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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Jupiter, Mar 17, 2016.
Yep the nibs and I like the look. It was easy compared to nibling 22 frets
Have any pics?
you can check my build thread here http://www.tdpri.com/threads/brainy-simple-memorial.656549/
Thanks Andre! Looks good so far (haven't finished yet)
Ever get so pissed off that your ears started ringing?
So I'm pressing in these frets, and I'm looking real close at the FB and I can see that the binding isn't actually flush with the bottom of the board in a couple places (so there would be a slight gap between the binding and the neck).
Also, as the frets go in, the board is developing a back bow from the compression of the tangs in the slots. I've never fretted a FB without having it already glued to the neck blank, so I'm a little worried about that, but it's a double-action truss rod, so as long as I can get it glued on, it should be okay, right?
I'm trying to put a dab of CA at the ends of the fret slots to hold em down, and it's kinda nerve wracking because I don't want the glue to cure between placing the fret and seating it with my drill press. I failed once and pulled up the edges of the slot a bit when I ripped the fret back out, and failed again on another slot but got the fret out without damage, but when I went to clean the glue out with the S-M slot scraper, I separated the binding from the FB in that spot. Then there were some others where the bottom of the fret isn't completely flush with the board, and even the fret hammer couldn't get them all the way flush. They're CLOSE, I mean, a piece of paper might not slip in there, but I can just see a glimmer of the tang when I shine a light...
And well, that's when my ears started ringing.
I have since calmed down a bit. I masked the back of the FB and wicked a little thin CA in the crack between the binding and the wood, and I realized that if the frets are causing the board to bow backwards, I probably don't need to be using any CA to hold em down.
Now I'm just finishing the frets. I've stopped trying to glue them and started beveling the tangs at the ends in case the issue is that the slots aren't deep enough, and the last three have gone in without incident. I'm thinking now about the binding gaps, and I'm going to try to fix them by cutting a very thin strip of binding material, sticking it on with acetone, and then trimming it flush. I think that'll work better than spackling in acetone/goop, because I usually get air holes in the goop when it dries.
I tell ya though, if I do screw up this FB irrevocably, I don't think I have the gumption to make a new one. If I do, it's gonna be unbound and have dot markers...
I mean, is this normal??
I've had that happen before to a FB I was installing. A couple of the frets came out too. I just glued the board to the neck with a couple of 1"x 2" boards(top of FB and bottom of neck) to keep everything straight and a bunch of clamps to keep the FB tight against the neck all the way down. Loose frets just got a tap back down after everything dried. You may end up having to add a bit of Superglue to a overly loose fret, but it'll stay in place and be fine.
I don't think I'm gonna have any loose frets; they are just gonna get squeezed even tighter when the board gets glued flat.
Hopefully you don't have a loose one, I just had one at the 12th that needed a little glue. Can't tell by looking at it and it's holding up.
Well, that step's done, anyway.
Does look kinda cool...
Now I need a slick and foolproof way to grind these ends down without marring the binding. Wonder if my robo sander can help...
And lots of tape. I always use a couple of hand files. Sure it take a while, but it doesn't take too much off at one time either. Also don't want a sander catching a fret end and pulling it out.
Guys I'm no ex spurt, but I have done a few (about 4 I think) bound fret-boards but the way I do it results in the plastic binding nib forming the end of the fret which can be rubbed nice and smooth with a bit of high grade paper or some steel wool. Question:- Do they get steel wool from metallic sheep?
No mucking around trying to achieve perfect ball ends on the frets when you have some nice smooth plastic that can be shaped and smoothed to give a fret end as slippery as a freshwater eel, and its very easy to achieve as well.
Here's a link to a pix of the nibs in a recent thread I did about neck making....http://www.tdpri.com/threads/neck-for-a-surprise-gift-git.782925/#post-7995039
This is to my mind a very easy process with excellent play-ability and seems to do away with the dreaded "fret sprout" as well.
Mkay, but I'm kinda past that now... lol
Dan Erlewine gives every fret slots a couple strokes of a triangular file before inserting the frets. Apparently it helps prevent tear outs when you have to pull out a fret. He also heats them with a soldering iron before pulling them out. I do the triangular file when I think of it before fretting. Never tried the heating iron nor did I ever pull a fret, so, can't concur if it works.
I'm confident that your board will be great once glued on the neck.
I did that--but not enough...
Ringing ears, eh? Had yer BP checked lately? I think you'll be just fine when you glue down the fretboard. Strange, but I honestly can't remember how I cleaned up the fret ends on the Sir Andy build I did, which had a bound fretboard. Usually, I use a triangular file that has the edges (points) ground off, and tape the adjacent wood, then clean up everything, and break the edge of the fretboard using a sanding sponge. I don't think you can do that with a plastic bound edge, cuz the plastic is softer than the wood, and more easily scratched, less easily polished smooth, et. al, ad infininitum, ad absurdum.
But it does look marvelous.
I think it looks great. I've done one or two FB's with the nipped off tangs. More of a PITA than I thought it would be, but if you use the right words, (like I believe you did), it all works out in the end.
I saw somewhere, someone made a jig for a Dremel & grinding wheel to smooth out the bottom of the fret ends. I ended up doing it by hand. With a Dremel. Not completely by hand. If you know what I mean.
I've been doing it like this:
And it's got me within a Frogtape's thickness of where I need to be. That last 1/4mm, though... I guess I just need to go to finer grit paper and go real slow...
I'll worry about beveling and dressing the fret ends after I get it glued on. Think the next things I need to do are:
1. Glue on the headstock face and
2. Cut the birdseye view profile of the neck and tenon, then
3. Install T-R and finally
4. Glue on the FB.
The magic angle:
The geometry of the heel/tenon is really doing my head in...
That's a heavy guitar at 90 lbs... what? Ohh... never mind.