Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com

The Jagstangelectro

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Jupiter, Mar 7, 2015.

  1. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Silver Supporter

    Jun 22, 2010
    Osaka, Japan
    Okay, it's been about a year since I started a build. The next one was SUPPOSED to be my DPP mosrite-y thing, but there are a few technical issues I haven't worked out about that yet (the set neck, the mosrite PU covers, the german carve, etc.), plus it's going to be a bit expensive.

    Plus, I got this neck from Stewmac that I bought as an impulse because it was SUCH A GOOD DEAL--birdseye maple/RW/paddle head, and I got three lippies from EY Guitar Parts Lying around here, and neither of those are right for the Mosrite.

    I have noticed recently that there has been some talk around here--and some actual building--about those Kurt Cobain Jagstangs, and ever since I saw one in a 2nd-hand store a few months ago, I've had 'em in the back of my mind.

    So after collecting some pdfs and pics from THD bros, I pieced together an outline (LEGO droid included for scale):

    [​IMG]

    On the right is the template for The Rocket, my first scratch build, which was mostly a Grosh Electrajet outline, with some little fragments of Jazzmaster DNA spliced in. They're pretty similar, and in fact, I debated just using that template, since I'm mostly interested in doing things the easy way on this build. :lol: But I decided that I wanted a little more of a Fender mutant vibe after all.

    Dang that Jagstang is narrow in the waist...

    [​IMG]

    And dat azz:

    [​IMG]

    Houston, we have a problem:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Problem solved.

    [​IMG]

    I like it better. Still looks like a wack Fender transporter malfunction, but not quite so extreme.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    If the weather cooperates, I hope to get that cypress blank thinned down to about 1.65" or so, and rough cut to the outline.
     
    Captain Nutslot likes this.

  2. jamorudd

    jamorudd Tele-Afflicted

    Oct 3, 2012
    Oklahoma City, OK
    Alright! Join the club!
     

  3. trev333

    trev333 Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

    [​IMG]

    I'm lazy... I have a body blank glued and marked out ready to go..for a Mustang type build to go with a JV neck I have...

    then I saw this on ebay ..no bids.. 120 clams, custom made body with a 400 clam paint job (it said).... :cool:

    the path of least resistance.....:rolleyes:


    good luck with your new shape Jupiter...:cool:
     

    Attached Files:


  4. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Silver Supporter

    Jun 22, 2010
    Osaka, Japan
    Thanks guys!

    I'm a little rusty with the router sled; hope it all goes well tomorrow...

    After some dithering about the bridge (including considering a roller bridge, and fretting about the radius and string spacing), I decided to go Mustang style, except with height-adjustable saddles. I was ready to buy the modified bridge that Warmoth sells, even though it seemed expensive, but the high shipping cost on top of the premium price pushed me to the East--via e-Bay. I hope it's not too trashy. At least I can feel confident that the bridge and trem will fit together, though I have no idea whether or not they're built to genuine Fender specs; the seller didn't provide a lot of dimensions.

    I want to try another finish approach this time: automotive acrylic lacquer with 2-pak clear over it. Is it feasible? I want to use a metallic color, which I believe means no sanding after the final color coat, correct? If so, is the clear going to stick properly? I was thinking that I'd use the same brand (Holt's) for the color and clear. There's an acrylic clear that I know will burn into the color, because I used it before, but I wasn't impressed with its toughness...
     

  5. 10orgtr

    10orgtr Tele-Meister

    190
    May 3, 2011
    western PA
    Hey Jup, I have a buddy who used to paint bikes with 2 pak clear over acrylic automotive lacquer with no problems. Shoot a coat of clear lacquer over the metallic and then you can sand before the 2 pak.
    Cheers,
    Woody
     

  6. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Silver Supporter

    Jun 22, 2010
    Osaka, Japan

    Aha! I hadn't thought of that! Thanks!
     

  7. R. Stratenstein

    R. Stratenstein Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

    Aug 3, 2010
    Loganville, Ga.
    Woo-hoo! We're on our way!
     

