Alright, so I got the body all cut out this evening in between a constant stream of miscellaneous interruptions. So... here goes nothing! First step was to clean the face mill for flattening the spoil board on the bed of the machine. The adhesive in mdf does a number to gunking up the cutting edges of the face mill, so a nice little bath in some oven cleaner. Snapped this photo mid cut, I set it to take .03" because I wasn't sure how far out overall it would be, and I wasn't in the mood to break out a dial indicator to find out. Then I ran my tool path simulation for the back over and over making sure everything was exactly as it should be. I find the simulations to be extremely beneficial as it helps me fully visualize everything, and avoid stupid mistakes, at least in the machining phase. Once everything checked out, I was good to go. Since I'm only making one of these guitars right now, making a fixture would be kind of a waste of time, so I simply mark the outline of the body on the spoil board, and align the body blank over that. Double sided tape is my preferred fixturing method for one-off parts, and prototypes. I applied three strips to the front of the blank, since I will start machining on the back of the body. And stick the blank face down on the bed of the machine. I decided to use the face mill to do the final flattening/thicknessing. This will help to ensure my parts are milled very accurately in depth. I machined it to 1.77" thick while it is back up, and I will surface the front, and take it to final thickness when I get there. I then went ahead and started on the 3D surfaces on the back of the guitar, that's the belly cut, and the contoured heel. I used a 1/2" ball mill to accomplish this. Following the 3D surfaces, I loaded up the 1/2" end mill, and machined the neck bolt ferrule recesses, the control cavity, control cavity cover plate recess, and a shallow, slightly oversized tracing of the body outline. My little friend, the 1/8" end mill then came out to play. And he was kind enough to cut the string ferrule holes, and drill the neck bolt holes, and string through holes for me. Call it the skeptic, or maybe it's the machinst in me, but I like to check my hole sizes. So I first checked the string ferrule holes with my small hole gauge. Mic'ing (it's a word, just trust me) over that showed that I was at .3128". My target was .3125" so I was within .0003" or 3/10000" or for those weird folks that like the metric system .0076mm of my target, which is more than good enough for wood. Next I checked my neck bolt ferrule holes with a telescoping gauge. My target with .625" and I was getting approximately .6204" on all four holes, so I popped back on the PC and made an adjustment to the program before running the program over, and thus time I hit .6257" I'm thrilled to be within a thou of my target (won't be tomorrow...) so I moved forward. I then took the body off of the machine, and cut nice and close to that outline I traced previously on the machine. At this point I stuck some 1/8" pins in one neck bolt hole, and one string ferrule hole to serve as location pins, drilled a couple 1/8" holes in the spoil board corresponding to the location of those holes in the body, applied double sided tape to the back of the body, and attached the body to the table. And back to the face mill to flatten the top and bring it to final thickness. And checking the body thickness I get 1.754" which is perfect because the tape is .004" thick. I decided to start out the top side with the 1/2" end mill, which I used to trim the sides to final shape and size in two passes, as well as route the neck pocket, and pickup cavities.