Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com

Princeton Reverb Build

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by Phrygian77, Aug 26, 2017.

  1. King Fan

    King Fan Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

    Jan 1, 2013
    Salt Lake City
    You’re right. A full-contact insulator board prevents this, so far, IME. If I elevate the board without one, I do as suggested, crimp the bare wire tightly over the eyelet. Then trim it with a few mm showing so it’ll hang on — and you can see it — for potential revisions.
     

  2. Phrygian77

    Phrygian77 Tele-Holic

    633
    Apr 30, 2016
    Crawfordville, FL
    Starting to look like a real '65, but I ran out of solder....

    1510207252608.jpg
     
    dr_tom, D'tar, sds1 and 1 other person like this.

  3. Phrygian77

    Phrygian77 Tele-Holic

    633
    Apr 30, 2016
    Crawfordville, FL
    Here's the real deal for comparison ..

    1510208373503.jpg
     

  4. dr_tom

    dr_tom Tele-Meister

    285
    Sep 21, 2013
    Ontario
    I love watching builds in this forum! Something I'll never likely do but it's sure fun to watch.
     
    Phrygian77 likes this.

  5. LudwigvonBirk

    LudwigvonBirk Tele-Meister

    Age:
    115
    138
    Aug 26, 2017
    Madison
    Looks tasty. Nice pics.

    If you don't mind, could you share the brand/model and specs-if-custom for the power, output, and reverb transformers you plan to use?

    Not asking for pseudo/niche/voodoo reasons, just tracking your really-good-looking build against several of mine.

    Thx!
     

  6. aerhed

    aerhed Tele-Holic

    Age:
    58
    555
    Dec 24, 2016
    Boulder, WY
    Gonna really sound good.
     
    Phrygian77 likes this.

  7. Phrygian77

    Phrygian77 Tele-Holic

    633
    Apr 30, 2016
    Crawfordville, FL
    They're ClassicTone. The PT is the 40-18027 which is the upgrade 100mA version, but not the newer M6 version. The OT is 40-18038, which is the standard Deluxe Reverb version with 4 & 8 ohm secondaries. I've added an impedance switch for it in the back. Hopefully, I'll be firing it up today.
     

  8. Phrygian77

    Phrygian77 Tele-Holic

    633
    Apr 30, 2016
    Crawfordville, FL
    Oh, the reverb transformer came from Hoffman because I forgot it when I placed my order with TubeDepot.
     

  9. FenderLover

    FenderLover Friend of Leo's

    Jun 11, 2009
    Minnesota
    It's lookin' pretty Phrygian nice.
     

  10. King Fan

    King Fan Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

    Jan 1, 2013
    Salt Lake City
    Great looking build, Phryg! Nice one...
     
    Phrygian77 likes this.

  11. Phrygian77

    Phrygian77 Tele-Holic

    633
    Apr 30, 2016
    Crawfordville, FL
    Well, it seems I've got a short, even with the rectifier out. I suspected the heater wiring, but I lifted one leg of the 6.3 secondary, and I've got 200 ohms at the pilot light assembly and 200 ohms at V1.
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2017 at 1:32 PM

  12. King Fan

    King Fan Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

    Jan 1, 2013
    Salt Lake City
    Bummer. I'm guessing you already know the steps I read somewhere for using a bulb limiter to locate shorts? If not, I've hunted it up once before so let me know.
     

  13. robrob

    robrob Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

    Dec 29, 2012
    United States
    Your chassis looks fantastic.
     
    Phrygian77 likes this.

  14. Phrygian77

    Phrygian77 Tele-Holic

    633
    Apr 30, 2016
    Crawfordville, FL
    Admittedly, I don't have a light bulb limiter yet. I just started making one. I fired up my last two builds without one, and thankfully, had no issues. This however is exactly the reason why everyone should use one, since anything could go awry regardless of how meticulous you are.

    With the rectifier out, unless I'm overlooking something, nothing except the heaters and bias circuit were connected. So, it has to be one of them. Of course, it could be the transformer, but it was working in the prior build (same chassis). I can't rule it out yet though. I haven't fired it back up without the 6.3 volt secondary connected (waiting until I finish my limiter), but it seems unlikely now that was/is the problem. If the problem were on primary side wiring, I wouldn't expect to get 2-3 seconds of voltage on the secondary before the 1A fuse gave up.
     

  15. King Fan

    King Fan Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

    Jan 1, 2013
    Salt Lake City
    Sounds like you’re all over it. Keep us posted.
     

  16. LudwigvonBirk

    LudwigvonBirk Tele-Meister

    Age:
    115
    138
    Aug 26, 2017
    Madison
    Send pics of the heater wire and the bias adjustment area? I'm in PR wire-up mode right now and might be able to spot something (you are ahead of me assembly wise, but I've completed several previously and have pics and notes on those)
     

  17. dan40

    dan40 Tele-Holic

    612
    Aug 19, 2015
    Richmond Va
    Double check that the bias cap is oriented with the positive end to ground.
     

  18. tubeswell

    tubeswell Friend of Leo's

    Jul 1, 2008
    NZ
    Another work-around the problem of under-board leads coming adrift. Drill an extra 1/16" hole 3-4mm from any eyelet that an under board lead needs to attach to and push the lead through this hole so as to solder the lead from the top of the board.
     

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