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Shoestring Acoustic Guitar Build Anyone Can Do

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by printer2, Jan 12, 2018.

  1. printer2

    printer2 Poster Extraordinaire

    May 24, 2010
    Canada
    Bending the sides. Bending softwoods can be difficult, one little trick is to give the wood a coating of fabric softener and let it sit for a while. I left it for about five hours then rinsed the boards and squeegeed them dry with my hand. I have a piece of pipe with a heater in it and I put a damp rag on it then work the wood over it rocking back and forth while bending. When the rag stops steaming I then move a damp area over the heater. A propane torch or an electric barbecue starter is sometimes used in a piece of muffler pipe for all those just jumping at the bit to make their own guitar. 'Hey, I can make a better one than this one!' Which is primarly the reason for this thread.

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    I do the waist bend first. The wood was cooperating with me today.

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    I then do the front then back bout. There is springback so I have to go over it a couple of times. I did both sides and will leave them overnight to dry. They were 0.080" thick and bent well probably because they were damp and maybe because of the fabric softener. When bending make sure you make a left side and a right side bend if you want the wood to end up with the same edge on the same side of the guitar (front or back).

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    A lot of work to get to this far. Now if you buy your wood ready cut it would be a few hours rather than a couple of days work.

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  2. printer2

    printer2 Poster Extraordinaire

    May 24, 2010
    Canada
    The sides holding their shape the next morning. That was almost too easy. In the background the 2" x 4" being glued together with a ton of clamps. I am guessing I probably could have had it clamped on the side that was to be the neck and the area that is going to be cut out could have been 'clamped' together by using some long screws. I would drill some undersized holes for the screws and use a bit and a hand drill to snug them up. Then use the clamps on the other side to squeeze the side together. An alternative I was going to use was a scarf joint and built up heel but that is covered enough. Just wanted to show this as an alternative option. I find the Spruce not much softer than Spanish Cedar

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    I always found lining up the end blocks and clamping them difficult. Then I had the thought to cut a 2" x 2" the distance between them and clamp them together with a long clamp. This way you could have them square to each other and when you are ready to glue the blocks to the top you just add glue and clamp the blocks to the top. There are pieces of wood under the top helping distribute the clamping force. I have been building without a mold for a while, the sides will get glued to the end blocks then I will add the lining. I have also used the spacer as shown and then slipped the sides into place and when dry did the kerfed lining as usually done. I have not worked out how I want the sides to meet the top on this one, with a radius built in or built flat, this gives me the option of going either way.

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    I was worried about the wood springing back once off the mold, instead the but end was a little too tight a radius. A little spritz of water and rock it a little on the clothes iron (Danger alert! Do Not use a woman's iron, or if you do put a sheet of paper between it and the wood in case any resin gets on the iron.) and the curve is in the acceptable range.

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    Trimmed where I doubled the thickness of the top with an exacto blade so that the sides butts up against the top. Don't ask me about bracing, I am just winging it. The top is being glued on to a flat side. I did glue the braces on with a radius sanded in them. The guitar will work things out.

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    guitarbuilder likes this.

  3. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

    Mar 30, 2003
    Ontario County
    Nothing pleases me more than to see somebody else think" out of the box" and do their own thing. Bravo!
     

  4. printer2

    printer2 Poster Extraordinaire

    May 24, 2010
    Canada
    When I worked for an aerospace manufacturer I was in the test lab. When some project came up the tech who was there for years would say they could not do it because they don't have the equipment or time. I would think that the testing sounds interesting, given what we have how could we get the job done? Most times I came up with a way to do it, a few times pulled a rabbit out of a hat. I told some people at another site, everything is easy, either you are trying to take something apart (cut, scrape, punch) or put something together (glue, weld, bolt), after deciding which way is best the rest is just doing it with the least amount of energy. Which is the opposite of this build. Not having the machines do the bulk of the hard work had me sweating. I did learn how useful a cheap little block plane can be.


    Which brings me to the next bunch of pictures. Linings are used to help the top and back remain glued onto the sides. Since the sides are not straight we need our linings to be flexible. Cutting them almost through gives us that flexibility. I use a hacksaw to cut the slots. Line up the last cut with the line and keep the blade up against the nailed down wooden guide. Normally I would do this on my bandsaw that has a metal cutting blade on it. It produces a wider kerf than a hacksaw. I found that I could not bend the lining as much as I wanted inward to the cut side. Because I glue the linings with the slits in toward the side I only had to expand the kerfs a little using a needle file. I only had to do this at the waist, the upper and lower bouts caused the kerfs to open up.

