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Discussion in 'Telecaster Discussion Forum' started by Twang Deluxe, Jul 11, 2018.
That is correct. It’s an outlier for sure!
Today I talked to a guy from a GC. He had the idea to put a heavy steelplate under a vintage style bridge to get more sustain. I'm not sure, if this would really work. What do you think about it?
There is one MIM Tele model that has a 3 screw bridge: the Cabronita. The screw hole spacing is slightly different than the American Std hole placement. However, Marc Rutters makes an excellent replacement bridge plate (La Burrito Bridge) and saddle set for it.
I would highly recommend Rutters bridge plate and saddles. They improve your tone quite a bite. I have his saddles on a couple of my guitars and they are very nice. Well worth the cost.
I just fitted a 4 screw vintage bridge to a 2017 MIM standard. Straight swap, but I'm finding the barrels bottom out on the plate before I can get to a low action. Just ordered some flat bottom barrels.
I think some folks on here we’re getting the Mexican standard bridge confused with the American Standard bridge. As far as I know, it was the latter that had the three hole mounting arrangement.
That was me, I thought the MIM bridge that looks like the Am Std, the wider thicker plate with no side lip; was the same mounting spec as well as look.
The Gotoh BS-TC2 has a thick plate with 3 saddles, designed for through body or top loader applications and fits Standard MIM body.
Gotoh would be my choice. I believe Squier CV bridges are also thicker than standard.
How is the sound of the squier bridges?
Are there any feedback issues? How is the sustain?
Sounds like you need a neck shim to tilt the neck downward. The right thickness should put things right with the existing saddles.
Flat bottom barrels You make the rockin’ world go round...
there is these
you can see it is pretty thick
i have a couple and they are my thickest ones.
very nice quality.
one thing though regarding the set screws, they are not smoothend at all so they are quite freshly precision machined/ sharp
couple mins with some emery or whathave you would quickly remedy this.
i however have chosen to use my palm muting technique in an attempt to smooth them off.
it has been 4-5 years and they may have gotten smoother? i dunno i just dump out all of the palmskin powder everyso often
I'd already thought that myself. The flat bottom saddles look like a simpler solution, but a neck shim may be on the cards. Interestingly I could get a low action with the original bridge.
I put this one on a Tele MJT build I did and it’s great:
Fender Vintage Style "No-Name" Notched Telecaster Bridge Plate https://applink.reverb.com/item/517898-fender-vintage-style-no-name-notched-telecaster-bridge-plate
Beat me to it.
My preference is the thinner ones with Alum/brass/brass saddles. But!! The thinner, the more attention to it sitting flat with the most contact area to the body. And maybe the more likely the leading edge may float and cause issues.
A few ways to address the floating issues, including a few extra screws. Running the plates on a flat surface with 120 grit a good way to make it the most flat mating surface at the body.
IMO, thinness means little if the saddle area has full contact surface area, and the edge is not flapping contributing sonic anomalies to the mix.
Notched with a thinner plates seems a recipe for aforementioned anomalies. No experience, just my brains take contim-plate-in it.
Not the string through versions of the MIM Standard. When the MIM Standard went from Toploader 6 hammer saddle elongated bridge, to the Stringthrough, thick plate with the 6 "block" saddles, it went from 3 mount screws to 4 mount screws and the string spacing at the bridge is interchangeable with St. Leo/Broadcaster style guitars, AV52 guitars.
If I may, what happens is, people know the American Standard Teles and their spacing and because the MIM Standard uses a bridge that's kinda similar, we make a mental jump and assume those 2 elongated bridges must be compatible. In cases of guys who are also mostly familiar with the MIM Standard Strat, they tend to assume the MIM Standard Tele follows similar lines - but it went another way. I think this is a common mistake - I know I got mixed up about all this way back when - and it took a while to see where I went wrong.
A Highway One is .060 inches thick and the old Vintage one is .048 inches.
The Joe Barden bridgeplate is also .060 inches.
The Vintage compatible Bill Callaham plate might be more to your liking, with a bit more modern look, and it is .075 inches thick. If you can stand to pay that much, that's what I think you are striving for right now.
Thicker plates do tend to twang less, yes. I can't tell you that one bridge will "sustain" longer than another. I'm actually, not fond of "sustain" to be honest.
Thank you all, for your good suggestions!!!!
Does anyone know how thick the allparts bridge is?
I have routed a pocket and put birch and walnut under the saddle bearing area under the bridge plate flush to the top of the body. I have also drilled out 2 post trem post positions and glued in hardwoods in basswood body Strats. First to repair a shifted bridge, and later to brighten them up as that is what the birch did in the initial repaired basswood body and I liked it.
You can and will change the response, for better or worse. I have considered such operations successes for my bench operations.
We have had many a thread on blocks instead of ferrules on the back of string thru bodies. I never went there personally. But in my minds ear higher janka rated wood than the body wood under the bridge has got to effect response more than a ferrule block where the strings anchor. Not to mention the plate covers it, so it is stealth Tone!! [snickers while typing the word 'Tone']
Having never done the ferrule block, just experience guesstimating.
But you really need it for quarter triplet notes.
BTW, Twang Deluxe: you keep de-twangifing Teles you will need to change your name to DeTwangin Deluxe.