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Thinline Jazzmaster with Both Contours

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Deed_Poll, Oct 11, 2018 at 3:52 PM.

  1. Deed_Poll

    Deed_Poll Tele-Meister

    382
    Feb 8, 2013
    Brighton, UK
    Hey guys! This is a first for me so I thought I'd document the process a bit and do a build-along :)

    It's not a Tele, but if you're a Tele-with-contours kind of person and you fancy doing a Thinline, there might be some useful bits and pieces in here.

    The challenge is how to achieve the top and back contours with a hollow / Thinline construction. I've done one or the other before as a Thinline, basically machining the body core in 3D inside and out, and capping it off with my standard 1/4" marine birch ply top (for belly cut) or back (for arm contour).

    This Thinline had a belly contour and shows the process pretty nicely:

    [​IMG]

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    Here's the inside of the body core (before cutting the belly contour on the outside). You can see I've extracted the shape of the belly cut and used it for the inside cavity cut, so that the cut leaves a consistent 1/4" back thickness.

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    Then I cut the corresponding contour in the back

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    Here's the top, with reference holes to glue to the core so the f-hole and control cavities are in the right place

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    And here's the whole thing clamped up and gluing the top to the back. After this stage, I simply line up the reference holes with the bed and cut the body from the front as usual.
     

  2. Deed_Poll

    Deed_Poll Tele-Meister

    382
    Feb 8, 2013
    Brighton, UK
    So I adapted the above process to try and tackle a Thinline with BOTH contours. What I would have to do is basically the same thing, but the top AND the back would have to be like the body core above. Instead of a thick core and thin top, I would have to split the difference and start with two boards approximately one-half the thickness of the finished body. So I got in touch with my supplier and ordered a stack of 1" thick, 44" long and 7"-8" wide heat treated maple.

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    Each of these boards would be sawn in half, and doubled back to make either a top or a back. It would take two whole boards to make a body, and each body would be 4-piece (two on top, two on the bottom) with a join down the centre and a 'pancake' join mid way around the body perimeter.

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    Here's a print-out to check that Nico is happy with the f-hole shape and location. I also used it to pick some suitable boards for the build and locate any knots and things to make sure they would not fall on the finished body.

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    These are the ones I chose, they're a good match for each other in terms of grain and colouration and are just the right size. I order 1" thick stock knowing that I will have to plane them off to 21mm-22.25mm (for a finished thickness between 1-5/8" and 1-3/4"). Obviously, for each guitar all the thicknesses will be the same! The range is just a handy reference.

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    You can see there will be a fair bit of planing and thicknessing involved to get these straight, square and planar!

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    And here's the first pair after planing and thicknessing ready for glue and clamping. This will be the top. I've left this to glue overnight, and the back will be clamped up tomorrow.

    I'm gluing the top first because it will be the first side to be machined - I will be cutting from the top, and will do the f-hole, pickup routes, and the control routes (cutting them just deep enough that the "hollowing out" pass from the other side will reveal the cavity).

    Then I will do the hollow pass (back of the top), then the hollowing pass of the back (too of the back), and then it will be time to clamp the top to the back.

    Stay tuned!
     
    Snfoilhat, BorderRadio and Mat UK like this.

  3. Shidoin

    Shidoin Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

    815
    Jan 7, 2009
    Ventura CA
    I’m gonna enjoy this! Thanks for documenting your cool build.
     

  4. Mat UK

    Mat UK Tele-Afflicted Silver Supporter

    Feb 17, 2009
    London, UK
    Good to see you back. You always do a good build thread!
     

  5. Deed_Poll

    Deed_Poll Tele-Meister

    382
    Feb 8, 2013
    Brighton, UK
    Cheers guys, it's good to be back, Mat! Great to have you along for the ride!

    This one will be next...

    [​IMG]

    It'll be the same sort of thing with quite extensive carving front and back, it has a belly cut on the back, forearm contour and the Rickenbacker style ramp to get a bit more angle out of the vibrato... And that ridiculous f-hole will certainly want a couple of support posts underneath like I did on this one which some of you might remember

    [​IMG]

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    It's the same basic perimeter shape, only with the aforementioned contours, chamfered edge instead of radiused and the Ricky ramp ;)
     
    jayyj and BorderRadio like this.

  6. adamkoop

    adamkoop Tele-Meister

    201
    Feb 18, 2016
    Halifax
    Am I understanding that last picture correctly, pickup between the bridge and the trem ? I like it ! let the ghost ringing shine through
     

  7. BorderRadio

    BorderRadio Poster Extraordinaire Silver Supporter

    Apr 2, 2014
    Phoenix, AZ
    Drooling over all these...nice stuff!
     

  8. Deed_Poll

    Deed_Poll Tele-Meister

    382
    Feb 8, 2013
    Brighton, UK
    Cheers guys! Yes Adam, that's exactly right. Gotta love the ghostly jangle!!

    So here is Part 2! Great to have you all along for the ride on this one :)

    I thought it had all gone perfectly, but alas there was a problem! I'm quite sure it's fixable though. Just very, very annoying.

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    Things initially look good from the front! The first cut was doing the f-hole, pickup and control cavities from the front. Not to full thickness, because the Thinline cavities would intersect them from the back... Though this picture is taken after that.

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    At first glance, the underside looks decent as well. This is still attached via the reference pegs to the machine bed. I use 4.5mm wooden dowells for this since that way I can use the same tool I use for the neck bolt holes. The piece is also fixed down by vacuum (I'm a belt and braces kinda guy!)

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    I cut the treble side cavity with an end mill (square bottom). Where it overlaps with the control cavity, it is well within my standard 0.1mm allowance. The circle you can see by the cavity is to give the pickguard screw in that location something to bite into.

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    These bumps on the bass side perform the same function. The Jazzmaster was never really meant to be a Thinline, so I had to improvise a couple of things!

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    Here's the disaster area. So my method is to lower the tool pass around the f-hole, so that the edge of the f-hole looks like it is 1/8" thick rather than the 1/4" thick the bulk of the top actually is (Fender did this as well with their thinlines).

    But you can see here, I was unlucky this time and got a splinter right along the edge of the f-hole... that will be visible from the top as you will see, so I'll need to fill that in to the correct thickness and reshape it flush with the edge before I can join top to bottom. Really annoying! :fp:

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    Here it is from the other side, clearly visible and horrible! I think I will build it up with a few layers of sawdust and superglue, unless anyone has any bright ideas.

    [​IMG]

    Inside is like a Zen garden! I'll machine the visible side (inside of the back) a lot finer than this, but I perversely like the idea of leaving some invisible evidence of how the thing is made.

    The back is now patiently gluing up, more on that in part 3!

    Cheers
     
    AAT65 and 2blue2 like this.

  9. 2blue2

    2blue2 Friend of Leo's

    Jul 20, 2013
    Island of Oahu
    Bind it? Still super neat though.
     

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