Second partscaster: the Telelestercaster

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Blue Bill, Apr 18, 2015.

  1. Macrogats

    Macrogats Friend of Leo's

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    This is gonna be one nice looking guitar! Hope we don't have to wait 12 more months to see it. :D
     
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  2. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

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    Hey Bill, I think that either way you go is fine. If you are worried about glue, than go ahead and stain it right away. I tend to scratch and ding stuff once it is finished. So I wait as along as I can. The more I think about it, the more I like your approach.

    The last guitar I've done was the LP for my nephew. I have moved twice since and have a lot of things to do in the house before I go back to building guitars. But I plan to, I have my LP to finish and definitely want to build Lucille. I'll be back, that is for sure.
     
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  3. Blue Bill

    Blue Bill Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

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    I hope it comes out nice, there's about a thousand ways I could mess it up. It'll be my first go at binding.
     
  4. Blue Bill

    Blue Bill Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

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    Time to edge-glue the top. Here's my jointer rig, to straighten the edges:

    DSCF1735.JPG

    This worked pretty well, on the second try. I think it will make a nice tight joint. Here's the clamp up:

    DSCF1743.JPG

    Here's the bottom, all drilled out. Am I forgetting anything? I'll have to fix that chip, from the original shaping, before the top gets glued on.

    DSCF1744.JPG
     
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  5. Blue Bill

    Blue Bill Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

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    Progress report: Here's the top, with a little water on it: DSCF1753.JPG
    The figure is a lot more active than I expected, some nice fiddle-back stripe. I filed the chipped part with a flat file, to make a clean 90 degree corner, then glued a little piece of mahogany into it, matching the grain direction as best as I could:

    DSCF1756.JPG

    Trim off the excess, a little sanding, and happily, the repair is nearly invisible. Here it is, also with a little water on it:
    DSCF1761.JPG
    Next step: glue the top to the bottom!
     
  6. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

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    Well done Bill, it's very difficult to spot. You have to know it is there to notice it.
     
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  7. Blue Bill

    Blue Bill Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

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    Here's the top, trimmed and ready for glue:
    DSCF1762.JPG

    For maximum mojo, I stuck a folded-up picture of Garcia into one of the cavities. It's a reprint of an old Rolling Stone article, with him discussing his meetings with Kerouac and Lenny Bruce.

    DSCF1763.JPG DSCF1764.JPG
    Clamp party!

    DSCF1765.JPG
     
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  8. Blue Bill

    Blue Bill Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

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    No serious mishaps on the glue-up, everything seems to be where it's supposed to be.

    DSCF1788.JPG

    I mixed up some old foul-smelling dark amber with four drops of Colortone amber, plus one drop of lemon yellow. The stripes really popped.

    DSCF1790.JPG

    Added some powdered Transfast cherry dye for the burst, then some Colortone cherry red around the outer edge.

    DSCF1799.JPG DSCF1796.JPG

    It came out more like a cherry-wood color, rather than that crimson-y red. I kinda like it, it's more like a honeyburst than the bright red cherryburst. This makes me want to skip the red stain on the back and neck, and just go for natural mahogany. Thoughts?
     
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  9. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

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    Your flames seems to be located more on the edges of the guitar. If you go with a dark burst you might loose a lot of the lovely flames.
     
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  10. ndeli55

    ndeli55 Tele-Afflicted

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    I like what you have going on there. Very sienna burst, which I love
     
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  11. Blue Bill

    Blue Bill Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

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    Thanks, I agree, the stripes are nice the way they are. I think a darker edge would look weird against a cream binding.

    Next up: Figure out how to put on the binding. The latest quandary is, I have two widths of binding, 1/4 inch and 5/16 inch. The top is just over .25 inches thick, so I'm afraid the 1/4 inch binding is just a hair too narrow, and the glue line will be visible. The 5/16, therefore, is almost 1/16 too wide. Do people glue it on , with the excess sticking up in the air above the top, then trim it later? Or is it better to rip the binding to thickness first? What's the best way to trim it to size? I suppose I could set up the table saw with some elaborate finger boards, and hope it doesn't explode, but that seems like a nail-biter. Suggestions welcome.

    I ordered a Gibson style 3-way switch; the plan is to set it up to switch between the regular Strat-style 5-way setup and the piezo acoustic sound, with the middle position being a blend of both. I still have some learning to do about the piezo saddle pickups. Again, comments and suggestions welcome.
     
  12. ndeli55

    ndeli55 Tele-Afflicted

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    Yep, it can be a little proud and Then shave December back. Or you can resize it. Stew mac sells a thing to do the resizing
     
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  13. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

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    I would shave it with a card scraper.
     
  14. ndeli55

    ndeli55 Tele-Afflicted

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    Yep, same here. You’re talking about 1/32” if I’m hearing you correctly. That will be nothing to a good card scraper, in fact, when I do binding I want about that poking up to cover my you know what.
     
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  15. Blue Bill

    Blue Bill Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

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    That's reassuring, thanks. Sorry for being obtuse, but what does "shave December" mean? Is that a auto-correct thing?

    My concern is, if the binding is sticking up nearly a sixteenth, when I use rubber bands and/or stretchy tape to clamp it on, will the pressure on the proud edge cause the other edge of the binding to be pulled away from the body? I guess a dry run would answer that question; I'll give it a try asap. I have 3 scrapers; I just sharpened them up.

    I brushed on some grain filler on the back and neck, then sanded it off with 400 grit.

    DSCF1801.JPG DSCF1815.JPG

    It's cold here now, I'm waiting for a warmer day to spray a couple protective coats of lakker on the mahogany back and neck. Also, I need to dig up info on how deep to cut the neck pocket. That's another question: cut the pocket before applying the binding, or after?
     
  16. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

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    I cut the pocket before the binding. What is the grain filler you are using?
     
  17. Blue Bill

    Blue Bill Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

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    The mahogany ColorTone from Stew Mac. DSCF1817.JPG
     
  18. ndeli55

    ndeli55 Tele-Afflicted

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    Yeah it’s autocorrect. Shave the excess back. That’s what I meant. You said the 1/4” is too narrow, the 5/16” is too tall, by my calbulations you need to split the difference, or 1/32” will sit proud. That’s not enough to cause issue in my opinion. You’d be left with 9/32” binding, ideally.
     
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  19. Blue Bill

    Blue Bill Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

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    My first neck pocket! I used Ron Kirn's template, it uses the string-through holes for alignment, with drill bits used as pins to align everything; worked like a charm. 5/8 inch deep by 3 inches long.

    DSCF1823.JPG
    It was tricky to get the depth exactly correct, it's within a 64th. I'm trying to think of something clever to label it with. Also, I gotta figure out what kind of channel I need for truss-rod access.

    The "after" shot:

    DSCF1826.JPG
    I tried the neck to see how it fits. It's not super tight, it has a little wobble room. From what I read, this is good; if it's too tight, the thickness of the lacquer can make it too tight.

    Next up: start fooling around with the binding. I think you guys are right, getting all worked up over a 1/32 overhang is silly. I'll try a few test runs on some scraps, then it's really nail-biting time.
     
  20. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

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    The neck pocket looks great. I used acetone on my last binding job and it was far better than the glue I used on my first one. For me it will be acetone from now on.

    Good luck with the binding, I'm sure you will do a great job.
     
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