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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by newuser1, Mar 1, 2017.
Then you must be making your teles about .6" shorter than normal. The string-thru holes are 5.15" from the bottom end, and a 9" drill press only has 4.5" between the post and the bit.
Nope! Using Ron's template. I mean, there's like 1/8" between the guitar butt & the post, but it works.
That's exactly what I need. It would make my 10" DP around 14.5". Someone should sell that!
I'm confused how you're getting 4.5" to reach to over 5"
Me too. I googled Ryobi 9" drill press and don't see one listed. You sure it's not 10"? They are listed.
Try to get a grip on how perfect you want this to be...because that can drive a lot of spending on tools. Check out this nugget of info from the Excel list I made for my first build...
89 items purchased to build my guitar. Average cost was $14.20 each, spread out over the course of a year long build. Buy a spindle sander and place a couple tool orders to Stewmac, and you could be well on your way! $20 per week on "stuff" can add up fast!
No regrets though. I had my second build planned about 20 minutes after my first neck blank fit the body template.
Had I not jumped all in on another tool purchase this year, my second and third build would be getting done for not much more than the cost of materials.
Apparently the Home Depot I was in recently had the signage wrong. The tag on it said 9", but online it says 10". Alternatively I'm going blind way quicker than I thought....
Anyway, the overall point remains that the basic $100ish drill press will work for the job.
I started with a small basement shop that's been perfectly adequate for other things and I thought would be fairly well equipped for making a guitar. I was only partly right. Since I first began contemplating this project I've been constantly upgrading and ordering new tools and supplies. I've also learned to do some new things with what I have. No regrets though. All of these new tools and techniques will be put to use on future projects... like my next guitar!
I have a Ryobi 10" and it's about 1/8 inch short of what's needed. What does yours measure from bit to support column?
Common advice use to be get a 12" drill press (minimum size) to get to those string through holes or bridge mount holes on a tele body . I double checked the string through measurements on a few CAD files I have and get 5.150" from the edge . A "true" 10" swing drill press will not reach , now thats not to say that there isnt a 10" press out there thats really 10.5" or 11" swing , there probably is , there are probably some that are only 9.5" swing too . If you are shopping for a press probably best to look at 12" presses minimum . If you are handy there are ways to adapt a 10" press as Marty has already posted .
My first couple builds I had a DP that was too small, and it was still a very valuable tool. I used it to rough out the outline (because I didn't have a bandsaw), remove initial material from cavities, spindle sand, thickness sand, drill the holes I could reach, and make jigs for the holes I couldn't reach.
If you can get one that reaches all the parts of a guitar, that is great. But if you are on a budget and see a small one for free or really cheap, I'd still grab it. Plus, there are a million things around the house you can fix with a drill press. It is not a bad tool to own.
Finally today I tried some of my new tools as the weather was nice and I was able to work outside on the deck. I tried cutting a template from 1/4" birch plywood and wasn't really impressed with the results (see the pic below). I cut the shape roughly with a jigsaw and then sanded with my new spindle sander, and now and need to finish the fine details with a file.
Any tips on avoiding chipping the plywood while cutting and sanding?
Any advice on a good set of files suitable for guitar making (both body and neck)?
I also used the spindle sander to sand down my experimental pine body, and the result wasn't that bad (see below). I need to finish the pine body with a file as well.
While I was working with the spindle sander the sandpaper sleeve of the largest drum was constantly going up and I had to stop the sander and push it back down. Is this normal? Is this because of lack of skills on my end - I was going too hard maybe in the parts of the body that required a 1/4" or more of sanding? Is this because this is a crappy sander (https://www.lowes.ca/benchtop-sande...gclid=COqTiYbg49ICFQmOaQodPo0Plw&gclsrc=aw.ds)
Perhaps you need a finer blade for thinner plywood? I think a jigsaw will be rough no matter what you cut. Sometimes the sleeves on the spindle sanders don't fit the rubber drums. Make sure the drum nut is tight. That expands the rubber drum outward.
I'll try finner blade, on my next template.
For my first build I'm planning to buy a cheap neck, and was wondering if one of these would work?
or maybe just get a cheap DIY kit so I can use both the neck and electronics?
Any other vendors of decent and inexpensive DIY kits or just necks and hardware packs?
I'm trying to get rid of the warp on my experimental pine body and I tried using a sheet palm sander but is not working well
I just put the body on a flat surface and tried sanding the 2 opposite corners of the body that weren't rocking (assuming they were higher).
What type of sander do you use to get rid of warps? Any guidance on how to approach getting rid of the warp?
The typical way to handle it is with a drum sander, hand plane or a very wide bed jointer. Basically you just have to do anything you can to knock down the high spots. If all you have is a sander, then that's what you use with very coarse paper.
Do you mean a drum sander like this:
or like this:
For leveling a body the former was obviously implied. Those spindle sanders are good for sanding and shaping body edges in a drill press, but not those. They should be longer than the thickness of the body. I just got a set to use on my first build.