So I just tried to drain my water heater...

Discussion in 'Bad Dog Cafe' started by chet again, May 21, 2019.

  1. Teleguy61

    Teleguy61 Friend of Leo's

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    That is no lie.
    I live in Metrowest and it cost me $1500 for a water heater--highway robbery.
    We have a second home in the South Coast area. Similar, maybe even better, unit installed by an excellent master plumber=$750.

    Supply and demand in action.
     
  2. chet again

    chet again Tele-Meister

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    You sound like you did what I'm trying to do. Was it clogging up the drain hole? Oh, I see that it was leaking on yours.
    I just bought a brass spigot and a cap for it. I also have the plastic junk drain which I'll take off as soon as I figure out which method will work to drain the water out.
    How old is your water heater? Were your heating elements OK? Did you replace the Anode Rod?
     
  3. chet again

    chet again Tele-Meister

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    I think they do might do that in my small town because the plumber may be part of the city government.

    A friend of mine knows how to replumb old houses so I will see if he can help me redo my plumbing. I want to move my bathroom to a bigger room with a big tub and maybe a separate shower. I have the old cast iron sewage pipes and I'd like to replace them with plastic. I'll pay a plumber to check it if I have to.
     
  4. Milspec

    Milspec Friend of Leo's

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    I just came back and read the prices you guys have been getting charged....you were robbed. It is not surprising, a plumber just quoted my Mother $1800 for a water heater as well...I replaced hers for $550. The key is to buy a water heater that is the same dimensions as the previous one so that you don't have to run new water lines, just a little flex couplers and done. I would still go with a natural gas tankless system rather than the traditional design, but still, buy one of the same height and do it yourself.
     
  5. Uncle Bob

    Uncle Bob Tele-Meister

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    Sorry I'm being slow to reply ... It's a gas heater, and the burner and all that is fine but they always are. Going by the label on the tank it's 15 years old but it seems more like 10 since we last replaced it.
     
  6. KG7IL

    KG7IL TDPRI Member

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    Chet-Again
    You did good shutting off the breaker and running cold until the tank water cools.

    As noted above, with drain hose installed, turn on cold water input to see if it blows it out.
    When it moves (if it moves), then shut off the cold input and open a high point hot water faucet to allow air in. Sometimes a tank won't drain if it is closed (input and faucets) because of vacuum in the tank.

    Another possibility is to reverse blow it, that is introduce air to mix-up the sediment and open it up for a solution of calcium, rather than a low layer. I would use a garden hose and ensure that the cold input is off, high point hot is open and use an air compressor nozzle with a rubber stopper, starting at a low pressure to see if you can get it moving. The hose end must be outdoors to allow it to drain..

    Short bursts of air should bubble the sediment out of the way.

    Search for #2 Rubber Stopper with one hole.
     
    Uncle Bob likes this.
  7. stxrus

    stxrus Friend of Leo's

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    That is a great idea. The old CI is failing due to age. Nothing lasts forever. Do it before you redo floors, etc.
    I have clients that think CI will last forever not the 40-50 year lifespan it really has
     
  8. Chunkocaster

    Chunkocaster Friend of Leo's

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    Pour a couple of bottle of CLR in there and see if that frees things up overnight.
    Then you could try pressurising it with air from a compressor. Can't you just remove the valve and drain it that way?
     
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