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Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups

Things to consider with a pine body?

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by GhostofJohnToad, Dec 23, 2008.

  1. GhostofJohnToad

    GhostofJohnToad Tele-Afflicted

    Nov 10, 2006
    Toledo, Ohio
    Thinking about doing a pine tele based on things I've seen round here. With pine being kinda soft is there anything to consider? Will screws strip out easier? What to do to minimize dents, etc? I've been eyeing up some knotty pine that would look really cool. Maybe this knotty pine top over another wood?

  2. twangcaster1

    twangcaster1 Friend of Leo's

    Feb 28, 2008
    Nashville, TN
    Just treat 'er gently.

  3. jkingma

    jkingma Super Moderator Staff Member

    Admin Post
    Just be really really careful and then when you are almost done and see a few nicks and dents you'll wonder "how the hell did that happen?". Don't look at it the wrong way either... you could scratch it. ;)

  4. Stuco

    Stuco Poster Extraordinaire

    Aug 27, 2006
    It's probably about like basswood. I wouldn't worry about it, if it gets dings then think of it as earned relicing.

  5. boozer

    boozer Tele-Meister

    Nov 17, 2007
    Langley B.C. Canada
    nothing you can do to save it,
    it'll dent easily... just the nature of the wood.

  6. robt57

    robt57 Telefied Ad Free Member

    Feb 29, 2004
    Portland, OR
    IMO, just get used to the idea it will self relic quickly and naturally. I find the wood itself is no more susceptible than a thin nitro finish is, and all my pines [2 finished, one on the bench] are nitro.

    But let's not just talk about a perceived negatives. Low weight, great honk & pop in the tone dept. easy on the bits to make...

    As far as working with, use flat sanding blocks when sanding pre-finish. the sap wood goes away faster than the heart-wood . So if you want flat surfaces, sander beware.

  7. Like Santa, you have to consider if it's been knotty or nice.

  8. robt57

    robt57 Telefied Ad Free Member

    Feb 29, 2004
    Portland, OR

  9. Nick JD

    Nick JD Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

    It's possible to cover a very soft pine body in a layer of 4 or 6oz clear fiberglass just like a surfboard. This makes it almost indestructible.

    I've done it before with Pinus radiata that's like balsa. A wood of less than 0.3 specific density can be used for a neck. I got the idea from those Parker guitars that use basswood for their necks.

    Toneseekers ... stop cringing! :D

  10. superchicken_VI

    superchicken_VI Friend of Leo's

    Aug 16, 2007
    Monroe, NC
    I'm not a "toneseeker", I don't mind the thick poly finishes on my Mexi and Japanese Fenders...But surfboard fiberglass makes me cringe. ;)

  11. robt57

    robt57 Telefied Ad Free Member

    Feb 29, 2004
    Portland, OR
    I have not ever heard anyone complaining about a goop covered sparkle caster....

    I was appalled in Steve's Thread when I saw that he actually left the binding hanging out off the wood a good deal to allow for the goop depth. ;)

    Also, the 99 poly AM SE I have is a pretty thick finish, not quite a 1/16" and it sounds fine. I will say my pine casters with a minimal nitro has a more open and honk/pop to the tone. Is it the wood, the finish, the 1-9/16" thick bodies? Dunno!

  12. Tim73

    Tim73 Friend of Leo's

    Oct 26, 2006
    Wiltshire, England
    Mine is wrapped in leather ala Waylon so no issues! :cool:

  13. dugg

    dugg TDPRI Member

    Oct 23, 2008
    san clemente, CA
    I've used poplar, redwood and pine recently to make 5 or 6 solid bodies if you count the one my friend is building here. I try to align the grain quartersawn for greatest stiffness, plus it's a little more dent resistant and holds screws best. I tried minwax wood hardener on a poplar body, but it stained funny and smelled terrible when you worked the wood so now I use watered down hot hide glue as a 'sizing'. The hide glue makes the wood surface much harder. It also makes the grain deep looking kind of like shellac, especially on the endgrain. Normally, I mix the HHG about 2:1 water to glue, but for the sizing I use about 4:1. Woods varied in how much mixture they soaked up. The pine soaked up a lot, end grain especially. Yes, it does change the tone. It makes the whole structure stiffer, harder and more 'sustain-ey', and you can hear it easily. Day after treating, it's already a bit more ringy and bright sounding, but after it dries a few days more, it gets really lively.

    Also, on a side note, I've been mortising a block of hardwood under the bridge on soft wood bodies with the grain running cross wise. The hardwood (I've used maple and bamboo) supports the screws better and gives a more solid transfer of energy to the body.

  14. robt57

    robt57 Telefied Ad Free Member

    Feb 29, 2004
    Portland, OR

    Love to see a pic of that, very interesting....

  15. Colt W. Knight

    Colt W. Knight Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

    Jan 21, 2007
    Tucson, AZ
    You can buy hardners to make it more dent and scratch resistant, and Ron Kirn taught us all a cool trick to remove build indentations with a wet paper towel and shirt iron.

    If you use a hardner, sanding sealer, and Polyurethane you will have a pretty tough finish. The hard part is keeping it scratch and dent free in the fabrication process. Lowes and Home Depot also sell a pour on clear coat that goes on as thick as 30-40 coats of varnish. Never tried it, but I bet that would work pretty well too. Tone wise I can't tell you though, sorry.

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