  8. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Silver Supporter

    Jun 22, 2010
    Osaka, Japan
    Well, yeah, but don't get too excited: this isn't gonna be one of those excruciatingly-detailed, voodoo-encrusted build threads. :lol: I think I'm finished with those. My motto on this build is just "git 'er done". I'll post significant progress and interesting mistakes. And remember, the neck is prefabbed (except for the headstock).

    Here's hoping for no interesting mistakes! ;)
     

  9. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Silver Supporter

    Jun 22, 2010
    Osaka, Japan
    Don't know if this qualifies as "significant progress", but

    it did take me all day, so....

    [​IMG]

    Got my blank thicknessed to a bit over 40mm (so about 1.6"), glued my pattern onto it, trimmed to the line with an exacto knife, and cut it it out with my jigsaw.

    [​IMG]

    Cleaned the edges up a bit with the sanding spindle so it wouldn't be so immediately obvious how brutal I am with a jigsaw. :oops:

    Busy week ahead, but Spring Break starts the week after that. My Spring Break goal is to have the body ready to start spraying stuff on it by the end of March. Gonna need some hardware to show up first, so I can settle the body routes.
     

  10. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Silver Supporter

    Jun 22, 2010
    Osaka, Japan
    Some progress...

    Between the spindle sander and the router, I got real close to the line.

    [​IMG]

    Got the neck pocket routed. I was excited to find that I have a template that fits this S-M discount neck perfectly. :cool:

    [​IMG]

    Then hand-sanded to smooth out the bumpies. Once with #120; I'll go over it again with #240 tomorrow under different light.

    [​IMG]

    So about this neck: Stewmac clearance. MIC (made in Canada!). Birdseye maple, heel adjust, paddle headstock, satin nitro. Well aged:

    [​IMG]

    Just a couple days over 10 years old!! :eek: Guess they were not big sellers... Looks fine to me; the only thing that is sub-optimal is the heel adjust for the truss rod--that has always seemed dumb to me, and especially on a 22-fret neck. :neutral: Now I have to make a notch in the pocket and the PG. Still easier than building a neck, though. :lol:

    [​IMG]

    Anyways, after ten years, this neck has quite a nice color, and the satin nitro looks and feels fine, so I'm hoping I won't have to completely re-finish the neck. Unfortunately, when I cut my groovy headstock shape, the edge is going to be 1) freshly pale, and 2) unfinished, of course. I got some T-O here, and the plan is to dye the raw edge very slightly with a bit of brown and amber, then give it a few coats of T-O, and finish it with micromesh pads until it's roughly the same sheen as the nitro. I hope I can get close, and I REALLY hope I don't chip a bunch of the nitro off when I'm cutting the headstock... Wish me luck!

    But I'll let that wait until the paint is curing on the body. Tomorrow, the goals are:

    • Drill the neck holes
    • Locate the bridge
    • MAYBE route for the pickups and control cavity? (I'm considering waiting until after I do the round-over, so I can make sure the PG/control plate isn't too close to the edge...)
    • MAYBE test my paint scheme, if the weather is okay
     

  11. nickhofen

    nickhofen Friend of Leo's

    Nice work Rod and the neck is very beautiful.
     

  12. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Silver Supporter

    Jun 22, 2010
    Osaka, Japan

    Thanks, Nick! Yeah, it's pretty wood; hope I can shape it without incident... It's a pretty thin neck, much thinner than the ones I've made myself. I wonder how I'll get on with it.
     

  13. R. Stratenstein

    R. Stratenstein Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

    Aug 3, 2010
    Loganville, Ga.
    Very nicely done. Like the body shape a lot. Are we talkin Fender big-head shape here for the headstock?
     

