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Discussion in 'Tele-Technical' started by FrankB, Jan 19, 2007.
Just watched as much of it as I could stand.
On second thoughts, red satin's not such a good idea...
So I'm done spraying for today. I have about 1 1/3 cans on the front of this so far. I'm guessing I will use as many as 4 cans total on the entire body. I've used as much as 5-6 cans on some bodies with no ill effects in regard to tone, to get a certain look or effect and lacquer does shrink so dramatically that you could use more and in about 1-4 months it will shrink down to a super thin finish. No worries about overdoing it with the clear coats with lacquer.
FrankB.............. my concern was more of a safety concern.............. pulling the lacquer fumes past the electrical sparking of the motor brushes. Maybe it's not at problem. Many spray booths have a fan turned by a belt connected to a remote motor so the motor doesn't come in contact with the fumes.
I agree ............... I wouldn't cover up an official Fender decal.
I'm not going very heavy with the coats, so I' not going to get to worried about potential fire issues, but yes, my other shop has an old belt driven compressor motor that is hooked up to a 42" fan. And the motor is in a box where the belt comes out ...safe and sound...
THis little fan unit I have here at the bike shop has a somewhat sealed motor anyway, so It's good to use for this type of right field application...I may make a new neck for this, maple maybe?
Maple board. Definitely maple. Couldn't be anything else.
That guitar is looking good.
Are you going to have someone sew you up a matching shirt?
Buck, you are the man.... I've just spent 3 hours reading your Buttercaster thread.
I smell a black body, rosewood neck, anodized pickguard, single P90-fitted beast coming on....
Go look at Buckocaster's Buttercaster thread to see his many builds.
You, too, will believe that a fabric covering WORKS!!!!
that thing is gonna rock, Frank
I'm with Buckocaster on this one - maple would really look best (just my opinion mind you). Save that Fender neck with decal and go with a new neck. But still, and txspreacher may bonk me on the head for this one, I think a matching headstock might look a bit too... girl-y? Not always, but in this case with the purple paisley and all. But don't listen to us Frank, you'll get opinions all over the map!
Well, if we're going with a maple neck, the matching headstock is out. Rarely does a color-matched headstock work with maple. Oh, and.....
"GIRL-Y?????? Why, I oughta......." On second thought, even after all my subliminal messages, you may be exactly right.
You're onto something there, if I was in a traditional country band or orchestra, definately a suit for sure. If I wear a shirt like the guitar, it'll look like I'm just some guy onstage playing air guitar, it would get lost....
You could have the guitar, the shirt, the suit and the backdrop all out of the same material.
I can hear the audience now: "Hey! where's that music coming from?"
good morning everyone, it's -5 degrees here in south eastern PA....Came into the shop today to a 55 degree store....
My fish weren;t swimming too much until it warmed up a good 10 degrees in here...wow.
So, today I am going to level out the top and back somewhat to see how the finish is building. Building as in keeping it from getting too lumpy or wavy which would make sanding later a total nightmare. The photos in this post will show how the finish looks before and after gently wetsanding with 400 grit wet paper. I am using a warmer water maybe 100 degrees. to also aid in not scratching the finish but perform more of a smooth sanding. sometimes with cold water you can trap a piece of grit easier because it seizes up and forms a kernel and boom, you get a line from the object. Keeping th water warmer inimizes this effect, at least from my experience anyway. Also I am posting 2 pictures of necessary sanding tools, a weighted sanding block which keeos you from applying too much caveman power during sanding, a weighted block allows you to focus more on your physical technique versus pushing down when you sand, just let it glide over the top. The other tool is a vitamin bottle cap which I use to knock down any weird lumps that I douwldn;t want to run over with the block.
Also notice how I did the burst on the edge, it looks like a snow flake type of spray pattern. This is actually an accident I did along time ago, but thought it looked cool, so I did it here being I couldn't duplicate a binding effect, nor would I want to, binding is binding y'know....So I did the mistake thing to create a looser looking burst, not one that has a fine spray pattern to it, I think it looks nice in a festive and unconventional way. you can also acheive this look by sraying you color, then as it is still setting up hit it with some lacquer to shock it and cause it to move and migrate away from itself. No it does not a crackle technique, crackle is big and chunky, this is a much smaller disruption of a patterned fanout. I like it. it can cause you to want to build up the finish alot on top of it right away, you don;t want to do that, t will cause the color to rise up and move more....just be sure to keep your coats even. you will notice that your lacquer will want to settle into the small divits, that's o.k. just be patient with the clear coating and build it up appropriately and sand between days of coating, or between coats, whichever will work the best to acheive your goal.
I think if I do a maple neck I would do the headstock on this guitar.. oh yeah!! it wold bring it all together in my eye aynyway
OH man.... maybe an entire band dressed like that... it'd be a good video anyway.. why hasn't anyone done something like that?...genius Chickenpicker, pure genius....
Frank, there are only two geniuses posting on this thread, and I'm neither of them!
okay, moving on to the back again, I laid down about 6 coats of lacquer basically enough for this stage to allow me to wet sand to as flat as possible tus far. I still have to lay more down overall to allow me to get to a level point for finish sanding and polishing. Allowing enough time for the finish to shrink up will determine how much I will have to add after it sits for a few days. THis photo is after I quickly wetsanded the back with 400. I have a few specs in the sides here and there which I can touch up later with an airbrush. I'm allowing it ti hang for about an hour before moving on to warm up a bit, it's really cold again here in SE PA...whew... Oh and yes, I brought the burst in more on the back mostly t see how it looks with more of a fade.....it's taking on a white wall boss hog kind of look to it... or big Enis and little Enis...hahaha
I'm glad to see your project is progressing well. I hope some of the ideas I had forwarded to you in reply to your e-mail a couple of weeks ago was helpful in some way.
For those of you who are interested in doing something like this, there is another good tutorial at projectguitar.com:
yes, thank you for your email, it is helpful definately. I had a few minor issues along the way, but nothing that is alarming.
Most of what I am discovering in doing this, is the proper steps for the next one . For instance after applying the fabric and sealing it. rather than go straight to the paint process, I will wait and build up enough finish to level out where the fabric doesn;t want to feather out and wants to create a lip. This way if I apply some lacquer, I can sand it flat, then do a burst or whatever then apply more clear then level that...those types of issues..
Keeo the help coming..haha.. I appreciate it!
Holy Carp! Nice looking guitar.