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That's it; I want a piney!

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Telemaestro, May 12, 2017.

  1. Telemaestro

    Telemaestro Tele-Meister

    Sep 20, 2013
    Hartville, Ohio
    Alright, so I got the body all cut out this evening in between a constant stream of miscellaneous interruptions. So... here goes nothing!

    First step was to clean the face mill for flattening the spoil board on the bed of the machine. The adhesive in mdf does a number to gunking up the cutting edges of the face mill, so a nice little bath in some oven cleaner.


    Snapped this photo mid cut, I set it to take .03" because I wasn't sure how far out overall it would be, and I wasn't in the mood to break out a dial indicator to find out.


    Then I ran my tool path simulation for the back over and over making sure everything was exactly as it should be. I find the simulations to be extremely beneficial as it helps me fully visualize everything, and avoid stupid mistakes, at least in the machining phase. Once everything checked out, I was good to go.


    Since I'm only making one of these guitars right now, making a fixture would be kind of a waste of time, so I simply mark the outline of the body on the spoil board, and align the body blank over that.


    Double sided tape is my preferred fixturing method for one-off parts, and prototypes. I applied three strips to the front of the blank, since I will start machining on the back of the body.


    And stick the blank face down on the bed of the machine.


    I decided to use the face mill to do the final flattening/thicknessing. This will help to ensure my parts are milled very accurately in depth. I machined it to 1.77" thick while it is back up, and I will surface the front, and take it to final thickness when I get there.



    I then went ahead and started on the 3D surfaces on the back of the guitar, that's the belly cut, and the contoured heel. I used a 1/2" ball mill to accomplish this.





    Following the 3D surfaces, I loaded up the 1/2" end mill, and machined the neck bolt ferrule recesses, the control cavity, control cavity cover plate recess, and a shallow, slightly oversized tracing of the body outline.




    My little friend, the 1/8" end mill then came out to play. And he was kind enough to cut the string ferrule holes, and drill the neck bolt holes, and string through holes for me.





    Call it the skeptic, or maybe it's the machinst in me, but I like to check my hole sizes. So I first checked the string ferrule holes with my small hole gauge. Mic'ing (it's a word, just trust me) over that showed that I was at .3128". My target was .3125" so I was within .0003" or 3/10000" or for those weird folks that like the metric system .0076mm of my target, which is more than good enough for wood.



    Next I checked my neck bolt ferrule holes with a telescoping gauge. My target with .625" and I was getting approximately .6204" on all four holes, so I popped back on the PC and made an adjustment to the program before running the program over, and thus time I hit .6257" I'm thrilled to be within a thou of my target (won't be tomorrow...) so I moved forward.





    I then took the body off of the machine, and cut nice and close to that outline I traced previously on the machine.



    At this point I stuck some 1/8" pins in one neck bolt hole, and one string ferrule hole to serve as location pins, drilled a couple 1/8" holes in the spoil board corresponding to the location of those holes in the body, applied double sided tape to the back of the body, and attached the body to the table.






    And back to the face mill to flatten the top and bring it to final thickness.




    And checking the body thickness I get 1.754" which is perfect because the tape is .004" thick.


    I decided to start out the top side with the 1/2" end mill, which I used to trim the sides to final shape and size in two passes, as well as route the neck pocket, and pickup cavities.


    Barncaster likes this.
  2. Telemaestro

    Telemaestro Tele-Meister

    Sep 20, 2013
    Hartville, Ohio
    Up next was out old fried the 1/8" end mill. This time he cut the control holes, and drilled the bridge mounting holes, the string through holes from the top, and the neck bolt holes from the top.




    Nextly the little 1/16" end mill to drill the pickguard screw holes.



    Finally the 1/2" ball mill again, this time for the arm cut.



    I was pleased once I had the body off the machine to see that my holes from the top and bottom respectively for the string through and neck bolts aligned beautifully in the middle.



    Here's a few shots of the rough cut body.




    Round overs, sanding, and side jack hole to follow at a later date.


  3. Jupiter

    Jupiter Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

    Jun 22, 2010
    Osaka, Japan
    That's a beaut!
    Telemaestro likes this.
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  5. oldrebel

    oldrebel Friend of Leo's

    Oct 23, 2011
    Lynchburg Tennessee
    That looks great. Love seeing the CNC in action.
    Johnson johnson and Telemaestro like this.
  6. Telemaestro

    Telemaestro Tele-Meister

    Sep 20, 2013
    Hartville, Ohio
    Thanks, Jupiter! It feels good to be back building some guitars. It's been too long.
  7. Telemaestro

    Telemaestro Tele-Meister

    Sep 20, 2013
    Hartville, Ohio
    Thanks! Yeah, I've spent the past few years really getting into using CNC routers and CAD/CAM, and applying them to guitar making. Some people think it takes the skill out, but I've built enough guitars without them, that I don't feel like I have anything to prove, and they require a skill set all their own.
    Johnson johnson and Felino like this.
  8. gigs

    gigs TDPRI Member

    Nov 9, 2012
    pittsburgh, pa
    really nice so far....
    Telemaestro likes this.
  9. adirondak5

    adirondak5 Wood Hoarder Extraordinaire Ad Free + Supporter

    Oct 24, 2009
    Long Island NY
    Very nice work
    Telemaestro likes this.
  10. MM73

    MM73 Tele-Afflicted

    Feb 24, 2015
    South Lyon, MI
    Fantastic! Really enjoy the CNC work.
    Telemaestro likes this.
  11. Barncaster

    Barncaster Poster Extraordinaire

    Feb 3, 2010
    Santa Rosa, CA
  12. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

    Mar 27, 2012
    Calgary, Alberta
    Awesome! Great to see you posting a build again..
    Telemaestro likes this.
  13. Telemaestro

    Telemaestro Tele-Meister

    Sep 20, 2013
    Hartville, Ohio
    Thanks, Ricky! Feels good to be posting again! Hoping to get some more done tonight. My carbon fiber just showed up, and I'm back from out of town.

  14. Telemaestro

    Telemaestro Tele-Meister

    Sep 20, 2013
    Hartville, Ohio
    Alright, just a little update tonight. I foolishly forgot to check my pocket depths before I pulled the body off the machine, so after returning from being out of town I did a quick check of the neck pocket depth. The target was .625" to check the depth I grabbed a .100" gauge block, and my depth micrometers. I placed the gauge block in the bottom of the neck pocket, and used the depth mic to check the depth. I used the gauge block there in order to distribute any pressure from the rod of the depth mic so as to not compress the wood fibers, and get an inaccurate measurement. And I used a .100" because it's a nice round number to add to my measurement. As you can see, the depth mic reads just a hair under (this depth mic doesn't have 1/10000" marks) .5265" so I'm quite pleased with that especially considering the body has been sitting for almost a week.




    In other good news, my carbon fiber for my neck showed up. It's 48" long so I'll get enough for 2 or three necks depending on how long I decide to make the insert.


    That's all for now!

    awasson likes this.
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