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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Ripthorn, Oct 10, 2017.
Ding Ding Ding...we have a winner.....
Are you looking for proper LP JR DC plans or a drawing of my spin?
Well, let me say that doing a design like this is a nice change of pace. I leisurely planed, trimmed, sawed, sanded, and routed a little bit. After just a couple hours, here is where we stand:
I need to trim off the neck tenon that is sticking up, as I angled the neck pocket and not the tenon. No big deal, just need to figure out the best way and time to do it. I guess I really need my bridge and pickup to show up now.
I will say that the one bummer here is the weight of the body. Apparently my local supplier sells Sapele as African Mahogany and it is fairly heavy. Lucky for me, I like thinner bodies, so I trimmed some there, but with the body as it stands now, it's 5 lb. 13 oz. I still need to route for pickup and control cavity. My quick and dirty calculations show that that should shave another 4 oz or so. I guess a 5.5 lb body isn't the worst in the world, but the average body weight according to what I found online is about 4.5-4.8 lbs. So I would be about a pound heavier. However, the neck is feather light, at 1 lb 2 oz. including the truss rod, so hopefully it will all balance out. With only one pickup and a wraparound bridge, I'm hoping I don't top more than 8-8.5 lbs total. We'll see, I guess.
I like your modern twists, and especially the tuner layout. I guess I am looking for LP JR DC ish plans with the 3x3 tuner layout you have. I am not looking to make an exact copy of any guitar.
That took me a moment, but I got there! :-D
And yes, when I saw the title, the first thing that came to mind was a Red Dwarf themed guitar... which would have been sooo cool (Not that this is not!).
I made my drawing in inkscape (free software) and started with a drawing of a 3x3 headstock with straight pull, left the tuner and nut locations, then drew the new outline that I liked. It's a relatively straightforward process. For the body, I started with a PDF of proper LP Jr DC plans and modified to taste.
If you don't have the plan:
I live in Rochester. Next time you are here, pm me!
Well, lots of work has been happening on this, just not much that makes photos interesting (and let's be honest, that's only reason to check threads like this ). After a snafu with the postal service, I got my fretwire finally. Thanks to my 20" long radius beam (this was my first time using it), this was my easiest fret job ever. Board was perfectly level and radiused the whole way, so it didn't require more than one or two thousandths of leveling and crowning/polishing were super fast too. The whole thing took me maybe an hour and a half, which is flying for me. I then put one thin coat of oil on the bubinga fret board for some color. Anyway, enough yakking, here is what you want:
Alright, I got my bridge in yesterday and real progress was made! I located the bridge and drilled for the studs. With that, I could locate and route the pickup. It will need a shim to dial in the height, but that's ok, better a little too deep than too shallow at this point. With that, I needed a mockup! Note that the wood is splotchy because I still have some CA residue to remove from grain filling (don't worry, there's sealer under there). Here we go with a mockup:
With that done, it was time to do this:
While glue was drying, it was time to do one of my super duper secret activities. I mentioned earlier that I was going to go with modern finishes. One of those is the look of carbon fiber. This is vinyl car wrap material that I got on ebay. It looks phenomenal in person. I am not 100% pleased with how the pickup cover came out, so I might redo it, but I really like the look on the whole. Not shown is the rear cavity cover, which is also covered with this.
Next up is some more sealer, then color coats, and then clear. Here's hoping the weather and schedule cooperate!
Do you think you can document how you do the vinyl?
Quick update. After gluing in the neck, I sprayed a couple coats of sealer. For some reason, this Behlen's vinyl sealer is not laying down as nicely as the Deft sealer I had. I hate Deft lacquer, but the sealer is great. The vinyl stuff sands terribly (clogs like crazy) and I am getting some small surface imperfections. They look almost like micro bubbles. This afternoon I will block sand everything flat and disassemble the gun and give it a REALLY good cleaning. Here is what it looked like as of last night:
That looks great!
A simple, modern-day riff machine.
That's the idea!
I shot the final coats of sealer on last night, which is not worth photographing, so here is how I did the pickup cover. This is actually me re-doing it because I didn't like how the corners came out the first time around. I just used scissors and a brand new exacto blade (this is important). First, I cut a blank large enough and affixed it to the top of the pickup cover:
Next, I cut slits at each corner and notched out just enough so that the length to bend around the side is less than the width of the pickup cover. Confusing words, easier to note in the picture:
Next, I affix the sides:
Then I carefully trimmed small "flaps" on the corners so that I could wrap the vinyl around the end of the pickup cover:
Then I wrap the flaps around the end of the pickup cover. Really hard to photograph, I hope you get the point:
Then I affix the vinyl over the dog ears and trim everything around the edge of the plastic with the exacto knife. I know the dog ear on the right isn't perfect, I fixed it after the picture:
Finally, I used the exacto knife to cut out all holes:
If I was doing this again, I would try to make it so that the corners of the cover lay a little more flat, but that would require some very careful slashing and such. As it is, I think I'm ok with it. I dabbed a super tiny drop of super glue at each seam just to keep it from coming apart. That's all there is to it!
Thank you very much!
I assume it'd also be OK to use the overlapping method that speaker cabinet makers use or am I wrong?
Also, did you consider using the hydrographics method?
I would assume it would be fine, though I didn't try it out. This was just something quick while making waffles for the kids for dinner
I didn't consider hydrographics simply because the film is much more expensive per unit area and you can't just store the unused portion after it hits the water. The vinyl is easy to just cut off some and leave the rest for later.
i cant wait to see how this turns out. i have a secret love for lpj's and yours likely gonna be better than any lpj i have ever seen.
I finally had a beautiful day to spray some color, so I did. A friend gave me a can and a half of reranch heritage cherry, so I used that. It was ok, but I felt it was mixed too strong. I would have liked it to go on a little less heavy color-wise, but whatever. It worked. I also shot one coat of clear to lock it in. Here is where we stand: