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Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com

Princeton Reverb Build

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by Phrygian77, Aug 26, 2017.

  1. Phrygian77

    Phrygian77 Tele-Holic

    639
    Apr 30, 2016
    Crawfordville, FL
    Just to be clear, I'm going to have an insulator board, so no screws/nuts will be going under that. I'm building the eyelet board and insulator board out of 1/16" Garolite XX (left over from my Bassman build).

    The Garolite is not as flexible as the vulcanized fiberboard material from Mojotone. I think its flexural strength is fairly good. However, just to be safe, I don't want to put much stress on it torquing the screws down with all the wires and jumpers underneath. So, I'll be putting some 1/8" tall standoffs in between the boards.

    The boards will be be the same width and length as the Mojotone PR boards. It'll be 2.375" wide, which is slightly narrower than the 2.5" originals. I think Mojotone did that because on the originals, Fender mounted the OT with self tapping screws. That left enough room for the board to sit in between those screws. There wouldn't be enough clearance with hex nuts there.
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2017
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  2. Phrygian77

    Phrygian77 Tele-Holic

    639
    Apr 30, 2016
    Crawfordville, FL
    Boards cut. I'm going to try my best not to make a mistake drilling this time!

    1506799361207.jpg
     
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  3. Phrygian77

    Phrygian77 Tele-Holic

    639
    Apr 30, 2016
    Crawfordville, FL
    No mistakes!

    1506811394872.jpg
     
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  4. D'tar

    D'tar Tele-Holic

    949
    Jan 11, 2013
    WNY
    Sweet, now make sure its right side up when you start planting eyelets/turrets.:)
     
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  5. Phrygian77

    Phrygian77 Tele-Holic

    639
    Apr 30, 2016
    Crawfordville, FL
    Lol
     

  6. Phrygian77

    Phrygian77 Tele-Holic

    639
    Apr 30, 2016
    Crawfordville, FL
    Some of the eyelets got a little flattened. It's really hard to stake them perfectly. I also tested my film caps for the outer foil tonight, so I should have board progress pics coming soon.

    1507085172510.jpg
     

  7. Phrygian77

    Phrygian77 Tele-Holic

    639
    Apr 30, 2016
    Crawfordville, FL
    Did anyone notice the eyelet I missed in the last picture? I also noticed that my layout has a 1k label for the 56k resistor in the PI (color bands are correct though). Speaking of 1k resistors, I apparently forgot to order some. I'm also one short on 1M resistors.

    1507177137726.jpg
     

  8. D'tar

    D'tar Tele-Holic

    949
    Jan 11, 2013
    WNY
    No cause the board was upside down on the picture throwing us off. We shall pay closer attention from here on out:)

    Looking good!
     

  9. King Fan

    King Fan Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

    Jan 1, 2013
    Salt Lake City
    Heh, I'm no more likely to spot an omission or incorrect value on a board that big than I am to notice your parts bin is short on 1M resistors. It's us amp builders who keep FedEx, UPS, and the post office out of the red.

    Oh, wait, the post office is in the red. We all better order some more parts from AES and Doug Hoffman....
     

  10. Phrygian77

    Phrygian77 Tele-Holic

    639
    Apr 30, 2016
    Crawfordville, FL
    Sorry it's been a while since I last posted. For the past several weeks, I've been dealing with an abscessed tooth, oral surgery, and now, post surgery infection ... good times. I'm sure all of you wanted to know all that.

    While I don't have much in the way of progress on the build to post about (I should have more later this week), I thought I'd update the layout drawing and post the drill template for the board. I haven't really seen any PR board templates out there, so hopefully someone will find this useful. The extra eyelet holes can be left out. The holes marked in red are the mounting holes for the Zachmdhunter chassis. I have no idea how well they may match up with a Mojotone chassis.

    PR Board Template.jpg PR Layout Draft 3.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

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  11. Phrygian77

    Phrygian77 Tele-Holic

    639
    Apr 30, 2016
    Crawfordville, FL
    1508372456355.jpg


    1508372479062.jpg

    I don't know that I'll ever try cutting those little boards on the table saw again. There's got to be a better way.
     

  12. Phrygian77

    Phrygian77 Tele-Holic

    639
    Apr 30, 2016
    Crawfordville, FL

  13. aerhed

    aerhed Tele-Holic

    Age:
    58
    572
    Dec 24, 2016
    Boulder, WY
    Little tiny trem caps! Easier to solder.
     

  14. Phrygian77

    Phrygian77 Tele-Holic

    639
    Apr 30, 2016
    Crawfordville, FL
    3-way bright switch and raw switch...

    1509331142412.jpg
     
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  15. Phrygian77

    Phrygian77 Tele-Holic

    639
    Apr 30, 2016
    Crawfordville, FL
    Well, now that I'm this far into building the board, I see a potentially fatal flaw. Since the boards are stiff 1/16" Garolite, and I'm using 1/8" standoffs between the boards, any rework of a solder joint with a wire or jumper originating from under the board could cause it to drop down out of the eyelet and become loose under the board, which would obviously require removing the board to fix it, not good.
     

  16. Nickfl

    Nickfl Tele-Holic

    684
    May 24, 2016
    Florida
    I would think that since you using eyelets you could just bend the under board wiring lead over the top of the eyelet slightly so it has a good mechanical connection that'll keep it from dropping out if you have to desolder the eyeet.
     
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  17. LudwigvonBirk

    LudwigvonBirk Tele-Meister

    Age:
    115
    139
    Aug 26, 2017
    Madison
    I've done that ^, works.

    Alternatively, don't solder any wires at all to the underside of the board- it is a drag if you have to work on or debug any of those.
     
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  18. Phrygian77

    Phrygian77 Tele-Holic

    639
    Apr 30, 2016
    Crawfordville, FL
    It's a bit a late at this point, at least for most of it. Looking at it again with the insulator board underneath, I don't think it will be a real problem, unless I try to stuff a new lead in.
     

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