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Paisley Thinline questions/opinions

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by mkhhunt, May 18, 2010.

  1. mkhhunt

    mkhhunt Tele-Meister

    I'm doing a paisley fabric covered double bound thinline, like this design.

    black paisley - black.jpg

    It's evolved since then... the plan is double white binding on the body, white binding on the f-hole, teleish headstock shape, two humbuckers, and no control plate.

    IMG_1087_resize.jpg

    And I have most of the routing to the point that I'm ready to glue the top onto it.

    IMG_1113_resize.jpg

    But... should I finish the inside of the cavities? Should they be vented to one another? The F-hole will be open and I was thinking I should vent the cavity south of the bridge to that, and vent the control side cavity (where the green wiring channel tube is running to the control cavity.

    IMG_1123_resize.jpg

    That way there won't be any sealed cavities. Or maybe this just isn't an issue.

    If the cavities are not vented (or there's no real purpose to venting them) then I guess I don't need to finish them. If they are open, should I at least seal them so the wood expands and contracts evenly?

    Cheers

    Murray
     
  2. Colt W. Knight

    Colt W. Knight Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

    Jan 21, 2007
    Tucson, AZ
    I wouldn't worry about venting the cavities. Ive never done it before.

    I wouldn't worry about finishing the cavities other than painting the F hole chamber black for looks.

    I would also suggest using some really thick white binding, so it really pops out with that Paisley.

    Best of Luck, and keep us informed on how to glue and finish fabric to a guitar.
     
  3. udimet720

    udimet720 Tele-Holic

    542
    Feb 26, 2008
    Tustin, CA
    Wow. That is some rockin paisley. Very cool.
     
  4. mkhhunt

    mkhhunt Tele-Meister

    Thanks Colt. Black it is. I put a light coat of sealer in the cavities anyways. Figured it can't hurt.


    Thanks! Hopefully it looks a good as the design picture.
     
  5. ThermionicScott

    ThermionicScott Poster Extraordinaire

    Age:
    38
    Dec 3, 2005
    SW CR IA US NA PE
    Call them "sound chambers" -- "cavities" makes me cringe. ;)
     
  6. mkhhunt

    mkhhunt Tele-Meister

    I glued up the top, first one side
    IMG_1130_sm.jpg

    Then the other
    IMG_1131_sm.jpg

    We have a body!
    IMG_1132_sm.jpg

    Routed around the edges to trim it to size and got mega tearout. All where the cut is going along with the grain - on both side of the lower bout and near the jack hole location.

    This is Douglas Fir, which I thought would be something interesting to try, and it was on sale at the wood store. I'd never use it again. It's quite brittle and chips really easily.

    I didn't take any pictures of the damage, just swore a bit. :mad:

    Here it is all fixed up with some poplar plugs.
    IMG_1143_sm.jpg
     
  7. mkhhunt

    mkhhunt Tele-Meister

    LOL... Working with this Douglas Fir, it was like a having root canal. Maybe that's where I got the cavity thing. It's a good thing it's going to be covered in fabric and painted.

    Cheers

    Murray
     
  8. mkhhunt

    mkhhunt Tele-Meister

    Binding channels. I figured there would be a ton of chip out, but it went really well. I swapped out the bearing on one of my pattern bits and it worked out to be the perfect depth. I just had to fiddle with it a bit to set the height to where I wanted it.

    IMG_1144_sm.jpg

    Nice fit

    IMG_1146_sm.jpg

    I left it a little proud of the top, given that I'll have fabric and finish to build it up. I can scrape it down level later.

    IMG_1147_sm.jpg

    It came out nice and clean overall...

    IMG_1149_sm.jpg
     
  9. JBennett

    JBennett Tele-Afflicted

    Age:
    41
    Jun 23, 2008
    Cold Spring, NY
    This looks good so far. Are you going to lacquer over the fabric? I think that would look great. Just a clear coat, or even an amber to warm it up to the wood parts would look really nice.
     
  10. Legato

    Legato TDPRI Member

    71
    Aug 1, 2006
    Eastern Washington
    What's the accepted method of gluing the fabric to the top? This is going to be a very distinctive guitar.

    Dan
     
  11. JBennett

    JBennett Tele-Afflicted

    Age:
    41
    Jun 23, 2008
    Cold Spring, NY
    I would guess whatever people use to glue tweed onto amp cabinets would do the trick.
     
  12. mkhhunt

    mkhhunt Tele-Meister

    Hi JBennett. Yes I'm going to lacquer over the top. it will no doubt take a bunch of coats.

    Hi Dan, thanks! It will be different for sure. I just used regular carpenter's glue.