  14. Jfellows

    Jfellows Tele-Afflicted

    Aug 23, 2012
    Tracy, California
    Hey Jup, looks like fun! Don't worry too much about that heel-adjust truss rod with the extension. I have done that on most of my builds because the 2-way rods work much better in a heel-adjust install unless you have an angled headstock. I haven't even worried about creating special access for it. What I have found is to use locking tuners. You will probably have to remove the neck a couple times during set up to adjust the truss rod, but if the strings are clamped in the locking tuners, that's really a snap. Loosen the strings, loosen the neck bolts, tilt neck back, 1/4 turn on the rod and tighten 'er back up again. For me, it's a minor inconvenience compared to the look of creating special access. Plus, once it's set up properly, it has to be adjusted so rarely after the first couple months that it has never bothered me. The locking tuners is the key to making it simple though.

    Looking forward to seeing your progress on this one.
     

  15. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Silver Supporter

    Jun 22, 2010
    Osaka, Japan
    Yeah, I'm thinking it needs some of that wacky CBS vibe. The paddle's not big enough for a real Jag headstock, and I need to put my little Jupiter swoosh on it somehow, but it'll be biggish. ;)

    Hmm, I do have have locking tuners (I'm trying out the Planet Waves trim-loks this time); it doesn't sound like too much of a hassle... I'll think about that.
     

  16. barbrainy

    barbrainy RIP

    Mar 2, 2012
    Northampton, UK
    You can do the same thing without locking tuners, but just use a capo at the first fret to keep the strings where they should be. I forgot to route a truss rod access bit on the purple tele I just made, and had to take the neck off several times during the setup. Slap the capo on the first fret, slacken the strings, take neck off. It seems like it's going to be more hassle than it actually is. It takes about one minute to do it.

    I mean, I still way prefer headstock access, but have the same view as Jonathan when it comes to using dual action truss rods without angled headstock.
     

  17. wadeeinkauf

    wadeeinkauf Tele-Holic

    596
    Sep 24, 2010
    Monterey CA
    Lessons learned

    Jupiter,
    I made a 89.3% sized Jag body...This turns to be the width and length of a tele thus the odd number. I am now building two more. What I found is if you are going use the tele style guitar cord jack if it is installed near when the tele is in relation to the pickup location I found it is in the way, especially if you are sitting down playing it. It sticks straight out and the cord then falls 90 degrees down.
    20150316_085009[1].jpg


    Also, You will have to find the right location to install your top strap pin in order to have the guitar balance the way you want it when hanging from the strap. The location I chose just by looks cause the guitar hang butt down. In my case I will need to move the pin more toward the neck to have it hang level.

    Untitled-1.jpg


    Wade
     

  18. oldrebel

    oldrebel Friend of Leo's Gold Supporter

    Oct 23, 2011
    Lynchburg Tennessee
    Looks like another great plan!!
     

  19. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Silver Supporter

    Jun 22, 2010
    Osaka, Japan

    Hey Wade!

    I'm going to use a Jag-style metal control plate (I got a face-palm story about that; tell ya later), so the cord will stick straight out of the top. Also, with the light cypress body, the reduced butt and the big headstock I got planned, I'm more worried about neck-dive than the reverse. :neutral: I'm planning to put the strap pin WAAY out on the tippy-tip--DANG! Forgot to order strap pins.... :lol:
     

  20. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Silver Supporter

    Jun 22, 2010
    Osaka, Japan
    Takes all day to do a couple hours' worth of work

    because I'm so easily distracted.

    The wife has taken the kids to Gram and Gramp's for a while, otherwise I wouldn't even be this far. :lol:

    Spent a large part of the day ordering stuff online; hope some of it arrives before my wife gets back!

    Anyway, filled some knotholes with Z-poxy:

    [​IMG]

    The stuff works great, but I always hesitate to use it because:
    • I make way more than I need to, to decrease the risk of getting the proportions wrong and ending up with rubber.
    • The stuff gets everywhere (I always wear nitrile gloves), and the unmixed resin and hardener is sticky forever.
    • I have to throw away the syringes after one use.

