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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Marn99, Jan 27, 2017.
If you're using cloth wire, you'll be happy for the extra 1/16".
I always use a 3/8 bit. As long as you don't accidentally drill through the bottom or side (which I've done) there's not really a reason NOT to use a different size.
I am going to be doing a good deal of work on my guitar this spring break, particularly drilling operations. What is the diameter of the holes for the pickguard screws? I know its probably going to be a answer like "use what fits" but what do all of you use and suggest?
Fender uses #4, Gibson uses #3. Refer to the chart I linked above .
Well, I am back again with more updates, this time, I did the cavity connections and I started on the neck. I finally finished the cavities by doing the connection between the neck pocket and the neck pickup cavity. When I was drilling the cavity connections I did accidentally snag the edge of one of the cavities, but I used thin superglue to get it back down. Not a bad repair if I do say so myself . Finally, time for a cool story, this one is about routing part of the truss rod. The depth is supposed to be .440 of an inch, after a couple passes, we got it to .436, give or take a few. we didn't quite know what to do about it so I turned the depth stop on the router by just a hair and we took one more pass. I measured with my electronic calipers and there it was, dead on .440 . That was the first time I have ever done something like that! Lastly, for some reason, the centerline on my neck blank doesn't quite match up with the truss rod channel, but when I put my template over, it doesn't look like anything is wrong...I used an incra ruler to do this, and I worked off of a square side, so I don't see how this could be going wrong. Any ideas?
Here is a series of drawings I made to visualize how I am going to do the truss rod.
Step 1: I've already done this one
Step 2: Does anyone know this measurement??? It is pretty crucial and stewmac conveniently doesn't have it on their diagrams....
Step 4: here I am going to insert the truss rod
Step 5: during step 3 and 4 I will temporarily glue in a piece of maple into the slot removed during step 3, drill it out using the same forstner bit that I used to drill in step 2 so that the little plug will match the radius of the nut hole, then I will finally glue it in like so.
Redraw the centerline over until it is in the middle of the truss rod rout.
In step 2, if you measure down from the top of the block to the center of the lower rod, that's the dimension you are looking for.
It might be 5/16", but I'd measure yours... It just needs to be within 1/32 or so. You can always make the access hole a bit bigger with a larger diameter drill bit.
the block is 7/16" deep. The rods are 3/16" each. That leaves 1/32 above the top rod and 1/32 below the bottom rod if there is no material between them... I don't have one handy to look.
I think the Hot rod is designed to be removable, as long as the blocks are at the surface or a a few thousandths below the wood, it'll be good. This is a pretty easy rod to install.
Thanks for the info, I really need to get some electric calipers instead of borrowing.... As for the idea of removing them, my filler block above the nut will be done with hide glue or titebond 1 (I'm leaning towards hide glue because it won't shift at all when the nut is loosened or tightened) and the rod will be held in with silicone bathtub sealant.
Looks good. Getting ready to do string thru holes, or is this gonna be a top loader?
Traditional string thru, I am unsure if I should have them flush with the body or not.
This is a Fender and as you can hopefully see from the picture the ferrules are just slightly recessed from the body. I'm not sure about vintage or traditional, but here's an example. And because I know you're gonna ask ...When I did my telecaster build I drilled a small whole (I think 1/8" but I can't remember) all the way through a scrap piece of wood and then over that hole I drilled a test hole of the correct diameter to check the depth for my ferrules and set my depth on my drill press there. The reason for doing a small hole all the way through is so then you can get your ferrule back out by poking something through the back side!
Thanks for the info I am using stewmac string ferrules, which are 5/16ths with a 25/64ths lip (or flange, or whatever you want to call it) and I am wondering if it is possible to flush mount them. I might test that on scrap, we shall see.
It is... depth stop on the drill press, first the out diameter of the flange size drill bit and then a slightly smaller one for the inside diameter of the cylinder part. I highly recommend brad points especially if you do not have a jig and are going off hand drawn lines.
So both of my pre-slotted pre-radiused boards are 24 frets. And I started thinking, won't the 22nd fret slot cause trouble when making a 21 fret guitar? I am concerned that when I route it there will be a little step where the slot was, ie if I am dead on a 25 1/2 scale length half of the 22nd slot gets routed away and the other half stays making an ugly step at the end. Is it possible to move the fingerboard forward a little and pick up the slack on the saddle end?
When I have used stew mac preslotted fretboards, I cut it at 22 at then sand the 1/32" or so of the neck wood flush up to it. The saddles take up the difference when intonating. It'll be fine. Remember these things used to be made by humans who sanded them.
I am getting close to finishing the body and pickguard. I have some questions on final sanding, what is the best way to do it? I was thinking of doing a beam of wood to make sure everything is level and I don't accidentally round over the cavity edges. What grit should I start at?
I try and make sure the body is fairly flat before doing the round overs so chances of messing them up is reduced. I'd take a flat scrap of wood/mdf that'll fit in your hand and start with 150 then 220. No need to go higher than that for your base coat. If you decide to use a beam mark the body with a pencil so you can see the low and high spots. I do a cross hatch pattern when I sand with a beam and if I need to I go down to 100 grit then work up.
I go 80,120,220. Make sure you sand the mill marks out because they will show up later if you do not. Use a hard block with them. Sticky back paper on a hard block seems to work pretty well. Sand in the direction of the grain.
I am going to be doing a bunch of drill press stuff today and I was wondering, should I drill the neck mounting holes today or wait until the neck is done?
If the holes in the neck aren't drilled, I'd drill the holes in the body beforehand. They are a standard distance from the back of the neck cavity and from each other. FWIW, I drill all my holes at the same work session.