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Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by Flakey, May 13, 2013.
Wow, beautiful job !
Cannot wait to see the end result... Great work !!
Ok lets start putting this guitar together. The tuners are here so lets start with them.
Now one thing I like to do is bevel the edges of the of the tuner holes on the face of the head stock slightly before I push in the ferrels. This makes it easier to insert and keeps them aligned and level in the clamp as they pushed them in.
I use this inexpensive reamer that is made for use in a drill but I slip it on a bit driver, put it in the tuner hole and turn one revolution.
And repeat 5 more times
Now mount the tuners. I'm using ones mounted on a plate. I test fit them to make sure there is no binding of the tuner posts and the ferrels.
I measure the length of the tuner mounting screws and mark the appropriate length for the screws on the bit. A line of Whiteout will work and drill to the depth as marked.
And when its all said and done:
Lets put the bridge on.
Simple procedure and simular to putting in the tuner bushings.
Again. I like to make a slight bevel to the bridge studs. I use the same reamer to do this.
The rubber mallet though safer just doesn't supply enough force send the bushings into the holes so I CAREFULLY use a hammer and a plastic block for a hitting surface to put the bushings into the body.
And here is the body so far with the pickguard attached.
i actually used a similar method to install an LR Baggs pickup in my acoustic a few years ago! i used one of those long stepped drill bits (normally for metal) and i put it in a screwdriver handle like you did. i was able to ream out the endpin hole in about ten minutes, and while it's not an ideal solution, it worked out really well. of course i'd never do that on a $2000 Martin or anything, but for my $400 Fender acoustic it worked great and didn't chip the finish or anything. saved me from having to buy a $75 reamer for one use!
by the way, you might've mentioned it already, but where did you get that thick one-ply tort pickguard? or is it the thin stuff under plexi?
I've used that bit in several situations and its worked great everytime and it was very inexpensive. I go to it when removal of material needs to be handled delicately like your situation when chipping off the finish is a concern.
No its a thick one ply pickguard and I got it off ebay from a regular seller. I'm going to ask him or her if they could make me a control cover or I might make a wood one and veneer burl walnut on it.
I'll go thru my purchase history and pm you the seller's id if you're interested.
The color in the photo is more red that it actually is. Its more of a amber to brown color like on post # 67
thanks, but don't worry about it. i was just thinking about it for future projects, but i don't know when i'll need it. if/when the time comes, i can probably track it down on eBay. thanks though!
Great thread Flakey. Thanks.
And that guitar is beautiful.
Ok more parts are in and I wanted to do something a little different than a black plastic cover.
I found a soapbar cover made from mahogany.
Now I wanted to give it a red and amber color so I stained it with a Minwax oil based stained. I didn't want any of the pigment binder on the cover so I just dipped the paper towel on the oil thats on the lid and after a couple of applications I got the color intensity that I was looking for without mixing up some dye.
Minwax stains use pigmented binder and dye in oil to make their stains. The pigmented binders are for the pores of the wood grain and dye in the oil gives the color for the stain. So if you want to just get the color use a new can or one that has been sitting for a couple of days because the binders have sunk to the bottom of the can leaving the dyed oil on top.
To impart an amber overtone to tie it in with the pickguard I'll put on a couple of spit coats of shellac. Like I did for the headstock.
The color will intensify once I spray a couple of light coats of lacquer but this is how it looks at the moment.
Before and after shots:
Time to put some electricity in this geetar
A couple of CTS pots, a rummage thru my parts junk box yields the proper valued cap., get the soldering iron hot, some braided wire and in it goes.
Looks a little crowded in there!
Lets give these pots and cap. something to work with. Again I go to my parts box and I find 3 P90s laying in there. I grab one put the cover on it and in it goes. The high E doesn't go exactly over the pole. Thats where saddle is slotted on the bridge from the factory. I can move it later or just leave it.
I had two originals in the past and the strings never did line up perfectly. It was designed as a student's guitar back then so...
Time to install the nut. I use a preslotted TUSQ Gibson nut. Super easy install.
I go to my favorite Les Paul and measure the low E and high E height at the first fret while fretting the stings and the 3rd. Apparently I like the low E at 3 mm. and the high E at 2 mm. I measure the nut at those two sides for height and it looks like I'll need to remove about 3- 4 mm of material from the bottom of the nut.
I mark 3 mm up from the bottom from the nut, flip it over, put it in a bench vice with 3 mm expose at the top and take a Dremel with sanding bit and sand the nut bottom down to level with the top of the vice. This leaves about 1 mm left to sand back by hand until I get the desired height for the low and high E strings.
Takes about 10 minutes.
The truss rod cover is here.
Keeping with the wood theme on the head stock I found a cover made of Goncalo Alves wood that looks nice with the burl walnut. I drill 3 holes and on it goes.
Everything is soldered up time to put the knobs on. Again a lot of brown, red and amber tones of color in the guitar so I went with amber top hats and since I want this guitar to be louder than the others I made sure the knobs went up to 11.
Did you check the pole spacing on the other 2 P-90's? Maybe the one you installed is spaced for the neck position?