    I try to put enough on to account for shrinkage and air bubbles coming out, but not so much that I have a lot of unnecessary scraping/sanding to do. And I always have to dab a bit more on after 20 minutes or so...

    [​IMG]

    I managed to keep from having any run down the side this time! :cool:

    Parts have started to arrive. Got this super cheap bridge from China, because I need adjustable saddles. Naturally, it's a piece of crap. :lol:

    [​IMG]

    The saddles are too wide, so the intonation adjustment screws are all ****-eyed (will the auto-censor let me use that phrase?[edit: no it did not.] ). I guess I can grind 'em down. It'll take the chrome off, though....

    I ordered this one, and then I found a trem with a bridge that has height-adjustable saddles, so maybe I won't even need this one. I'll use whichever one is less crappy.

    Hm? That doesn't look right...

    [​IMG]

    Ah, that's better.

    [​IMG]

    Evidently, it is not obvious to the ignorant and/or careless observer that the Jazz Bass and Mustang control plates are not the same...

    [​IMG]

    Now I gotta build a dang bass. :mad:

    Here's the PU plan: one lippy at the neck, with an on/off switch wired in parallel with the two lippies at the bridge (a little bit spaced apart), which are wired together (RWRP) in series, with an on/off/on switch that will give me either both together or just the bridge-most one. Gonna take some puzzling to figure that wiring out...

    [​IMG]

    Z-poxy sands real nice. :)

    [​IMG]

    Tuners: Planet Waves Auto-Trim locking tuners. I actually wanted the Hipshot open-gear tuners that I put on my last build--I think those are my favorites of all the different tuners I've used--but couldn't source them in Japan at a reasonable price. I was interested in these, though, so I went with them as my second choice.

    [​IMG]

    For some reason, the posts are black, even on the "chrome" and "gold" machines; I don't know why. It was almost a deal-breaker (several guys on the Web rejected them for the same reason), but the knobs and slider switches are black, so maybe these will "tie the room together".

    [​IMG]

    12.7mm (half-inch) radius roundover on the back; 9mm around the heel.

    [​IMG]

    I went for a smaller radius around the heel so my neck ferrules wouldn't have to be inset too deep, but I also took a bit extra off the corner. It's always a balancing act for me at the heel, to get good upper fret access without sacrificing stability of the pocket, because I got little Tinkerbell hands. :oops: I'm being a little bit conservative this time because the body is on the thin side (1.6"), and the hinoki (cypress) is softer than the Indonesian mahogany I used the last two times around.

    [​IMG]

    Switches came this afternoon! One less purchase to have to explain to the wife. :cool:

    [​IMG]

    I wish I was a better shopper in Japan; I tend to buy the first thing I can find that meets my needs, and I'm impatient about deliveries from China, unless it's a LOT cheaper. 1500yen (about 12 bucks) seems like a lot for that on/off/on slider...

    Ferrules are located on the corners of a 40 x 28mm rectangle. On my last two builds, I rounded off the heels more, so the ferrules had to go in a weird asymmetrical/trapezoidal configuration, but on this one, I was able to line 'em up nicely. I'm more ADHD than OCD, but it still pleased me. :D

    [​IMG]

    Easy peasy!

    [​IMG]

    On my three previous builds, I didn't even start the neck until the paint was drying on the body, but since I got this neck already, I'm going to have the luxury this time of mounting the neck and even test-fitting everything before I paint.

    But now I'm kinda stuck until my trem arrives. I'm not confident that the specs will match Fender's, so I can't locate or route anything until I have the actual item in my hands, which means I can't do the pickguard either, and I'd rather not do the roundover on top until I have the cavity routing finished.

    Maybe I'll clean the house tomorrow. :idea:

    BTW, if the original Jagstang had a 24" scale length and a 22-fret neck, is it reasonable to assume that the bridge will need to be moved back .75" to accommodate a 25.5" scale length 22-fret neck built to Fender specs?? I'm planning to measure it out anyway, but I want to confirm my understanding...
     

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