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    Not a lot of picture taking while the glue was open. I glued them in using CA glue, if you ever use CA have a can of acetone within reach. I ended up gluing the tube of glue to my finger and thumb. The tube cracked and leaked some glue on my fingers. Had to soak them with the acetone and gently pry them apart. Normally I would do this part with hide glue, I did not want to mix up a little bit just for this guitar.

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    I used a coping saw to cut out the excess top. This one could only be set up to cut downward and the blade could not be turned to cut sideways. It was cheap to buy but it would not have been much trouble for them to make it cut at 90 degrees. I ended having to cut out pie shaped wedges in places. I did have the body flipped over when I was doing it but I wanted to show the frayed wood along the edges. I focused at the back corner where it was more pronounced. You don't want to cut too close to the sides as the wood can splinter and you might end up with chunks missing. At this point I would use a trim router with a flush bearing bit to clean up the edges. The coping saw came with a few more blades, one of them was the right kerf width for cutting the fretboard. I used it until I got a real fret saw.

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  5. printer2

    printer2 Poster Extraordinaire

    May 24, 2010
    Canada
    I came across this thread on making your own radius dish and it sure beats using a router and hogging out a piece of MDF. It has pictures that are on Photobucket and we all know what happened with their picture hosting. On page 6 there is a couple of links that can make the pictures visible again. If not there are two pictures that show the end result hosted on the uke site..

    http://forum.ukuleleunderground.com/showthread.php?30203-How-to-make-a-Radius-Dish

    Somebody at another site asked me about the difference of using hide glue verses CA.

    Hide glue is the original glue, used at the time of building the pyramids. It is not as convenient to use, you have to hydrate the beads of glue for a few hour. It does harden and you can re-melt it afterward but sometimes it grows a mold on the top of it. Leave it in the fridge, but don't eat. By the way, it is said to be edible as it is just gelatin. It has to be at temperature to apply and cools off pretty fast although there are longer open times and strengths for different versions. You can preheat parts to retard the set up.

    Now the advantages, you can not glue your fingers together. The second and most important, it gives you a completely repairable joint. If you use CA or wood glue when the joint lets go you have to clean off the glue to put on fresh glue. Both glues do not make a great joint gluing glue on old glue although CA does better in this regard. But say you misaligned your joint while gluing or it slipped. Warm water will dissolve the fresh hide glue. Even if you have old hide glue in the joint the new glue that you put on it melts the old glue and when it resets the glue works just fine. Come back 20 years, 100 years and if you need to fix the hide glue joint it is repairable by slopping on some fresh glue. It also cleans up well with a cloth and warm water.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2018

  6. printer2

    printer2 Poster Extraordinaire

    May 24, 2010
    Canada
    Gluing on the lining. The sides have been sanded close to finished height so the lining needs to sit a little proud of the side. We will then sand the lining down to the side height. These paper clips are great for the job. I almost forgot to mention, I used a razor knife and whittled away at the sides to get them close enough before I started with the sandpaper. Shavings in the picture.

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    All glued on. I also sanded the linings till they matched the side edge. I only used one sheet of 60 grit sandpaper clamped at the two corners to the bench. I just rotated the body to sand the other edges. You do lift up the body a lot to check how you are doing and adjust doing one corner or the others to get the body to fit right to the bench. I do the same thing when using a radius dish. Not unusual for the sandpaper to get the worst of it.

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    Here I am marking off the braces where they exit the body. I cut them a little short of the body so they sit under the lining but there is enough gap between the brace and the side so if the brace expands it does not push through the side. I mark the center strip and measure the neck block. Also cut it back so the strip does not interfere with the neck block. Both the front and rear blocks are shaped so that only about the width of the linings will contact the back when glued.

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    Notched linings and shaped braces. How do I know how much to shape them? Just a guess as with the top.

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    I was going to show the rope method of clamping the back to the body with some surgical tubing I have. But that is shown online enough and I had another idea. I taped the tubing to the back, flipped it over and made sure the tubing didn't move.

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    Did a trial run with the body, marked arrows on the body and the back to be lined up.

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    Time for some glue.

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    Started piling on. I put a clamp at the lower bout and adjusted it for the width. I did not want the sides to bow out, they didn't seem to. Now to wait a half hour or more.

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    Well it didn't collapse. I took a quick trip to the belt sander, I hope nobody minds. I wanted to see what it looks like a little dressed up. I would have scraped the wood if my wrist wasn't bothering me, still more work to do.

