Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups

Sweet Little Angel

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by BluesBlooded, Mar 30, 2016.

  1. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

    Thanks Rich, note, that I can screw up with conventional tools, you'll see.

    Made the template.


    Tested the fit


    Cut the mahogany in two. The narrower one I'll use now for this neck since it's painted, I will glue wings and it won't show


    Cut close to the line


    Attached the template and proceeded to route




    Routed the truss rod channel


    Then wanted to enlarge the channel access, so moved the fence one side perfectly, then on the other side, I got a brain absence and moved it a full 1/4 in. Don't ask, I don't know why. Just felt the logic thing to do.


    That will be an easy fix that I'll take care when I glue the wings on the headstock

    The width of the tenon is perfect. I will need to adjust the fit, but that's for another day


    Got to this point far faster than yesterday and had a lot more fun.
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2018
  2. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

    Mar 30, 2003
    Ontario County
    In case you change your mind, you can always do a Gibson style after jointing the fretboard surface and cutting the truss rod channel. I always rout the perimeter first, do the tenon, and then the neck carve. You can do the whole neck except for the elevated part of the peghead without moving the x0y0z0, which I make centered on top of the heel. Might be worth the effort to see if you like it that way. On these I did the other stuff first and left it a rectangle on my registration surface so I could rout in the truss rod slot on the router table.

    Last edited: Jun 10, 2018
  3. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

    I know you are right as most of time.

    I may revisit this at one point. It's just that I'm having less fun when I see the machine screwing things up than when I screw up things myself.

    I remember shaping the neck by hand with your facet technique provided me with much more gratification than watching the machine do it.

    I have mitigated feeling about the CNC. I have to revisit my expectations. It's incredible the number of hours I spent trying to model the neck and the tool path to see everything go to the garbage bin. Yesterday, I took picture and was ready to list it.

    This is a hobby, therefore must provide satisfaction. I already have a job that keeps me unhappy, do not need my hobby to provide the same feeling.

    But on the other hand, when it works great, I love it. I love it as a cutting tool and what it can do.

    It's a love / hate relationship thus far.
  4. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

    Mar 30, 2003
    Ontario County

    I totally get that Andre.... Imagine the sick feeling when a router bit drops down in the wrong spot into your 100 dollar fiddleback maple top earmarked for a LP>….I picked up my keyboard and hit some key that sends the router home or something like that.
    BluesBlooded likes this.
  5. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

    I know the feeling. I think the hardest part for me is not having total control over what is going on.
  6. R. Stratenstein

    R. Stratenstein Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

    Aug 3, 2010
    Loganville, Ga.
    I sort of have it in my mind that if I ever got a CNC, I’d have everything plugged into a single power strip, and the plug for the power strip tied to a red rope, and the red rope’s other end tied around my wrist at all times while the CNC is running . . .o_O
  7. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

    :lol: It be funny to see you in one of your videos throwing yourself on the floor to stop the CNC.

    Seriously, I have an emergency button and keep close to it when I start a program, because usually if something is gon'a go wrong, you will see it right from the start. After that I usually tend to other task in the shop and keep an ear and eye out for problems.

    But with more complex program like this neck, I tend to stay very close to the machine and stare at it hoping it does what I think it will.

    These programs do repetitive things. For instance, they will start to carve the wood at some depth. Once the first pass is completed, you know it will repeat a similar pattern deeper and deeper. So there is nothing much to worry about once you know it started as expected. When I see it is getting closer to final depth, I go back to it and watch carefully, expecting it to end shortly.

    That is sometime disconcerting. For instance, yesterday, most of the work was fine. (apart from the collet hitting the side walls of lumber, which I addressed by cutting some wood to provide clearance). I know my stock is 70mm thick, So when I saw the router working at -65mm I got back and watched carefully, going down expecting to stop after it reaches -70mm or so. Then I see it dropping to -73mm depth, wondering what is going on and why in the heck would it do that. Not stopping it because this is the roughing stage and I want it to go to the next phase of Z levelling and then Planar, and then around 12 other steps with different bits So I do not want to stop it, not sure if I will be able to restart it without redoing the tool path.

    I'm still carefully watching, the hand on the red button making sure it clears the walls of wood still there.

    Now everything goes ok, and it reaches the end of the sequence, expecting to go to the next phase, watching silently, almost praying this passes is the end of it, still watching because I know where this cycle will end and here it goes, reaches the end, watching carefully, expecting the Z to go up above 0 and move to the second phase, but no, Z drops to -76mm depth, WTF, WHY, what did I do to deserve this. That is when I threw myself on the red button and stopped everything.

