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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Jupiter, Mar 17, 2016.
FWIW, that's reading 94.
Oh, I thought it was 86.
Don’t let the angle thing buffalo you. You’re gonna mock it up with bridge, tailpiece and other parts anyway, right? Nothing is permanent until you glue it (although I will admit to some wonky shimming on the rare occasion . .) Regardless of what the maths tell you, if it’s right, it’s right, or else needs some tweaking, when you dry-fit it.
Not just that, but Jup's in Japan, so that's metric.
Let's see, googling "converting metric ° to imperial °". Ok, so it's 94° celsius ...
Holy cow, Jup. You've really messed something up there. According to the calculator I found on Google, that's a 201° neck angle
No way man, I got the plans right here. It's...oh...wait a minnit...
Only another 79 pages to catch up to this year -- subscribed, for sure.
That's okay, we'll wait.
Mkay, so I'm trying to figure out how to cut the birdseye view profile of the neck. I had already roughed out the horizontal profile a while ago (like over a year ago...), so I'm not working with a trued-up block of wood. There's only one dressed face, which is the part where the FB is going to go, so I need to key off of that.
The only way I could think of to do this is to use the router table. I'll make a mdf template with the neck width and the tenon on it. I've spend most of the day plotting this out, measuring and double-checking against my plans.
It has been time-consuming, but I think it has helped me to visualize the geometry of the neck joint. I know that in fact it's not that complicated of a joint, but since I've been sort of winging it, and not necessarily doing things in the best order for a smooth workflow, I really need to double-check things to make sure I don't accidentally cut off some wood I might need later...
Things I have thought about:
Gotta remember to cut off that part of the tenon that fills up the PU cavity before I glue the neck in; I have NO way to do it afterwards (routing will NOT be possible).
I'm very concerned about getting the mortise route snug and straight; I'll have to spend a long time messing around on that jig.
The "throat" of the body (the part where the heel of the neck meets the body) is not cut to length yet, because I might need extra length there due to my PDF plan not printing out precisely (it's a long boring story I mentioned back 20 pages or so); need to think out how that might affect bridge placement, etc.
If I use a template to route the tenon, I'll still need to hand cut the inside corners. Also, since I don't have very long pattern-following bits, I'll have to do a fair bit of hand cutting elsewhere as well.
I need to find a way to tilt my template 4 degrees when I get to the tenon part.
You're too kind!
So I'm making a template for the top-view outline of the neck. To get the sides perfectly straight, I'm going to route the template against a piece of high-precision extruded aluminum.
Problem is, my routing station is out here...
That snow has been hanging around the better part of a week. Not arctic conditions, of course, but still, it's kinda cold to be goofing around outside...
Got the sides done, and then set up to do the tenon.
Easy Peasy, except that of course, the router can't get the inside corners.
I started to chisel em, then quit because the same thing's gonna happen when I do the neck itself. Not much looking forward to trying to chisel perfectly straight, true faces at those points, but it's pretty much an unavoidable step at some point down the line.
So the next plan is to stick that template onto the top of the neck, flip it over, and use the router table to get the sides of the neck and tenon into shape.
The outline is about 1mm wide; just being conservative. I'll file it when I do the back contour. I made the tenon a coupla hairs wider than spec too, just in case something goes bad when I do the mortise in the body.
I don't have any bits long enough to get to the bottom of the tenon, so I'll be doing that part by hand too. Running out of daylight now, though, so I guess that's it for this weekend. I'm looking at gluing the headstock face on, but I don't think I'll mess with it until I get the neck shape cut, so as to avoid work-damaging that part any sooner than necessary. I'll do it before gluing the FB on, though.
But it’s only a little bit of snow - - -
Seriously, this is getting real, now.
It has been a pretty boring stretch for the last, I dunno, year or so. There were plenty of chills thrills and spills when I was putting the body together, but most of what I've been doing since the Fall would fit in one reasonable post...
But now that I've started moving again, I'm trying to keep the momentum going! Routing the mortise is gonna take some jigging to get the angle right, and that means a lot of time setting up outside, so it might not happen until March (I'm on vacation for two weeks then), but that oughta be kinda interesting.
Sorry for repeating if this has been asked already, but what are you going to do for a case?! Got any in mind?
By the time this is finished, guitar cases will be obsolete. A tiny module slipped inside the body will generate a force-Field, which is waterproof, shockproof and temperature/humidity controlled. It will also levitate and follow its owner without any effort or exertion by the owner, and will not be able to be moved anywhere the owner does not go, thus providing perfect theft protection.
Hopefully, there will be a Microwave based "Shrink-a-Dink" system that will make the guitar pocket sized.
I need a patent attorney immediately!
Let's think this through; Shrink-a-Dinks were not reversible....
No need for more Christmas ornaments. Need more guitars. Gotcha.
I had an idea like this, which was basically to replace all the the light switches in my house with guitars on wall hangers; and rig up the switches on the guitars to control the lights...
Well, it's Saturday and the weather's being somewhat cooperative, so with some trepidation, I proceeded to route the outline of the neck/tenon.
First, though there wasn't really any practical point to it, I fixed the corners of the template.
Stuck that puppy on there, along with a block to prevent me from chopping its head(stock) off.
Top-bearing router bit. Couple times around, then popped off the template.
No disasters, though as expected, I couldn't route the full depth of the neck at the heel.
Trimmed off some of the tabs with the bandsaw.
Plopping on the FB didn't reveal any miscalculations so far. Now I gotta figger out how to clean up the headstock transition and the heel/tenon area, and how to get that 94/86-degree neck angle. I'm gradually sussing out what the heel geometry should be.
Any weekend where I don't cut off some bit that shouldn't be cut off is a qualified win!
Took it to the robo-sander and got it closer, but I don't really know how I'm gonna get it perfectly flush.
And don't say "handplane!"
I guess it's only the tenon I gotta worry about, since the remaining part of the heel will end up carved anyway