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    The top seems ok also. But for some reason something looks like it is missing.

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  7. printer2

    printer2 Poster Extraordinaire

    May 24, 2010
    Canada
    Need to cut the sound hole out and the simplest way to do it is use a Exacto blade and progressively cut deeper and deeper.

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    It is hard to see but I used the razor saw to cut a slot in the end of the board roughly in the shape of the blase. The blade is going to be clamped onto the board but as the blade is slippery it can slide out of place with the pressure that will be on it. I folded some tape over it to give the clamp a better surface to grab onto.

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    Here id the blade end sticking out and the clamp holding it in place. I cut a slot in the other end for the other end of the clamp. The drill bit stays in the board and acts as a pin to ride in the hole drilled in the top with the same bit. I did chamfer the edges of the board a little so there would be no sharp edges to mark up the top.

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    Kind of nervous at first because you never know...

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    First go round and it does not look too bad, It is a dull blade but the only one I have. It did not cut some of the grain lines cleanly because of that. Good enough for this cowboy.

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    And then it is just drop the blade down a little and go around slowly then repeat. I found that it was easier to have the blade sit on the slot it just cut, loosen the clamp, slide the board up a little, then clamp again. Always check to make sure your clamp is above the bottom of the board. I found it easiest to control the cutting by holding the tool in the center and spin it around.

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    As it cuts through just take it easy and you will be able to make it all the way around. A sigh of relief after that was over. Took about 20 spins around for those of you counting. For those brave enough you could have done a rosette the same way but stopping at a certain depth and then chiseling out the slot.

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    That is enough excitement for tonight.
     
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  8. TheZ

    TheZ Tele-Meister

    294
    Nov 13, 2009
    Northwest USA
    This is so fun to watch. Thank you for sharing!
     

  9. printer2

    printer2 Poster Extraordinaire

    May 24, 2010
    Canada
    I bought a couple of classical rosewood bridges online from China, I can't even buy the wood for what I paid. I use one as a pattern if I want to build a bridge, for throw away builds like this I just plop one of these on. While you can build one with just hand tools I think the tricky part is getting the saddle slot right. I use a Dremel to router the slot, I guess you can cut it with a razor saw and then use needle files and lot of patience to finish it off. If you had a chisel the right width I could see doing it, I could make one but I think that would be out in left field for the type of person I am directing this thread to. That aside, A maple board from a hobby shop for the fretboard. When making the neck I prefer having the grain of the wood as shown. It just keeps the grain more perpendicular to the surface of the neck.

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    Truing up the top surface, well I thought I was. Afterwards I flipped it over and did the real top side. Wrote top on it afterwards. I did not have any short 2" x 4"s around so I used a block that I had cut and sanded at 90 degrees. Two sheets of 100 grit underneath and another upper body workout.

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    The end was rough from the saw so I cleaned it up with my file. Check with a square that you do not have it off at an angle.

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    Here we have the neck fretboard and bridge in place to see how things line up. We want the the straight edge coming off the fretboard and landing just on top of the bridge. I shimmed up the front of the body and the neck blank till everything lines up. Then I check the angle of the end of the neck blank to the body. I think I forgot to mention I had the neck block flat with a little bit of a radius at the sides. When I sanded and cleaned up the body I made sure the area where the neck with mate to was flat. This makes life easier when we join the neck to the body. If the end of the neck blank is not at the same angle as the body take the file, or sandpaper and block, and get the same angle.

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    Transfer the dimensions for the neck on the blank. I put a bought nut for a classical on the neck and drew a line from the string holes in the bridge to the end slots on the nut. Then I drew some lines for the overhang I want on the fretboard.

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    I cut the angle for the top of the headstock and then filed it flat on the vice. I put the block in the vice so the top of the jaws match the lines I want to file to. Then it is just file away till the file is level with either jaw.

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    Rather than use the handsaw I tried a hacksaw, I marked a line to follow well outside the thickness I want and cut a slot on either end and then down with the saw blas running down the slots I originally cut.

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    Something did not seem right and I stopped and cut down and knocked off the chunk. Looks like when I did the outside slots I was not at a right angle and the saw blade followed it and bowed cutting a hollow in the wood. At this time I am thinking I hope there is enough thickness left for the headstock, I don't want to glue up another board if I did not have to.