    Cheers

    Murray
     
  13. mkhhunt

    mkhhunt Tele-Meister

    I wasn't really sure how this gluing fabric on thing was going to work out. I'd heard that good old carpenter's glue was fine. Or even Elmer's white glue.

    I have an old neck, that plays nicely, that I've done many things to - starting with my own unique headstock design that was somewhat less than attractive. :oops: So it sat for a bit, then I thought I'd dye it ebony... again more patchy than ebony, and finally I patched up the headstock to make it look more tele-ish. Now it's ready for fabric. The back of the neck is going to get painted a metallic black to match the sides of the body. (And to hide many sins...:eek:).

    I figured out how I wanted the paisley to look using the cast off of a headstock printout.

    IMG_1151_sm.jpg

    Here I've smeared glue all over the top of the headstock. I actually used a really flexible putty knife to spread the glue.

    IMG_1153_sm.jpg

    Then I aligned the fabric, peeled it off, fixed the glue, aligned it again, etc.

    IMG_1154_sm.jpg

    The I smeared another layer of glue on top of the fabric, to saturate it.

    IMG_1157_sm.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2010
  14. mkhhunt

    mkhhunt Tele-Meister

    Then I let the glue set up, and once it was dry gave it another coat of glue on the top. When the second coat was dry, I used an Xacto knife to trim the rough edges of the fabric off.

    There were a couple of areas that peeled up at the edges but I just squeezed some more glue in and let it dry again.

    The edges of the fabric actually came off really nicely, nice and smooth with no ragged edges.

    The extra coats of glue on the top have pretty much hidden any visible texture that the fabric had. So it looks good. Some coats of lacquer and it will be perfect!

    IMG_1159_sm.jpg

    It was pretty forgiving too, I trimmed a little too much around the truss rod adjusting hole and was able to glue the piece of fabric I'd cut back in, pretty much without any visible seam.

    IMG_1160_sm.jpg

    Now I have to wait for the bridge I ordered to arrive. Then I can set the neck and figure out the bridge placement. Once that's done I'll finish routing the body. Then fabric for the body. Hopefully it turns out as well as the headstock.

    Cheers

    Murray
     
  15. hackworth1

    hackworth1 Friend of Leo's Vendor Member

    Cool project. Stay with it and keep posting.
     
  16. mkhhunt

    mkhhunt Tele-Meister

    tvvoodoo asked for an update, so here it is.

    I had been rolling along nicely and was clear coating the body when I ran out of lacquer. So I went to the store and they didn't have any of the brand I had been using, but there was another type there. So I asked the counter dude, and he said there wasn't an issue, I could use this other brand.

    Of course there was an issue - they were not compatible, so the body looks like paisley lizard skin. (I dare a chameleon to try and match it! LOL). It's annoying but not a super big deal. I'll just have to sand it back, seal it and re-clear coat it.

    I work in my unheated garage, so I don't do much from October to May. Spraying lacquer in the snow doesn't work too well.

    In the mean time, I'll post construction updates to where I ran into my lacquer troubles.

    Cheers

    Murray
     
  17. mkhhunt

    mkhhunt Tele-Meister

    Setting up the hardware

    I've finished the basic woodwork and now it's time to lay out the bridge and pickups.

    I like to wait until I have the neck mocked up before I try drill the body or make any permanent cutouts.

    I did the neck pickup, and the neck pocket and here I'm checking alignment and bridge spacing

    IMG_1167_sm.jpg

    Measure to set the starting point for the bridge so it will intonate. I measure from the bottom of the nut on the neck.

    IMG_1171_sm.jpg

    A look at the whole setup to check alignment and spacing. I use thread through the tuner holes and down across the neck to the bridge to align it all.
    IMG_1173_sm.jpg
     
  18. mkhhunt

    mkhhunt Tele-Meister

    String through Holes

    I mark the top through the bridge, then drill on the drill press. I only drill the two outside holes all the way through.

    IMG_1174_sm.jpg

    I'll use the bridge on the back as a template for drilling the inner holes in a straight line. They'll meet the ones from the top somewhere inside.

    IMG_1175_sm.jpg

    Then I draw out lines for the ferrules and drill the countersink holes.

    IMG_1176_sm.jpg

    Straight enough...

    IMG_1177_sm.jpg
     
  19. Oakville Dave

    Oakville Dave Friend of Leo's

    Where did you find that paisley?I've been looking for months for one as cool as that! PLEASE post the info/link for it!!
     
  20. Oakville Dave

    Oakville Dave Friend of Leo's

    There's a thread on a paisley strat with an aqua blue burst edge a week or two back. He mentioned he decoupaged the fabric on the guitar.
     
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