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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by tigger, Oct 21, 2017.
I’m really enjoying this thread. Why not add a stinger to hide the neck break?
I don't really like them... I was actually considering putting a thin veneer on just like the neck sides, but it wouldn't be easy to blend in and I'm afraid it would actually make the joint weaker. I'll probably leave it like it is.
I wouldn't worry about the epoxy line. It's now the character and signature of the guitar. And a reminder of the great work you're doing.
I believe Gibson is making new relics now that include repaired neck breaks. You are just a little ahead of the curve! There are just some repair indications that are too substantial to mask. My input is to neaten it as much as possible and carry on. The break picture kind of looks like the face of a tortoise wearing John Lennon glasses with an awkward smile. It works!
Concerning the nut, bone will give you more tone! I have no idea why they went to nylon for bridge saddles and nuts besides ease of workability and cost. It certainly didn’t help sonically. But then again that’s just my $.02.
I started working on a bone nut. The nylon is way harder than the bone. It's definitely a part of the reason why I went with the bone, it seems comparatively immune to sandpaper and files. I imagine it would have been cheaper...
I cut the nut so that the string spaces are even (rather than string centers being evenly laid out). It seems that is what people like more. I looked at my stock guitar nuts and frankly they are all over the place with string spacing.
I did most of the shaping before glueing and will do the rest once the guitar is finished and frets are leveled.
Hide glued in:
the nut looks nice
Finish her already! I’m on the hook bad.
The nylon you have is harder than the bone? What durometer value did you purchase?
Just incredible how far this project has come. Can't wait to see it strung up and playing.
Nylon 6/6 is supposed to be about 80. But I don't know what is the durometer hardness of cow bone... (I'm a mathematician, not a material physicist)
I just looked up cow femur and it’s about 78. I would have not guessed that.
Yes, I knew it was hard so I wasn't surprised, but the optics makes you think it will be a rubbery compound.
I wish I could too! But after a long dry spell it's up to 85% humidity so there isn't much I can do..
always good to be cautious. great job man, it was very fun to speed through months of precision work reading this from beginning to end. the serial number stamps are great, looks just like the stamp on the 81 sg I learned to play on, right down to the slight variations in pressure and the subtle outline of the stamp itself. I've always loved the small pickguard design.
Don't worry about the little imperfections, your work is up to a very high standard. Even without evidence of repairs, I've seen plenty of vintage gibsons that have original factory flaws and it didn't stop them from leaving the factory and sold at retail. For instance, the numerals in the serial stamps are often slightly crooked, and mine actually had a splotch on the back where a worker had clearly spilled the stain and accidentally created a little rorsach pattern on top of the woodgrain.
Nylon nuts are likely injection molded, and as such, the basic form and slots are already done when it pops out of the mold, requiring significantly less labor to finish it up, saving a lot of time and $$ in skilled labor costs.
The Injection Molded Nuts... na, close Rick but Yeknom says no. For his next funk band he was thinking something along the lines Banana Injection or Anita Chaquita and the Banana Peelers...
Rob, please tell me you are just pulling our leg. If it has come to that, "I just don't know if I can bear it..."
I actually read that somewhere. Let me do the semi-responsible thing and follow up with a fact check. Stand by.