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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by PonyExpress, Oct 6, 2017.
From what I've heard Rustoleum takes a very long time to dry enough to sand and buff. Up to a month.
CRAP! it sanded just fine. But polishing is a no go right now. Wish I had known that. Thanks RR
Here's what I found..
"Re: Rustoleum acrylic lacquer curing
30 days is more typical of most reactive finishes to reach near full hardness.
Evaporatives like true lacquers and shellac can be much less, but, number and thickness of coats plays a big role in cure time since it is through evaporation of the solvent only.
Spray cans typically dry faster to touch since they are usually thinned more than what one would need in a spray gun.
But ultimate time to full cure is dependent on the primary resin used plus any modifiers.
Rustoleum products.. it's hard to say what is actually in the can these days.
Many of the so called "lacquers" they sell use an alkyd resin as the primary resin. Alkyd takes about 30 days to reach near full cure/hardness.
It should dry hard enough to handle within a week.
If you need near immediate full hardness the only viable options are evaporatives like shellac and true lacquers and catalyzed finishes (2 part urethanes, polyesters, lacquers, etc.).
Some of the waterborne acrylics will achieve near full cure in 1-2 weeks, and can be accelerated a little with a catalyst. Target Coatings and General Finishes make good examples of these types of products. They are designed for spray application and are not available in spray cans."
well I read the can and it said "fully dry in 24 hours"
but I guess dry and hard are two different things.
Is this what they call watching paint dry? Patience is a virtue....
Life happens so its been awhile since I have worked on the tele build.
Neck is fretted and fret work in in progress but I have decided to build a new neck. The frets are not turning out like I want, and the nut slot and tuner hole alignment issue is causing me heart burn.
Ordered a quarter sawn maple blank from bell forest products.
Will apply knowledge learned from mistakes and hopefully end up with a much better end product.
Body was sanded all the way back to bare wood and repainted black with a regular enamel (i guess) rattle can which dried hard waaaaaaaaaaay faster than the rustoleum lacquer. Clear is going to be Brite Tone instrument finish which is a water based finish touted by Highline guitars (is he on here?)
Weather is warming up here so getting back to it.
Test those 2 finishes on scrap. You could run into the water based softening the undercoat or worse the water based stuff lifting the enamel (unlikely but if it dries fast it could). Clear with the same product if you can. You'll have fewer problems.