever tele build using tru oil on a 2 piece ash body. Pic enclosed. I did 2 coats of TO and the 3rd coat i used a golden oak satin stain by Minwax Polyshades so far. Didnt use any sealer. I put it on light and waited 24 hrs for each light light coat. I slightly polished it with a scotchbrite pad/3m polish pad, no steel wool. Then I used a clean rag to remove the dust etc. I'm going to do a 4th coat and see how it looks. I read that tru oil should be applied very lightly and dried at least 24 hrs a coat. I'm positive you can back to square one again on that body, with sanding etc. And if so, use the Tru Oil sparingly. Don't be disappointed, its a learning experience to us all on the forum.