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Paisley build

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by 21frets, Jan 23, 2013.

  1. 21frets

    21frets Tele-Meister

    165
    Feb 21, 2012
    Wichita KS
    Well it started out as an Olympic white mim tele, stripped the old finish with a heat gun, it has since been sealed and is ready to have the paisley paper glued to it. This one will be the black so that I can build the pink from the ground up and be able to call it my own. I would be lying if I said I wasn't scared as hell to start the gluing and spraying processes because I am haha, I've got alot of money into this

    but here is where I'm at right now

    Stripped body
    MIM electronics
    Paisley Paper
    Sherwin Williams- LOVOC Lacquer
    Sherwin Williams- K27 Lacquer Thinner
    Harbor Freight Spray Rig
    Duplicolor perfect match colored lacquer
    ColorTone Lacquer dies

    734506_403754473046812_780226788_n.jpg

    Any input tips pointers etc, more than welcome.

    If anyone wants I'll share the link to the guy selling the paper, its good stuff!
     
  2. crw414tele

    crw414tele Tele-Meister

    130
    Oct 4, 2011
    bunbury , Au
    make sure your glue gives you enough time to work any bubbles out from under the paper, and test your lacquer on an off cut to make sure there won't be any weird reactions.and good luck , looking forward to seeing it finished
     
  3. tvvoodoo

    tvvoodoo Tele-Afflicted

    Jun 11, 2010
    Western Canada
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  5. 21frets

    21frets Tele-Meister

    165
    Feb 21, 2012
    Wichita KS
    Thanks guys, and yep. I'll probably be asking both of you for help haha. It's gonna be worth every penny when it's done
     
  6. crw414tele

    crw414tele Tele-Meister

    130
    Oct 4, 2011
    bunbury , Au
    I just read through your glaminator build , well worth the look. I used titebond to give me more glue time , but I hadn't thought of the watering down. I will probably use that on my next body which will replace the current pink esquire I have because I want to use nitro instead of acrylic[ the acrylic took forever to harden and I have fingerprints in it :oops:}
     
  7. 21frets

    21frets Tele-Meister

    165
    Feb 21, 2012
    Wichita KS
    I'll let you know how the LOVOC works out
     
  8. tvvoodoo

    tvvoodoo Tele-Afflicted

    Jun 11, 2010
    Western Canada
    The most important thing (I think) is to either have very stout paper, or protect it with some acrylic clear so it can take a bit of finessing without getting all mucked out by the moisture of the glue.
     
  9. crw414tele

    crw414tele Tele-Meister

    130
    Oct 4, 2011
    bunbury , Au
    +1.
    The paisley paper is both , it's fairly heavy at 270 gsm and it is sealed with acrylic on the top .I didn't have bleed through the back but if the glue is really wet sealing the back wouldn't hurt
     
  10. 21frets

    21frets Tele-Meister

    165
    Feb 21, 2012
    Wichita KS
    good thought, would it be likely for the acrylic clear to get unhappy when i put nitro over it?
     
  11. tvvoodoo

    tvvoodoo Tele-Afflicted

    Jun 11, 2010
    Western Canada
    Mist coat with extreme predjudice - personally, I've been able to mix almost anything over everthing with no issues I couldn't recover from when I did have issues I either did not mist enough or go too wet, too fast. Super blond shellac can also be your friend as transition coats
     
  12. 21frets

    21frets Tele-Meister

    165
    Feb 21, 2012
    Wichita KS
    Did a glue test tonight, no bleed thru so I think I'm gonna be ok without a seal coat on the paper, tomorrow I'm gonna HOPEFULLY get the body glued and do an overboard test with the nitro lacquer and thinner, via straight lacquer and straight thinner to make sure it will hold up.

    One question, how did you guys do the string ferrule holes? Glue then cut etc..?
     
  13. tvvoodoo

    tvvoodoo Tele-Afflicted

    Jun 11, 2010
    Western Canada
    just glue your paper right over them. The lacquer will sag where the holes are if you press down on the paper with your finger after it's set up, and it's easy to find them later. You want to have as few holes in the top paper as possible, to prevent water getting into the wood and swelling when you wet sand. Don't be in a hurry to trim routes or control cavity either. The thicker the material over them, the nicer they cut out later, in my experience.
     
  14. 21frets

    21frets Tele-Meister

    165
    Feb 21, 2012
    Wichita KS
    so spray lacquer then cut them all out? hmm, glad i asked haha
     
  15. 21frets

    21frets Tele-Meister

    165
    Feb 21, 2012
    Wichita KS
    Would you recommend cutting out pickup and control plate cavities after lacquer too?

    and after it cures and is hard and ready to wet sand, or when its kinda soft in the curing process?
     
  16. crw414tele

    crw414tele Tele-Meister

    130
    Oct 4, 2011
    bunbury , Au
    In my experience , if you wet sand with the cutouts already done you run the risk of getting water under the paper , which you don't want
     
  17. 21frets

    21frets Tele-Meister

    165
    Feb 21, 2012
    Wichita KS
    touche
     
  18. tvvoodoo

    tvvoodoo Tele-Afflicted

    Jun 11, 2010
    Western Canada
    Wait as long as possible before trim you make any cutouts, it does cut nice when it is still a bit soft. But I like to wet sand a bit when it is at the two week mark, down to about six or eight hundred grit, then "supposedly" your cure will take less time.
    I say supposedly because my current project is taking forever, but that's my fault for using and off brand clear coat. I think you have to trim before it gets too cured, though, because if you don't you run the risk of chipping.

    I wasn't too worried about leakage, I seal my cavities anyway, with an initial sealer coat before I lay the paper or fabric.
     
  19. 21frets

    21frets Tele-Meister

    165
    Feb 21, 2012
    Wichita KS
    Yea, I read colt knights thread on nitrocellulose lacquer and got what he recommends, the LOVOC and K27 thinner... He said he can wet sand and polish after just three days... I'll probably wait 4 or 5 just to be safe. But might cut out the pockets after 2 days, or 1 and a half depending on how hard it is feeling.

    By the way, I glued it to the body tonight and it's 2:40 am here haha. It's under clamps and I have 50 pounds right in the middle so she sets good. It went like a dream though, I used titebond extended set time glue and spread it as thin as I could while it would still achieve a good stick. I really didn't even have any air bubbles but ran a wall paper smoother over it several times and looked right down the side to make sure it was smooth. The first side (front) I did first, I unclamped after an hour and forty five minutes to glue the back, and the front looked smooth as glass at that point. Probably let it set till round 1 in the afternoon tomorrow to make sure it's good and dry before I start spraying it.

    Goin well so far. Knock on wood...
     
  20. crw414tele

    crw414tele Tele-Meister

    130
    Oct 4, 2011
    bunbury , Au
    happy to hear positive progress mate, keep it up.
     
  21. 21frets

    21frets Tele-Meister

    165
    Feb 21, 2012
    Wichita KS
    Just did the first test with the cheapo spray gun from HF and for a rookie it seems like it'll do just fine. Finishing up trimming the body and be spraying in an hour, hopefully
     
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