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    I cut the rest with the hand saw. Here I am cheating and using my drill press to cut a big hole at the heel end. I am sure you will forgive me, just saves doing a lit of filing with the round side of the file. I blame my weakness on the screw up with the hacksaw.

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    Cutting slots in the wood and then just knocking them out with a tap of hammer. I never went to the line as you do not have complete control how it will fracture and it is better to play it safe, easier to take away than to put back.

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    While the file does a good job if you have a fair bit to go using the round side can be faster. When you get close flip it over and square things up.

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    All cleaned up and marked for the next step. The headstock has just a little divot left. I tend to allow for the odd mistake when I lay things out, it saved me today.

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  10. printer2

    printer2 Poster Extraordinaire

    May 24, 2010
    Canada
    I have a jig which the saw rides up against the two dark plastic inserts. Works well and it is pretty fast doing a board. That is unless you cut the board to width and the edges diverge at an angle. At least I had the center line marked on the board and with the paper lined up I adjusted the position until the saw blade lined up over the fret line. A scale calculator which prints out the scale can be found at http://www.ekips.org/tools/guitar/fretfind2d/.

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    I read that you can use a couple of grains of salt on the board and this stops the board from slipping around once it has glue on it. Works well.

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    Trimming off the excess. At least the hammer is in focus. I have a piece of wood between the vice jaws and the fretboard, no reason to mark it up.

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    I drew some lines on the neck blank and started trimming with the saw and a spoke shave. The file works well also but the spoke shave is fun. This is where you have to mind the grain direction taking down the wood. It will let you know if you are going the wrong direction.

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    This is all done with the file.

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    I have to take down the heel a little and go over with some sandpaper. It comes to a point which helps me get the both sides the same but the point is going to come off. The headstock will take no time to finish up.

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  11. MerleJam

    MerleJam TDPRI Member

    Age:
    48
    32
    Dec 23, 2017
    Texas
    This thread is so much fun to follow. Inspiring. Thanks for doing this.
     

  12. printer2

    printer2 Poster Extraordinaire

    May 24, 2010
    Canada
    As a final step I use the dull razor knife blade to scrape everything flat and smooth. I give it a slight bend when I do the curves.

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    Sort of a pleasing shape.

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    I don't know. I was going to dye the fretboard black but I might just leave it as is. I may have to give making a bridge for this one some serious thought. What do you think?

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  13. printer2

    printer2 Poster Extraordinaire

    May 24, 2010
    Canada
    Decided to go with a maple bridge. Also put a radius on the fretboard with sandpaper and a block with a 12" radius cut in it. I don't think this will be much of a classical player.

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    Roughed out the bridge with the hacksaw.

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    Cleaned up the dimensions with my handy dandy big file. I like it a lot. I marked out the saddle slot and slit inside the lines to give me somewhere to start with. Then started to cut at an angle and picking out bits of wood. This is going nowhere

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    That is better. The saw has a wide kerf for normal guitar making jobs but it was still too narrow to make the saddle slot. I angled the saw and cut more into the slot width, I also found that pushing fairly slow and making sure the teeth were level I could get a pretty clean surface on the bottom.

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    I have a needle file I use to do frets with. One narrow edge is filed flat so the teeth do not cut the fretboard when shaping the frets. I used that side down while I worked on the sides of the slot.

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    I used the razor saw to cut the tie block and the center section out. I probably would use it for doing the saddle slot if I ever did it this way again (not bloody likely).

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    The center section cut out, filed a small radius in the back of the tieblock. Used the bought bridge to space the holes for the strings.

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    The holes angle up so I had to tilt the bridge when drilling with the drill press. I used a saddle to angle the top out and one at the bottom so the clamp would be giving pressure on the top and bottom.No doing this freehand if you want the strings to end up in the right place, sorry.

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  14. printer2

    printer2 Poster Extraordinaire

    May 24, 2010
    Canada
    Even with the handsaw doing a fair job of cleaning up the bottom of the saddle slot there is no way it would be flat enough so the saddle sits on the bottom the whole length of the slot. My solution of not having a edged tool the right width and one that would machine the slot flat. Some angle iron from a bed frame gave up a piece of steel (actually is not iron) which I filed the right width and honed a sharp edge on it. I then had it stick out of the vice just enough to come into contact with the bottom of the saddle slot. I then lined up the slot with the tool and pushed the bridge the length of the slot. Took some effort but it cut a little curl of wood.

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    I marked the bottom of the slot with a pencil and took a few more runs at the tool raising it up a touch each time. With the pencil lines still showing I have a few more times to go.

