Shelf Options

Discussion in 'Amp Central Station' started by Milspec, Apr 25, 2019.

  1. Milspec

    Milspec Friend of Leo's

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    I generally prefer amp heads and have assembled quite a few Blackface, Silverface, and Custom heads over the years. The problem is that I have far more amps than cabinets which forces me to swap them out to play....annoying.

    I want to start stacking the heads (3 deep) above the 2 - 2x12 cabs, but in a safe way. My studio is located on the top floor of a 2.5 story vintage home and thanks to the railroad adding a second track about 100 yards away, there can be some shaking 1-2 times per week when they run coal cars to KC.

    Short of just building some shelving, is there anything out there pre-fab that works well? Maybe some sort of metal baking rack or something? I figured that I would anchor it to the wall with a small lip around each shelf to discourage sliding off, but if there is something out there already, I would like to go that route. I just don't like stacking amps on top of other amps, much prefer some seperation.

    To paint the proper picture, I am not describing the Blues Brothers apartment that shakes itself like an earthquake when the train passes, but it can shake enough from time to time to knock things off the wall.
     
  2. Nightclub Dwight

    Nightclub Dwight Tele-Holic

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  3. King Fan

    King Fan Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    That's a cool system. I wonder if you can mount the shelves upside down so they have a lip around them (assuming they're flush when right side up).

    To overthink this a *ton*, amp feet might drop down in between the wire mesh (an anchoring system but not good for the tolex) or they might interact with it in less stable ways. So maybe I'd put wood shelves on the wire shelves. The amps then might not actually walk or slide much anyway? But, depending on your coal-train Richter scale, if they did (wait for it) use some stickum velcro a la pedalboards to anchor 'em. And if you don't like stickum on your tolex, the final idea is a chunk of quake-hold putty (easily removable) or museum wax (slightly less removable) on each foot.

    Now, do we like the wheels? OK, somebody stop me, I'm late for life. But BTW I did see a longish thread about this (amp stands / shelves / racks) a few years ago, might have some other ideas if we could find it.
     
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  4. Nightclub Dwight

    Nightclub Dwight Tele-Holic

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    This amp "feet" might slip through the wire base of the shelf, depending on the size of the feet. A thin wooden or other plastic shelf that sits on top of the metal might be a good idea if the feet aren't properly supported. I just measured the gap on one of my shelves. Its about 5/8", which seems small enough to support most robber "feet" you'd find under an amp.

    The last time I assembled one of these I was considering whether to mount the shelf upside down to have the lip on the top, to keep things from sliding off. The instructions said to mount it the normal way, but didn't mention any dire warnings about mounting the shelf upside down. The way it works is that you snap a sleeve into place on the vertical support and lower the shelf down and it snugs against that sleeve. I'm not sure whether the sleeve or the shelf (or both) is tapered. If its the sleeve that is tapered I imagine you could mount the shelf upside down. But if the shelf is tapered it wouldn't work.

    And the wheels are not mandatory. The unit comes with both wheels and height adjustable feet, which are what I use. When I used to work at a museum they had many of these units with the wheels and it was convenient for moving things around. But for home use the height adjustable feet are probably better.
     
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  5. Silverface

    Silverface Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

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    You need to seriously consider heat and airflow. I'd definitely stay with a wireframe type of shelf system - but with 2-4" minimum of back wall clearance; and I would not stack heads directly on top of each other - I'd add 1-2" wood block spacers between them and have at least one fan blowing across the back.
     
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  6. pdxken

    pdxken NEW MEMBER!

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    The rack will probably be top-heavy so you will also want to consider running a guy wire from the top rear corners to an eye bolt mounted in a stud.
     
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  7. edvard

    edvard Tele-Afflicted

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    All my experiences with racks of this sort did indeed have the shelf brackets tapered, and the plastic sleeves are tapered to match on the outside diameter. They also have a small "lip" that locks into circumferential divots on the legs where you can lock them to pre-marked heights. See the details here:
    [​IMG]
     
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  8. Nightclub Dwight

    Nightclub Dwight Tele-Holic

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    Yes, that looks about right!
     
  9. gridlock

    gridlock Friend of Leo's

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    You can also order these shelves with a 1” lip around the periphery of the shelf. You may need a to cut a sheet of 1/8” black plastic to line the top of the shelves so the amp heads set properly (without the rubber feet falling into the wire spacing on the shelf). I use sheets of black plastic on these type of shelves, at my plant, to protect product.
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2019
  10. keithb7

    keithb7 Friend of Leo's

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    Back in my apex I used this shelving. I am trying, rather ineffectively to downsize. Selling off amps often equates to partial trades.;)
     

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  11. RodeoTex

    RodeoTex Poster Extraordinaire

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    This works pretty well for me and was cheap.
    20190427_113030.jpg
    12" shelf brackets with a piece of 3/4" PVC over it. I put a little squirt of spray foam inside just to hold them on. Since the brackets have a little rise on the end to keep a shelf board from slipping off, it makes for a slight back-leaning angle.
    20190427_113123.jpg
    Plenty strong too.
     
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  12. JustABluesGuy

    JustABluesGuy Friend of Leo's

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    I have a restaurant style wire shelf like this, and it works well, but I did need to place solid “shelves” under my amps/cabs to keep the feet from getting tangled up.

    I like @RodeoTex’s setup quite a lot as well.
     
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