There's been some discussion on the TDPRI about the Mallory multi-section filter can caps and how to replace them. I dislike the use of discrete caps on top of or alongside the can connections inside the chassis. I also don't like to drill a chassis or add terminal strips if I can avoid it. Now, you can get new cans from CE Engineering (they use the old Mallory tooling), or JJ and F&T. They are all high quality parts and will work well. However, they cost a bunch of money. The CE can with the filter cap values for the amp I'm working on here runs about $35 US. I wanted to share a method I use for restoring old radios. On most radio chassis, there is a lot of wiring, lead dress is critical, and the chassis are generally pretty cramped. Many times there just isn't space to put discrete caps in as a replacement for a multi-section can. Instead, I cut the can open and put modern radial caps in it. I also do this for amps that use this style of filter cap. Here's our victim...er....patient. A 40/20/20uf 450 volt can from a 1978 Vibro Champ. First step is to open the can. You *may* be able to open the crimp at the bottom and peel back the edge that's crimped down and remove the innards from the bottom. I've done this in the past, but this particular can was crimped down to the point that I couldn't get a tool into the seam to open it up. However, this is actually what I wind up doing 8 out of 10 times: cut the can open along the rim. You can use a hacksaw, or, as I did here, a Dremel or other rotary tool with a heavy-duty cutting disc. The can is light aluminum and will cut easily. Try not to hack it up too much. You'll soon see why. Well, goll-lee. The top of the can slides right off, exposing the innards. Snip off the aluminum strips that connect the tabs on the bottom to the caps. The long strip you see is the ground. Unfortunately, it's hard to solder to, otherwise I'd reuse it. I just snip them all off. I have these super duper, high performance Panasonic caps I'm using as replacements. If you think these are too expensive, you can save $5 and get more generic caps. With a little trial-and-error, I come up with a configuration that will leave me with all of the grounds tied to one point, and the three positive sides laid out so they'll contact the appropriate tab on the can for its value, and fit easily into the can. Depending on your can, you may have 2, 3, or 4 caps inside it. Radial lead caps tend to be easier to work with for restuffing than axials. In this case, the grounds are tied together in the middle. The two caps on the bottom are 22uF - the second and third sections of the can, and the cap on top is the first section. The older Champs used a 20uF cap; the later ones like this used a 40uF. I decided to split the difference and use a 33uF. More below.