    I cursed, and cursed some more, maybe that is counterproductive with the praying part.

    Now that it is stopped. I need to go inside, rethink my tool path. So I split every subsequent phases into individual files. In total for the back side of the neck, I get 13 files. Different steps, roughing, Z levelling, planar, different areas, different tools, different depth limits based on the length of the bit I'm using, and so on.

    I go back, and start with file #2 and so on. Everything ran fine until file #12, where it hit the wood block at the end. File #13 is the truss rod channel and that fails too.

    Being a good CNC operator is not that easy. There is a lot of things to take into account when you operate it.

    Of course some 2.5D stuff, you can master rapidly. But real 3d work, taking into account the material and different tooling requires a lot of practice. You need to accept you will ruin a lot of things before you master this. This is where I'm not patient enough. I think I'm already a master because I created the 3D model.

    Well that is enough ranting for today.
  8. 2blue2

    2blue2 Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

    Jul 20, 2013
    Island of Oahu

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  9. R. Stratenstein

    R. Stratenstein Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

    Aug 3, 2010
    Loganville, Ga.

    Well, I think that just about seals the deal, Excuse me while I go down to the shop and kiss my little band saw right on the lips. :p The feed mechanism is pretty stupid, but I know how to deal with him, at least most of the time. :lol:
  10. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

    Barncaster likes this.
  11. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

    Started to test my inlays


    At first I wanted to make them with a dark wood, but then I remembered I had resin I could dye black. It will be easier and will provide the look I'm going after.



    Spent a bit of time working on the neck fit


    Finally went to the lumber yard to pick 116BF of Hickory for the dinner table and bar top.


    Looks like Lucille is going on the back burner for a while.
    Barncaster likes this.
  12. RogerC

    RogerC Poster Extraordinaire

    Mar 30, 2011

  13. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

    Mar 30, 2003
    Ontario County
    Hickory i

    Hickory is one hard wood. I built a stereo cabinet and coffee table out of it when I was in Texas ( Pecan/Hickory are interchanged a lot in the hardwood world...). Sharp corners are like a razors edge.
    BluesBlooded likes this.
  14. R. Stratenstein

    R. Stratenstein Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

    Aug 3, 2010
    Loganville, Ga.
    What ?? What??? You gonna leave us hangin' with that picture of the black blob not sanded back so we can see how cool that resin inlay looks? :mad::mad::lol::lol::lol:

    But congrats, it looks like the CNC did a perfect job of excavating the inlay cavities. You're back on top! :D
    BluesBlooded likes this.
  15. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

    Sorry Rog, Table top first, I still will do a bit of work on Lucille from time to time

    Marty, thanks for the heads up, I will make sure I round the edges so no one gets hurt.

    Thanks Rick, No worries, in a couple of days I will sand that blob and we will see how it looks. CNC worked as expected. No surprises, no cursing.:)
    Barncaster likes this.
  16. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

    My fretboard will be unconventional.

    To achieve the look I'm aiming for, I will do the fretboard in several steps

    1. shape the radius
    2. Lacquer the fretboard white and let it dry
    3. Cut the pockets for the inlay
    4. Pour the black casting resin, let it cure
    5. Sand the resin down to the level of the fretboard
    6. Spray several coats of lacquer, let dry
    7. Wet sand until shinny
    8. Cut the fret slots
    9. Glue the fretboard on the neck
    10. Install the frets
    11. Bind the fretboard
    Here are the two first step done. The three holes at each end are registration holes so the CNC knows where to cut the inlay and the fret slots


    imploration, Barncaster and RogerC like this.
  17. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Silver Supporter

    Jun 22, 2010
    Osaka, Japan
    Man, if there was ever a reason to not give up on the CNC, that joint between the neck and the body is IT! Gawd I spent SO MANY HOURS on that, you coulda screwed up five neck blanks and got the sixth one finished in the same amount of time...
    Barncaster and nickhofen like this.
  18. nickhofen

    nickhofen Friend of Leo's

    Nice work Andre,I am glad to see that your CNC can do precise cuts again!
    What bit did you use for the inlays?
  19. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

    It's faith will be determined by the happy/mad ratio it will provide in the future. Precision is one thing that makes me happy. Happy is still ahead.:)

    How's that car painter hunting going?

    Nick, I used a 0.8mm end mill from drillman. Provides better details in the corners. I ran it at 1000mm per minute and took 0.4mm deep passes. Worked like a charm.
    Barncaster and nickhofen like this.
  20. adirondak5

    adirondak5 Wood Hoarder Extraordinaire

    Oct 24, 2009
    Long Island NY
    I get about all my small bits from drillman . They are good bits for not a lot of money .
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