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    The saddle fits pretty good and is tight enough that it won't fall out.

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    Because there is a radius on the guitar top the bridge needs to be radiused also to fit well. I used a blade to scrape the center section.

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    Once the bridge is close to shape we put sandpaper on the top where the bridge will sit and sand the top's shape into the bottom of the bridge. Things always glue up better if they fit well together.

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    Normally if a neck is bolted on the bolt is tightened on inside the box. But in doing that there must be a good mechanical connection between the bolt and the neck, that is not going to happen with a spruce neck as the fastener might just pull out of the wood with any kind of accidental rough treatment. It is better the screw bites into the plywood block while pulling the neck tight. A pilot hole for the screw, it was lined up in the center but the bit took the easy rout through the soft wood. No matter for what we need it to do.

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    Should have used the forsner bit first, oh well I got it done. Rather than use a wood screw which has a bevel at its base I will be using a machine screw which has a flat base beneath the head. We do not want the bevel to give the wood a reason to get spread apart and create a crack, not a lot of meat here.

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    Lined up the neck so it is lined up with the center of the guitar at the tail block. Clamped the neck solid and drilled a pilot hole through our hole and into the neck block.

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    Side dots in the neck. They want a fair amount for a few pieces of plastic as side markers. I picked up a roll of plastic rod for use in 3d printing, need to get metric drill bit for it. I dimpled the spot I needed the hole to be with the hammer and a finishing nail, it had a good point. Later used it to put the CA glue into the hole before the plastic went in. I bought some tubes at the Dollar store before and they were regular viscosity, seems now the only have the gel.

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    Filed them down flat with a fine file, looks alright.

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  15. printer2

    printer2 Poster Extraordinaire

    May 24, 2010
    Canada
    I lined up the tuners, everything fit. Pricked a hole in the wood and drove the screws in.

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    Thought I lost one of the tuner shaft covers, only five in the bag, so I put on another set which are shorter and very white. Later found the other cover and swapped them. In the shot just above is a crazy looking thing, I made a caul for the bridge area when there was no back on. The braces go between the squares of wood, when time comes to glue on the bridge the caul will be propped up with wood or if you have a long clamp that can get in.

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    Tried to figure out a foolproof way a new builder can put in frets with a normal hammer. The wire has an arc to it, I tapped in the ends enough that it would hold itself in place. One thing to do is put a little bevel on the slots with a file. It helps when you redo the frets, it reduces the the wood splitting and coming up when you pull the frets out.

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    I then took a piece of spruce and put it over the fret and gave it a good hit.

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    Did the middle section next, then the end. Sometime needed to go back and do the middle again and touch it up.

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    Just when everything seems to be going right things go wrong or so it seems. Being a softwood when I was putting in the frets I use two wedges and some cloth over top it to sit the neck on. It dented the wood, when I noticed and tried to do it a different way I somehow knocked off the end of the heel. It broke in two at the screw hole and came off, I glued it on as best I could. I scraped the finish on the neck where I dented it , made it damp and steamed them up with my clothes iron. Sanded it down and started refinishing it. Had some pictures but deleted them from the camera. Just one of those days.

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    I am not too confident in the glue holding the pieces together with my original plan to have the screw holding the neck on along with gluing the fretboard. I think I it would be best if I glue the heel to the body as well. I refinished the neck and should be gluing on the neck and bridge today.


    I forgot this entry.

    Enough of a finish to protect the wood. One of the things that I would like is a buffing wheel. Well I guess a palm sander will do for now. Put some cotton on the pad and went to town. I had a small run that I scraped off with a razor blade but it left a rough surface. Part of the reason for getting out the sander. It buffed it out but should not have left it in on the same area for so long. The right upper right is a little yellowed. If you are going to learn that lesson this is the guitar to do it on, may fix it at some point. The neck turned out nice.

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    Last edited: Jan 30, 2018

  16. printer2

    printer2 Poster Extraordinaire

    May 24, 2010
    Canada
    It was suggested that I put a dowel down the heel also, I did not consider it before because it required a drill press, well maybe not if you have a good eye and a steady hand.

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    Looks like it might fit, now drill the rest of the way.

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    Trimmed the dowel and put a walnut heel cap on to pretty it up.

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    Filing the fret ends along the neck to get them all flat and next to the wood.

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    Had one slot that got away on me when I was cutting it. The fret barbs did not want to hold it down.

