Novice First Build: The Jawbone

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Slowtwitch, Jan 1, 2019.

  1. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    While I had the callipers, I checked the neck thickness before gluing on the fretboard.
    Found something was screwy :confused:. Even though it was sent through a thickness planer at 19mm, from heel to nut it varied between 19.2 at the heel to 19.6mm at the nut with high spots along the length.
    I reckoned that would make the neck slope ever so slightly at an angle like shimming the neck slightly - something I don't want!

    Took it to a wood work friend and sorted out the discrepancies. Callipers confirmed a solid 19.00mm thickness along the entire length now.

    Now I could glue the fretboard on (measure, measure cut ;)) with confidence that I had a perfectly straight neck and a pretty perfect thichnessed fretboard

    If I haven't mentioned it before, I use much of the Fletcher Guitars youtube vids on making a Strat neck in guiding me.

    Locating pins for clamping the fretboard accurately
    IMG_20190417_170849.jpeg IMG_20190417_170820.jpeg
     
  2. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Silicone the trussrod in place after a dab of multi purpose oil to lube the threads.
    Forgot to tape the surface and got excess silicone all over the surface :mad:. Used Benzine (white gas) then Acetone to clean off the mess - I hope it worked :rolleyes:
    IMG_20190417_214352.jpeg
    I can't explain it, but somehow, the trussrod lifted proud at the heel, about 0.5mm - even after squeezing it in. Clearly I couldn't displace enough silicone in that area.
    Filed as flush as possible, but just for insurance, I cut a 1mm thin bit from the fretboard bottom to make sure the rod doesn't keep the board from sitting perfectly flush on the neck
    IMG_20190418_082202 (1).jpeg IMG_20190418_102808.jpeg

    Point of no return using every clamping device in my arsenal
    IMG_20190418_121201.jpeg
     
  3. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Next day and time to check how the neck came out
    Router the fretboard flush being careful with the freehand for the overhang at fret 22
    IMG_20190419_082912.jpeg IMG_20190419_082918.jpeg

    Side dots - 2.2mm dia knitting needle, drilled to 2mm dia. 7mm deep handheld drill and file off some of the dowels to wedge into the holes as per my experimental stage
    IMG_20190419_120113.jpeg IMG_20190419_121233.jpeg
    Filed down
    IMG_20190419_141707.jpeg
     
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  4. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    headstock scoop/ transition

    80 grit paper with cloth backing (not paper - it tears every time). Then I switched to 120 grit when I got closer to the lines
    Be careful not to touch the headstock!!! I did,luckily not too much damage

    easy does it
    IMG_20190419_145258.jpeg IMG_20190419_145307.jpeg

    and more easy does it
    IMG_20190419_145821.jpeg IMG_20190419_152324.jpeg

    Filing the access hole for the allen key to turn more easily
    IMG_20190419_173620.jpeg IMG_20190419_173452.jpg

    Happy with the scoop!
    IMG_20190419_173552.jpeg IMG_20190419_173425.jpeg
    IMG_20190419_173528.jpeg
     
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  5. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Mission: Shape the neck :)

    I found a cheap rasp at a 2nd hand shop, so that was going to be my weapon of choice :twisted:
    Draw some facet lines and started to hack away

    Round 1: feeling confident
    IMG_20190420_085307.jpeg IMG_20190420_094816.jpeg

    This was the most effort, and since I am aiming for a neck that feels fat, I went for a more D shape and thicker profile

    Some tools to keep the facets flat heel to nut
    IMG_20190420_124231.jpeg

    Round 2: Facet 2
    IMG_20190420_115422.jpeg
    Starting to feel like a neck
    IMG_20190420_131547.jpeg
     
  6. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Headstock transition getting nicely along
    IMG_20190420_181725.jpeg

    Heel transition needs more work
    IMG_20190420_181808.jpeg
     
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  7. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    IMG_20190420_183924.jpeg
     
