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Router for router table

Discussion in 'The DIY Tool Shed' started by Telecastermusic, Dec 2, 2016.

  1. songtalk

    songtalk Friend of Leo's


    Ron, did you just give me router gas? I'm on youtube now watching porter cabled demos and trying to figure out what I'll have to sell to get my wife to allow this. :oops:
     
    Meteorman likes this.

  2. bullfrogblues

    bullfrogblues Friend of Leo's

    Jun 5, 2011
    Southeast Florida
    @Telecastermusic I have the Triton TRA 001 3 1/4hp router in my router table.
    I used to make a lot of raised panel doors and needed the extra HP.
    If you're not bogging it down with heavy routs the 2 HP 001 should do a good job for you.
     
    Telecastermusic likes this.

  3. Pup Tentacle

    Pup Tentacle Tele-Holic

    577
    Mar 19, 2011
    Cape Coral Fl
    Porter Cable 7518 does everything I need it to do. Easily handles the large bits used to make raised panel doors.
     

  4. Telecastermusic

    Telecastermusic Tele-Meister

    Age:
    53
    214
    Oct 3, 2009
    northumberland, UK
    Thanks Bullfrog blues.
     
    bullfrogblues likes this.

  5. imploration

    imploration Tele-Meister Ad Free Member

    149
    Sep 19, 2010
    Midwest
    I've been using the same Porter Cable 690 for 10 years, and like all others that have chimed in, it's pretty much faultless. It has enough power for anything, whether mounted under a table, free handing or router planing with a sled. I've used it for everything, including binding channels. I recently bought a Makita RF1101 2-1/4-Horsepower Variable Speed Router. It's like the big brother to the PC 690 and it's amazing. Reasonably priced with far more horsepower! Hope this helps:)
     

  6. RogerC

    RogerC Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

    Mar 30, 2011
    Oklamerica
    I've got the Hitachi M12VC, and it works just fine.
     

  7. Telecastermusic

    Telecastermusic Tele-Meister

    Age:
    53
    214
    Oct 3, 2009
    northumberland, UK
    [​IMG][​IMG]
    Bought the Triton. Now to put it to work!!
     
    bullfrogblues and Mat UK like this.

  8. fretfile

    fretfile TDPRI Member

    19
    Feb 12, 2014
    witch city
    If you are only building guitars and use your router table primarily for pattern routing than you don't need a lot of adjustability. I have a 3.25hp Freud in my table, and it has similar adjustments to the Tritons. Very easy to change bits and height, dual collets and variable speed and pretty much all other bells and whistles. If you have the $ you will not be disappointed with any of the top flight 15amp plungers on the market. If you are trying to save a little, or a lot of $, the table is a place where you can get away with a pretty simple and inexpensive router.
    I use a Harbor Freight 2hp unit in my over arm set up and would not hesitate to use one in a table for pattern routing. I think they cost $50.00 with a coupon; comes with 3 collets and is reasonably quiet. It has no features to speak of but it spins a bit well and takes a beating. Above table adjust is just not that important for pattern work. It is very easy to pull the router plate and adjust outside of the table. You just need to get the bearing on the pattern; precision height is just not that crucial. The HF unit is a copy of the PC690 type routers and it works pretty well for what it is. Probably 90% of my table work is done with one bit, a 1/2" x 2" spiral, up cut bit with double bottom bearings. I have not used the HF router for this application, but would be happy to. I use my HF spindle in a ShopSmith over arm unit and it is great. It takes a beating in this application. I typically run a 3/8" x 1.5" two flute straight bit as its primary use is captive routes where tight corners are often required. I don't hesitate to take 1/4" passes and never pre drill anything. It tolerates a pretty good side load and does not complain a bit. The weak point of this router is the height adjust but as I mention above, I don't think that is a big issue for pattern routing in a table. The other bit that that sees regular use in this motor is a 1 1/2" bowl forming bit that I use for fly cutting and thickness planing. No thick passes with this set up. I only make very light passes with this combo. I use it for taking rough milled 8/4" stock to almost final body thickness. Crown up until the first side is flattened and then the blank is flipped and brought to final thickness. Well, not quite final, I use a R/O sander or hand plane to clean up the mill marks from the router.
    As a rule, I like to buy the best tools I can afford. If quick and precise height adjustments are truly important for your use, steer clear of the HF, it is not well suited for those applications. If all you need is a workhorse motor with basic functions I would suggest giving it a look.
    Like most folks who have been at this for a while I have a lot of routers. Current inventory includes Freud 3.25hp plunger in table, Bosch 1617EVS, PC laminate trimmer, HF 2HP, older Craftsman 1 3/4 hp, Dremel in a Stew Mac precision base and the newish DeWalt 1.25hp compact combo kit with plunge and fixed basses. The compact DeWalt is just a killer router for guitar work. It is easily the busiest router in my shop. It is just great for routing a pickup cavity or deepening an existing cavity. The dust collection works amazingly well and it is pretty quiet. The built in light and great visibility push it over the top. I think I could easily get by with it and a HF unit in a table. The over arm is kind of a luxury and before I had it the Bosch was my primary router. Now that I have the over arm and the little DeWalt my 1617 does not get a lot of use but it is a fantastic router that will do almost anything.
     

