That moment when you realise ... you made a mistake...

Discussion in 'Other T-Types and Partscasters' started by bb_matt, May 18, 2019.

  1. bb_matt

    bb_matt Tele-Meister

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    ...yeah, that part.

    So, my first guitar project is proceeding and I'm buying parts for the project.
    I have a 2017 'vintage' fender tele which I absolutely love and decided, in order to learn more, I'd get a cheap clone, strip it & replace pretty much all but the body & neck.

    It's now dawning on me - and this is the mistake - that I'd be putting good parts onto what I'm starting to realise, is a bad body and neck.

    I'm spending a reasonable amount of money on parts.
    I've got some wilkinson machine heads, a Gotho/Wilkinson adjustable saddle, tonerider hot classics bridge and neck pickups and I'm in the middle of getting some other decent electronics - either CTS pots or possibly fender ones, along with a new control plate and knobs.

    So yeah, nothing ridiculously fancy, but equivalent to the parts on my real tele.

    I'm thinking I may cut my losses on the cheap tele I got and sell it on eBay as a partscaster project - all the parts I took off it are bagged up neatly. I'll probably take a loss of 40%.

    Why do I think the neck and body are bad?
    Because it's a $100 guitar and ... they just don't feel or look quite right.
    I've had a quick check of the neck scale by doing a comparison with my fender tele - and what scares me is some frets align at the bottom and top of the neck, but some in the middle are out by as much as 2mm. That's not good.

    The body has very visible seams between SIX different wood sections and the neck pocket has a very loose fit.

    If anyone can convince me this is just fine, that would be good, but my gut feeling is, if I'm going to do this right, it would be far wiser to buy a quality neck/body kit.
     
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  2. Dennyf

    Dennyf Tele-Afflicted

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    Yeah, i have a lot of those moments
     
  3. Piggy Stu

    Piggy Stu Friend of Leo's

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    If you were my buddy I would counsel you to remember this is just a hobby, not life or death, and most hobbies lose people a fortune with nothing to show for it

    I would imagine the 2 situations: which would you be happiest with at the end? Forget the money bit
     
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  4. Deeve

    Deeve Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Here's another approach:
    go to Reverb & search for one (or more) of those "soft market" used Kirns.
    You'll get a good neck & body.
    And, there'll be no need to change hardware for "better".

    Ask around - not many folk use the words "mistake" and "Kirn" in the same sentence.

    Peace - Deeve
     
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  5. 24 track

    24 track Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    I got a chibson, yeah i know , Blah ,Blah , but the body and neck were absoutely fine straight and comfortable to play no issues , I got all real gibson parts off kijiji for dirt cheap, like machine heads the real deal not epi , but real gibson 40.00, 490R ,498T pickups , all gibson controls , pots caps switchcraft jack, & switch 100.00 , gibson ABR1 bridge 40.00 ( these are canuckian pesos) and I applied them to a 200.00 chibson plus I used gibson pull back braided shielded wire, all I accomplished was to put better parts onto an inexpensive guitar, that played well but now plays and sounds better, and I love the guitar . 380.00 complete and I'm happy plus I got an education as to the mechanics of a chibson ,and I can now spot one fron 10 miles away.
    I wanted a negative so I would not be fooled by a false possitive.and it worked for me (plus its lefthanded)



    P1011366.JPG
     
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  6. bb_matt

    bb_matt Tele-Meister

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    Thanks for the tips guys - that's a really neat 'Chibson' you've crafted there @24 track !

    Thing is, I'm trying not to bite off more than I can chew with this, my first build. I don't want to have to do any re-fretting, or any serious body adjustments.
    Bottom line, I want to paint up a body & then assemble with the new parts I've purchased, then do a setup - with a new nut too.

    IOW, the body and neck need to be about as finished as they can get - which is why I opted for the tele clone. (chelecaster? ;) )

    I have ideas for the pickguard and my ultimate goal, is to create what I'm going to call 'Modcaster' - so the body will be a light blue swirl pattern and the pickguard will have the mod target on it.
    I've ordered 1mm thick clear perspex sheets and I will sandwich a mod target inbetween two sheets. I may also get some flat control knobs and glue on rounded perspex tops with the mod logo under.

    As I go forward with this, I'd want to replace the neck inlays also with mod targets - depending on how cheesy this could end up looking?

    That's the idea - but the body and neck have to be right, else it's a waste of time.
     
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  7. Lonn

    Lonn Friend of Leo's

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    Hit any pawnshop near you and get the first Squier you can lay your hands on. Perfect modding platforms.
     
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  8. Matthias

    Matthias Tele-Afflicted

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    Parts you put in can come back out later. Most of those are decent but not top-drawer parts... At most equal to modern MiM since they started using more alnico pups and importing decent Korean hardware. I’d stick with it or get an unfinished body/neck and finish them in oil. As long as the body and neck are finished OK and play well, they will do the job.
     
  9. bondoman

    bondoman Tele-Meister

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    Ehh. That aint nothing. I'm the master when it comes to this. At the moment I'm doing a First Act 5 series that cost me a whopping $15 bucks. Pickups are Kent Armstrong P90 and 4 wire HB set that were designed for the FACS Sheena. I got connections. The bridge is a Schaller hardtail roller and the tuners are Hipshot lockers. Then when you add in the pots and switch that's easily $250+ in a $15 dollar guitar not to mention the refinish. Paint aint cheap these days. Satisfaction level 100%. Yea bitches this is a First Act. How you like me now?
     