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  8. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    I think I'm done with the neck shaping, and boy am I pleased with it!!! :D:D:D
    I know many advise that the first few necks will end up in the fire heap, but I honestly feel this neck is the business.
    Without it set-up to play yet, but just the way it feels, it feels like it's one of the best feeling necks I've held in my hands. This includes a '62 Strat I owned which had a fantastic neck, my current MIA, a few Gibson's I've played and a bunch of other necks.
    Let's wait for the final verdict when it's got strings on :rolleyes:

    I don't quite know how to take pics of a neck to show the shape, but here's a few

    Part of the process was to take sand paper in hand like you hold the neck. It makes the shape ever so slightly asymmetrical. Something I learnt from the youtube vid by Ric McCurdy on shaping a neck
    IMG_20190421_154150.jpeg

    IMG_20190421_175139.jpeg IMG_20190421_175325.jpeg IMG_20190421_175420.jpeg
     
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  9. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    MY BRIDGE FINALLY ARRIVED, 3 months later :confused:, a Wilkinson compensated 3 saddle bridge, very happy with the finish.

    Although I'm still waiting for the chigsby, I can carry on

    Following the advise from http://www.tdpri.com/threads/positioning-a-bridge-saddle-travel.922089/ I marked out everything, a bit surprised that it's quite far off the theoretical Tele drw position, but confident about my measurements :)

    And stoked my neck pocket was cut accurately so my bridge sits dead centre on the body!:D
    IMG_20190424_220321.jpeg

    Drilling the bolt holes was a mission. The body doesn't fit under the drill press, 2mm pilot holes were too small. 2.2mm were too small. 3mm were too small. eventually 3.5mm dia. pilot holes did the trick. I'm grateful I didn't twist off any bolt heads in in the process!:cool:
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 25, 2019
  10. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Now I could also at last do the pickguard

    finalise the template - bridge cut-out
    IMG_20190425_112131.jpeg

    Router straight cut, then chamfer 45deg (check the mess, I've got plastic bits everywhere)
    IMG_20190425_120817 (1).jpeg IMG_20190425_123131.jpeg

    File the pup tight corners
    IMG_20190425_162518.jpeg

    countersink the bolt holes (this piece was wayyy too dangerous to make on the router table, fingers too close to the bit, not sure how I'll do it next time)
    IMG_20190425_155524.jpeg

    Very pleased with the result! Parchment 3 ply white

    IMG_20190425_173613.jpeg IMG_20190425_173642.jpeg
     
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  11. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    I'm finding drilling pilot holes a bit of an dark art. Not too big and not too small (and I know the THEORY of drilling the dia of the shaft, but that is theory)

    I managed to break off the head of a pickguard screw!:mad::mad::mad:

    I was being careful, and it was like the 5th screw I screwed in and didn't feel it had too much resistance, but still it happened

    So used drilled it out using progressive bigger bits and taking some wood out around the screw till I got it drilled out. Filled the hole with wood glue and sawdust mix

    Thankfully all of this is under the pickguard (and I still painting the body)
    IMG_20190426_172851.jpeg
     
  12. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Back on the neck and I'm ready to start the fretting process (even though I only currently have 2ft)

    My slots are narrow, as in 0.45mm narrow, the frets require 0.6mm, so I know I'm entering the fight on aback foot, but I want to give it a go.

    Hammer doesn't work well. Or rather hammer doesn't work

    Opening the slot slightly with a thicker blade, just at the start of the cut allows the tang to take.

    I now know why the preferred method is pressing in the frets with a caul.

    My first attempt is promising - 12" radius wood piece with a steel piece of flat bar, using a G clamp healed pretty a good result

    Hammer not an option for good results
    IMG_20190427_135801.jpeg

    Steel flat bar pressed against the fret into 12" radius. Setting it up takes a minute or 2
    IMG_20190427_170310.jpeg

    The result so far are well seated frets (3 of 'em so far)

    This is still getting there as I was experimenting with the "press"
    IMG_20190427_135754.jpeg
     
  13. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    I give seating the frets so far a PASS, and it would pass most guitar factory quality control standards which is good, but I don't rate it as perfection so far
    IMG_20190428_153908.jpeg IMG_20190428_153940.jpeg

    I'm using normal pliers to cut to size, being careful not to bend the tang as I cut. So far it's work fine without much wastage and not too much filing required.