  9. Bruxist

    Bruxist Friend of Leo's

    Oct 12, 2010
    Kentucky, USA

  10. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

    Mar 30, 2003
    Ontario County
    For a multitude of reasons, if you can afford the extra cash, I'd get a new Porter Cable 690 or comparable Dewalt or similar.

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/PORTER-CAB...eHVrGr6zFwjTecZjwoUmgBHQaHJkHLrxoCE9MQAvD_BwE


    I've purchased used routers at my local flea market. Some were good bargains and some were beat to death even though they looked pretty clean. If it is your only router, I'd get a new name brand one. I've tossed out a number of old Craftsman routers over the years. They aren't worth fixing or the parts aren't available.
     
    Bruxist likes this.

  11. callasabra

    callasabra Tele-Afflicted

    Apr 11, 2016
    USA
    Yes. I looked for a good table and was not satisfied with any I found. one was made completely from plastic and was very wobbly. I am building one now and it will need casters.
     
    Deneb likes this.

  12. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity Vendor Member

    Age:
    71
    May 1, 2003
    Jacksonville, FL
    get/make your router table as heavy and sturdy as possible.... major Motion dynamics ( laws of physics) are in play . . . the heavier, the more in control you remain, specially when the inevitable happens.

    Ron Kirn
     

  13. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity Vendor Member

    Age:
    71
    May 1, 2003
    Jacksonville, FL
    and be sure ya get the Porter Cable..690.... it's great... the newer 890 is a POS compared to it.. it's just over-engineered.. if the word engineered can be used... See, they just ATTEMPTED to over engineer it... and missed big time.... it'e more like they over-Gizmoed it.

    there is just too much "Stuff" . . and it's a PITA to adjust the depth... the micro adjustment is more infuriating than helpful and I wanna know what idiot designed the knobs... they're not structurally sound enough to withstand the normal way a professional would handle a router in a production setting... the 690 has/had solid bakelite with a brass insert imbedded handles... it would take a sledge hammer to defeat them.. the 890's handles are moulded mud, that's the plastic industries internal name for any cheep plastic... a good twist and you are holding a router with a broken loose handle.

    and yeah, I have one, two, three and four... bought 'em all at the same time... so those of y'all that think I'm totally daft... you're totally right...:lol:

    I have tools my Dad bought in the 50's and 60's.. his "hobby was making boats... those tools are still working and those that failed can, if they haven't already been, still today, repaired... How 'bout that Stanley Black AND Decker... all three of y'all toads... c'mon down here..that kinda crap will getcha an ass whuppin' just leave the Armani suits home..:p

    Why is it when Stanley Black and Decker buy a great tool maker, the "new generation" of tools bering that great name, suck.. and suck big time.... do NOT buy the 890.... not until they fire the engineering staff that designed it and replace 'em . . . and WTF with discontinuing the 392 palm sander ... then discontinuing the replacement parts for those of us that have a rack of em.... 'preciate the loyalty to us "customers" there guys... same thing on the Belt sander... forget the number... 362 perhaps.. discontinued parts???

    I still have a couple of 1950 era Nikon F SLR cameras... Nikon can and will still repair 'em, and all subsequent Nikon F series.. with no whining..... that's product and customer Loyalty.. I have a couple of 2015 era Porter Cable tools.. Porter Cable acts like they're red headed step children... with ebola. no parts and almost never heard of 'em... That's a royal crock of T-Rex schidt...

    I still have most of my Dad's tools .. he's been gone 27 years.. they all do their things flawlessly.... I have zero functioning Porter Cable tools that i owned in Y-2K... they're dead and irreparable. Yep..'preciatre it... :mad:

    rk
     
    Deneb likes this.

  14. Bruxist

    Bruxist Friend of Leo's

    Oct 12, 2010
    Kentucky, USA
    Update: Santa brought me a router for Christmas.

    38386.jpeg

    Thanks to everyone for the helpful advice.
     

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