  10. rad1

    rad1 Tele-Afflicted

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    I just put all new everything into a 15 yr old Epi Les Paul. The Gibson p90’s, pots, switch and the jack together cost me more than I paid for the guitar.

    However, I don’t care. I loved doing it.
     
  11. davenumber2

    davenumber2 Friend of Leo's

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    Pics or it didn’t happen.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  12. urbandefault

    urbandefault Tele-Meister

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    I'd unload the cheap copy, get a decent body and neck, do a simple finish, and load it up with your parts.
     
  13. Esckrimador

    Esckrimador TDPRI Member

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    Down the rabbit hole....
     
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  14. bondoman

    bondoman Tele-Meister

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    20190508_191653.jpg 20190518_211102.jpg
     
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  15. bb_matt

    bb_matt Tele-Meister

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    Right, thanks folks, I know what I'm going to do - get a squier dirt cheap.
    ... if I can find one.

    Over here in the UK, pawn shops kinda died a death I'm not even sure how long ago. I think a lot turned into charity shops and the charity shops became upmarket. Pawn shops used to be everywhere when I was a kid. I guess now people put stuff online to sell, so you end up having to pay more than you used to.

    The most annoying thing is, my wife spotted a squier going for £25 (about $30 US) or best offer down the town hall market - and that just never happens around here!, she took photo's and sent them to me, but I was busy doing noisy DIY and didn't see them. The pics showed a squier in very good condition - damn.

    So, to eBay it is ... that great big lucky dip...
     
  16. Matthias

    Matthias Tele-Afflicted

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    Try searching for “collection only” listings, using the filters. They usually have fewer bids on common things like Squiers and a lot of people are scared to post guitars that don’t have a case. I saw a Squier Jag go for £101 the other day.
     
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  17. bb_matt

    bb_matt Tele-Meister

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    Right, just an hour or so later, after more research, I'm going to do even more research ;)
    Looked at a few squire guitars on eBay and did a little research on the build types - found a chinese made one from 2000 (with the crafted in china text), seems like the body is generally also a six piece, usually pine, basswood or popular - the only difference is going to be the shape.
    So that leaves the problematic neck I have, with a scale that is almost certainly out.

    Sod it, I'm going to go with what I've got and see what it turns out like. It's my first build and all the parts I've got are good to go onto another body/neck any time I want - time to stop procrastinating and time to get sanding that body ... :D
     
  18. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Silver Supporter

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    I spent a fair amount of money on a Warmoth boatneck profile neck, only to realize that I prefer a modern C/oval.

    Eventually a rasp and sandpaper fixed that issue, but I never woulda known until I tried!
     
  19. bb_matt

    bb_matt Tele-Meister

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    Yeah, ain't that exactly what it's all about? You can watch all the youtube videos under the sun, but until you get your hands dirty, you never know how it's going to turn out.

    So, I bit the bullet, stopped procrastinating and continued with the project.

    orbital-sanding.jpg sanded-rubbed.jpg primer-first-coat.jpg

    So, what's going on here is the easy bit of the paint job. This is the only time I'll have the luxury of using an orbital sander for the flat faces.
    I sanded the front and back with 240, then 480 grit and manually sanded the sides with the same.
    This took off the shine and the plastic coating and left a rough enough surface.

    I then carefully screwed a bit of scrap wood into the neck pocket area, clamped it up and applied a light rubbing alcohol over the surface to get any finger print grease off.

    Then in the third photo, this is the first coat of acrylic primer.

    I'm doing the primer with a brush, as the paint job is going to be a paint pour - plus, right now, I don't have the space for a spray booth with ventilation fan.
    Right now, it doesn't make much difference, so long as the final primer is smoothed with sanding.

    Also, this is the recommended method to prime wood for an acrylic paint pour - may as well do it right, right? ;)

    I'll be doing 3 layers of primer, an hour to dry between each, as smooth as I possibly can.
    Then let the 3rd layer dry for 24 hours.
    Then sand with 800 & 1200 grit. This is going to take a while for the first sand, as no matter how smooth I try to get with a brush, there's going to be a very uneven surface in places, with brush marks.
    Then apply another layer, dry for 24 hours.
    Sand again.
    A final layer for good measure, then sand.

    Then it'll be the paint pour on the first side.
    The paint pour is going to be acrylics - my wife does paint pours, so she knows her stuff.
    She's the one who said I'd need at least 5 coats of primer, sanded. She's got all sorts of tricks and techniques for smooth and flowing pours, using a butane torch to make the colours pop etc.
    This will take up to 3 weeks to properly dry, before I do the next side.
    Another 3 weeks.
    Then I sand - first I'll try 1200 grit, I want to go easy at this stage, as the paint pour followed by a butane torch blast, ends up pretty flat. The butane pulls out air bubbles and also really brings out weird and amazing bits of colour.
    Then it's urethane spraying time - probably 4 coats with fine sanding between each.
    Finally, some polish.

    Easy :D
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2019
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  20. Matthias

    Matthias Tele-Afflicted

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    That's not a bad body. Looks pretty similar to alder... From your description I'd guess some species of basswood/linden, but that doesn't look like a bad bit of wood.

    I remember when cheap guitars were hideous plywood affairs :D
     
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