    It just takes very long since the tang doesn't want to seat well in the narrow cut and tend to want to "collapse". But patience is winning :)

    I got 10 frets done from 2ft, now I wait (prob a month) for the rest to arrive :(
     
  14. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    String through ferrules....

    Not an easy task, and I'm doing them without the ferrules in hand (await delivery) :rolleyes:. It's the only thing left in prepping the body for paint and I want to start painting!!!!

    I had to use an industrial drillpress in order to fit the body under the drill. Great!
    I drilled the 3mm holes through the body one time. Great (I think) (not doing them from both sides)

    Made a jig with a pin to locate the 3mm hole on top while I drill the 10mm and 8mm recess for the ferrules on the bottom. This didn't work. somehow the holes don't line up thru the body perfectly, even though they seem straight to the eye.

    So I used the 10mm brad point centred in the 3mm hole which seem to work okay. Without moving the body, change to 8mm bit. this didn't go too well - it seems like the bit/s are not 100% straight and this is what I ended up with (see esp 3rd hole from left, no lip left on the bottom side)

    Hope it still works:rolleyes:
    IMG_20190503_160722.jpeg
     
  15. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    When painting, do I mask the ferrule holes off, or just spray over them and let the solder bit trick heat any overrun paint in the holes heat up and melt and act as glue?
     
  16. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    taking of the edges by hand
    IMG_20190503_163738.jpeg
     
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  17. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    I had a bit of a "set back", the Chigsby tremolo is nowhere to be found in the postal service, so got a refund, but I'm not waiting another 3 months for a new order, so did some thinking about this first build and decided to slightly change direction esp with the neck coming out so nicely, but only fitting Body No.2, etc, etc.

    So decided to focus on Body No.2 with my first neck (Body 1 has a Strat heel), going for a Tele bridge (hence the string through holes as an option), and liking the wood colour on this one, I decided to stick with a Natural Burst finish in satin, bit open grain look inspired by this...
    Screen+Shot+2018-01-04+at+11.50.12+AM.png

    So prepped the body, all holes drilled and thin sanding sealer layer with brush and properly sanded and flattened at 600 grit

    2k clear poly with dye to colour it tobacco and black - so more layers means darker colour

    In the spray booth getting going


    Had some running paint on the sides if you look carefully (it's a learning curve for me)
    IMG_20190507_151209.jpeg

    The burst wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be - I used a smallish spray gun. The dye was great as it doesn't create visible spots
    IMG_20190508_091640.jpeg IMG_20190508_091627.jpeg

    IMG_20190507_151013.jpeg IMG_20190507_151044.jpeg
     
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  18. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Next day, there is some imperfections to deal with
    IMG_20190508_091607.jpeg IMG_20190508_091640.jpeg

    Also I was surprised to find that the black came out solid ,almost no grain visible on the sides and back, but I reckon if I sand it down a bit, it'll become bit lighter again and show some grain again. I did spray on many layers to get it dark

    Front look
    IMG_20190508_144145.jpeg

    waiting 72 hours to cure before sanding
     
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  19. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Well those imperfections turned out to be bubbles, so clearly I didn't allow enough flash-off time between layers (5min ain't enough). So I had to sand down the back side since the bubbles showed up as white spots which I couldn't fill and they ran through to the first layer.

    Same on the sides and minimal on the front fortunately, so didn't loose the burst, but an extra few hours and days required to sort out this mess :mad:
     
  20. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    While that's going on, I got some fret wire and could finish installing all the frets.

    This is the system I found in the end worked the best:
    I opened the top bit of the fret slots with a figure saw. A piece of real hard wood radiused 12" with a metal flat bar taped on, in a table vice after gently tapping in the fret ends to start with.
    IMG_20190511_125430.jpeg IMG_20190511_125619.jpeg

    All in
    IMG_20190511_135421.jpeg
     
    eallen likes this.
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