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Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com

Please help with Duplicolor and Clear Coat advice!

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by TRexF16, Jul 28, 2011.

  1. GManBluesMan

    GManBluesMan TDPRI Member

    9
    Mar 18, 2011
    Houston, Texas
    paint help

    Try ReRanch.com.....

    They have the paint and you can ask them for instructions. They also have a forum where you can get help for the project you are working on.

    Happy Trails:D,

    GMan
     

  2. lordraptor1

    lordraptor1 TDPRI Member

    18
    Dec 6, 2014
    ardmore oklahoma
    i have never had a problem with the clear dupli-color perfect match spray cans but i guess that is because i have been around autobody all my life LOL.
     

  3. smt2

    smt2 NEW MEMBER!

    1
    Oct 8, 2015
    PA
    AWESOME job and info man! I know this thread is old but this is the only relevant thread I've found on the topic. Would you be able to tell me if you sanded the base 1000>1500>2000 or were you able to just hit it with 2000 wet and then clear it? I'm attempting the same task and would like to just use 2000 if possible to minimize pearl/metallic loss.
     

  4. TRexF16

    TRexF16 Friend of Leo's

    Apr 4, 2011
    Tucson
    Hi, I think you're the same gentleman that sent me a private e-mail on this. If so, read my response :p, If not my lesson learned was to sand the duplicolor only as required to fix mistakes, there is no need to sand it to polished level. Try to get a good "as sprayed" coat of Duplicolor and then do your clearcoats on that - no sanding between color and clear, and no sanding clear (except to fix mistakes if required) until all the clear coats are on and cured. Then wet sand and polish per TDPRI "accepted practices."
    When I did that it came out like this:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Cheers,
    Rex
     

  5. harley2008

    harley2008 Former Member

    45
    Nov 30, 2010
    Rancho Cucamonga
    Late to this thread, but here's my experience...
    I've done 2 guitars using Duplicolor from Autozone. The colors are great, and in both cases I clearcoated with standard NC lacquer, either Reranch or Behlen (from Rockler's). All worked fine, but the Duplicolor cans/nozzles are pretty inconsistent, and I have had a TON of issues with the little "gobs" and "spatters," as well as what looks like tiny little strings or hairs that look like strings of paint, but I'm not really sure what they are. Some I fixed, most I just sprayed over lightly to recover, and that helped a ton.

    My Strat was done in Metal Specks red, and looks awesome, but I literally lost half a can to paint literally pouring out under the spray tip.

    Some extra work, but overall a good process and great colors.
     

  6. Lucidfur

    Lucidfur TDPRI Member

    Age:
    26
    3
    Jul 8, 2017
    Canada
    Im using duplicolor right now i see the drip lines on it will 1000 grit help that?
     

    Attached Files:


  7. Silverface

    Silverface Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

    Age:
    65
    Mar 2, 2003
    Lawndale CA
    Sorry, I'm WAY late.

    I was in the coatings business - paint, lacquer, polyurethanes, heavy-=duty coatings etc etc - in tech support, training and managing applicators. Certain "rules" are fairly consistent and I don't recall seeing some things mentioned.

    1. What was the temperature and humidity?

    2. Was *everything* applied in light "coats"that consisted of THREE very light passes(the first few won't even cover)? It looks like full-coverage coats were applied.

    3. Spray distance should be 10-14" and the tip must be perpendicular to the surface. Otherwise the closer areas get too much - further areas too little.

    4. Spray starts (tip is depressed) before the part, moves across at a steady, fast speed, and released only when past the part.

    5. Tip must move at a constant distance. No "arcs" aka "golf swings".

    6. By the 4th or 5th coat (again, 3 passes per coat) you start to spray just a *bit* heavier - but still lightly - and the material will flow.

    7. If it looks dry/ "dusty" & lacks gloss you're spraying at an angle, too far away or going back over it lightly after the actual "coat". If it looks "wavy" it's applied too heavy and may have "solvent entrapment" - which can cause blisters and peeling.

    7a. There is NO sanding between lacquer coats *except* for sanding sealer. Lacquer m,elts into itself creating one contiguous "coat" and sanding is unnecessary, introduces contaminants and can cause adhesion problems. NEVER do it unless you are fixing one or two tiny runs. And any more than that something is very wrong wit the spray technique - which should have been corrected on the practice part.

    8. If it has "orange peel" the whole spray technique has a combination of faults.

    9. Exactly zero of these problems should exist on the part itself. The ENTIRE system should be applied on a "practice piece" or scrap - leaving nothing out - before a drop gets on the real part. All problems get solved before possibly wrecking the real item, all materials are understood including how they work together.

    10. The final result should be smooth enough to go right to the buffing wheel. At worst it might need a bit of wet sanding starting with 1000 - but if thew finish is too rough to do that the system wasn't figured out ahead of time. In other words - it shouldn't happen.

    If Duplicolor's lacquer products are used they work just fine, although a lacquer sanding sealer and usually paste wood filler are used first to get a really smooth surface and avoid air bubbles. But they only work fine if they are applied correctly.

    If two coats were applied and used an entire can of lacquer it's potentially a serious problem. If the temperature was 75 F or above I'd be real concerned about solvent entrapment - where the coating dries on top but not underneath, trapping some tiny pockets of solvent in the film. It can feel perfectly dry but be a nightmare on a month, or 6 months, or 2 years, or never.

    But if it gets warm there's a chance it will suffer blisters, or the material will peel in spots. And if it gets very cold the softer bottom area will contract but the hard outer surface won't - and it cracks.

    So if it was applied too thickly I recommend stripping it and starting over.
     

  8. TRexF16

    TRexF16 Friend of Leo's

    Apr 4, 2011
    Tucson
    Scroll up three posts, Mr. Silverface, Sir. It turned out fine back in 2011 and is still a knockout to this day. In fact I ended up using my "self portrait" reflected in its back the night I first wet sanded and polished it as my avatar. Same night I took the "Red Guitar" wine picture.

    Good advice you posted though - thanks.

    Rex
     

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