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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Jupiter, Mar 17, 2016.
Jup, has mastered the bannister workbench
And built an anti gravity guitar?
Explains the duration of the build I guess. Just needs a flux capacitor in it now
Careful what you ask for, but I don't want anymore delays.
Good Lord Jup that gives me the heebie jeebies.
If I tried that and I would almost certainly manage to nudge the whole thing off the rail and down the stairwell.
This is no time to tempt Murphy....
Bravo, Jupe ! I tap the dust off my files and rasps all the time. I wonder, along with Rich, if yours might have been over-tempered and embrittled?
One step nearer dear DPP to thee....
How's about overdrives?
I had the same thought, except it would have been my cat, seeing something new and jumping up to investigate.
This is looking so damn good I've resolved to no longer tease about the build time. Your own little Sistine Chapel, whatever it takes.
Everybody chill; I got this.
If I don't finish it in 2018 it's goin in the woodstove!
We're here for support. NOOOOO wood stove please. It's looking on point
Are you sure this job's in competent hands? Soiently, We're all incompetent! Nuk Nuk Nuk
Doing a great job Jupiter. I'm sure that this will turn out to be an awesome guitar when it's finished. Sometime in the future.
So I've got the neck carve about 98% done, but it seems to be like the jumping frog thing: every day I spend on it advances it half the distance to finished... The last little bit is taking forever, and one little careless nick means another 30 minutes to fix it and blend the adjustment in. But we're about at the point where I might as well glue it in; I'll prolly have to fix a bunch of work damage after that point anyway, so there's no point in fussing every little detail yet.
Roughed out (roughed in?) a temporary nut from a piece of Corian (TM). Used the nut slot spacing pdf that's floating around out on the web. I might regret that later, since if I spend a lot of work on this, and it works out, I might not ever get around to making the bone nut. Corian's really easy to work and it doesn't stink as much as bone...
Taped a coupla washers together to approximate the thickness of the bridge adjustment wheel and the flange on the bushing and yeah, looks like it'll only be a couple turns of the adjustment wheels to get the string height right. So i'm not planning to fuss with the tenon thickness any more.
I have the Dot plans that tell me where to locate the bridge, but who knows how and where I've deviated from the plans. I've given myself a cushion here and there, and then lost track of where they were, so I dunno if the bridge still belongs where the drawing has it.
So I used Dan Erlewine's method of measuring from the nut to the 12th fret, then adding 9/64" to that, marking it on the straight edge, and then putting that mark at the middle of the saddle adjustment space.
I'm not sure, but I think the bridge is ending up a couple mms farther down the body than the plans called for.
With the bridge located on the center line, the strings are evenly spaced relative to the edges of the FB, which means, I guess, that the neck tenon and mortise are straight and in the right place--or at least my errors have cancelled out.
Everything looks copacetic! Kind of a lot of space between the strings and the edges of the FB, but they are parallel, and the string spacing is about where I like it on my other guitars. It's good to have that cushion, I guess, because I can roll the FB a bit more.
A bit of work on the fret ends and I'll be ready to glue! I won't drill the actual bridge/stoptail holes until after that.
Time to start hunting down a shop to spray this baby.
Looks great Jup - really clean. Just remember (and you probably know this) that the bridge is the last thing you need drill for. Once you've glued the neck and aligned the tailpiece in place string up the guitar with the two E strings (and something to give you some height under the bridge) and be happy with the intonation on those two strings (everything else will fall inbetween) - and mark off your bridge placement.
Whoa...it never occurred to me to do the tailpiece first! Isn't that weird? I was just thinking from the nut to the body, and the first thing you hit is the bridge...
Decided to cut the heel flush, figuring if I screw it up, I can add a MOTS heel cap.
Pencilled a line where the body met the heel, and made a little fence from a maple scrap. Then I tucked a strip of mdf under it until it was at a 4º angle to the bottom of the tenon (which is parallel to the FB).
Then I used my fret slot saw, cuz it's nice and rigid. It didn't cut easily, but it cut pretty straight.
And that came out better than I'd hoped!
Only down side is that it pretty much eliminates the MOTS heel cap...
Definitely what MG said.
1. Glue the neck in
2. Slide in your temp nut with correct spacing and string slot depths.
3. Use high and low E strings to correctly align tailpiece and drill/ install.
4. Set bridge saddles to roughly standard stagger and slip bridge under strings and use shims to get it to correct height. (Protect guitar surface with wood first shim)
5. Install all other strings. I say use all strings as I have a factory SG where one of the middle 4 saddles for some reason needs more than standard adjustment travel for proper intonation. Now is the time to know if weirdness exists in your guitar.
6. Slither bridge around till strings are aligned. Mark string positions on saddles
7. File in saddle slots and dress
8. Re-shim bridge height to compensate for bridge saddle slotting
9. Set neck relief
10. Intonate all strings till ears and equipment are happy.
11. Time to mark and drill for bridge ferrules!