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    I use a fretboard guard to protect it from the file even though I ground down the bottom edge. I filed the edge of the fret starting at the base of the fret and as I stroked I rolled the file over to the crown of the fret. I had to do this two strokes per corner of the fret, not very good files. The luthier I got this one just does one swipe and he is done.

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    Clamped down the fret and wicked some thin CA into the slot.

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    I used a black marker and drew a line over the tops of all the frets. Then I ran the file over the tops lengthwise. You can see the high spots with no marker on them, keep going till the marker is gone.

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    Then I use a piece of man made stone that is used for counter tops and some 400 grit and sanded across the frets with the stone lengthwise. Normally the fretboard is taped off so it does not get dirty or marked up but, well this is not that kind of guitar.

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    I tried one of the cheap radiused crowning files you can buy. It sort of works, sort of. I then went over the frets with a fiber nail board to smooth and round off the crowns. These things are great for building and are cheap.

    [​IMG]
     

  17. printer2

    printer2 Poster Extraordinaire

    May 24, 2010
    Canada
    Took some 400 grit then 600 and then crocus cloth, not sure if it is called that other places. I have some 2000 grit cloth and this stuff seems finer. Really polishes metal up.

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    Time to glue on the neck. Before you do this step recheck the neck angle and bridge height. The frets are in so the straight edge should end up a little above the bridge height.

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    While the glue is drying let's plug up the hole with some cedar. In case of needing to pull the neck again the cedar would be drilled out and it is soft enough that you shouldn't damage the neck.

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    Just file away.

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    A little more.

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    Glued it in and filed it flat then sanded it.

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    Mark where the fretboard edges go on the masking tape.

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    Spaced the bridge equally over the lines.

    [​IMG]

    Double checked the bridge location and then moved the masking tape up against the bridge, I drew a line at the ends of the bridge then scribed with a razor blade on the line and along the edge of the masking tap. Then I used a sharp blade and scraped the finish off where the bridge will go.

    [​IMG]

    So much for my caul to put under the top. I could not get my hand in the hole far enough to place it. I was not happy about plan B but it worked once before. Took some film food wrap and taped it down in the back.

    [​IMG]

    Got my masking tape ready as well as the bottom of the bridge. A grain or two of salt to keep the bridge from sliding around.

    [​IMG]

    Placed the bridge, places some plastic tubing so it but up to the bridge, taped the whole arrangement air tight. Had the other end of the tubing taped to the hose of my vacuum cleaner. Turned it on and the food wrap got sucked tight. Yeah I know it is only a couple of inches pressure but it worked for me with a steel string guitar before, short scale so lower tension though.

    [​IMG]

    Put a piece of wood over the plastic wrap to protect it and added some rods. Not enough to collapse the top, might not be enough pressure with them alone but with the vacuum it should be OK.

    [​IMG]

    And now time to string it up.

    [​IMG]
     

  18. oldrebel

    oldrebel Friend of Leo's Gold Supporter

    Oct 23, 2011
    Lynchburg Tennessee
    That looks great!!
     

  19. printer2

    printer2 Poster Extraordinaire

    May 24, 2010
    Canada
    Boy it takes forever to get to the bottom of the page with all the pictures. Well took some of the burs off the tuners and all but one os working well enough. I have the fretboard radiused and the D and G frets out too easy. I have a saddle that isn't radiused, if I get on the frets to see which are high I could get the thing set up better. Yes it sounds like a guitar. It has a wolfy resonance at C, not a big surprise given the size of it. It does sound more nylon stringed guitar than a ukulele.

    I used a Martin size 5 outline and cut took out an inch in the lower bout, think it would be a better guitar with the extra inch. Guys, spend the extra buck and go for a wider board. Otherwise the flat sawn wood does not seem to be a problem. The C resonance is the biggest issue soundwise, wonder what it would be like with a hardwood back. I need to make it a little more playable and then give it to a buddy to hang on his wall. I do have a actual size 5 width guitar built out of a good board that needs to be finished. It should satisfy my need for a little plaything.

    So things to take away from this build. I think for a spruce neck it should have a dowel in the heel. I am sure a of a rod of some kind or a piece of hardwood town the center might be a good addition for humidity swings. The resonance on the C could be tamed a little, different back wood and bracing might be in order. Better tuners, but again I built this for a wall.
     
    guitarbuilder likes this.

  20. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

    Mar 30, 2003
    Ontario County
    FWIW, I stick all my photos into MS paint and resize them to 40% of what comes out of my camera. You should see how long it takes for this thread to load on my slow internet.
     

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