Novice First Build: The Jawbone

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Slowtwitch, Jan 1, 2019.

  1. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Stuck the neck template to the neck and routered the neck with my now fixed (phew!;)) router table.

    The result is okay, but not great, will require some sanding to get a smooth edge

    Located and drilled holes
    IMG_20190401_171518.jpeg IMG_20190401_174553.jpeg

    had some blow out with the first hole which was surprising since I did have a backing board.
    With the rest I started the holes from the back (using the 1mm holes for location) just to break the surface, but still drilled the holes from the top surface. This worked perfectly on the rest

    super close up before superglue repair
    IMG_20190401_174623.jpeg

    after repair - sorted:cool:
    IMG_20190401_174952.jpeg
     
  2. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    On to thinning the headstock
    Checking drawings, and my various Strats, the thickness varies from 0.5inch/ 13mm (US) to 14mm to almost 15mm. I decided I like the bit thicker look so around 14.7mm (or a hair under 15mm)

    IMG_20190402_121812.jpeg IMG_20190402_121804.jpeg

    Cutting a flush line 32mm from the nut face - this will be the start to the transition curve
    IMG_20190402_131057.jpeg

    Happy with the thinning
    IMG_20190402_131144.jpeg

    Check the heel fit to Body No.2 which has a Tele heel. Pretty pleased with the nice tight, but not overly tight fit (neck sticks by itself but can be removed without too much effort)
    IMG_20190402_135044.jpeg
     
  3. fsone

    fsone TDPRI Member

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    Beautiful work you are doing on this axe! Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
     
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  4. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Thx fsone, I'm really enjoying the process and I'm especially glad I decided to take on a neck build as well.
    :)
     
  5. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Also tested to see how the pickguard will fit under the fretboard overhang (I'm doing 22 frets), and it should work sweet with not much free board but enough to slip in the guard.

    This means I nailed the neck pocket depth and neck thickness :cool:
    IMG_20190402_205923.jpeg
     
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  6. mrz80

    mrz80 Tele-Meister

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    Marvelous work so far, and that was DARNED clever with the way you put the logo on that headstock. Looks screen-printed. Might have to try that on a future build.
     
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  7. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Taking stock, but still a long way to go

    IMG_20190402_211648.jpg
     
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  8. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Yeah thx, the only issue would be if you'd prefer a oil wood finish as oppose to a varnish finish it won't work, since the ink requires to be sealed
     
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  9. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    I realised saw cutting an accurate cut is not easy!!!!

    It took me THREE attempts at making a reliable mitre box and I think I now will be able to cut accurate fret slots
    IMG_20190405_153845.jpeg IMG_20190405_153837.jpeg IMG_20190406_074156.jpeg
     
  10. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    More precise work, this time cutting the cavities for the pickguard.

    This wasn't easy either!!!!:confused:

    Ended cutting it first in Masonite, filing the corners which I was concerned wouldn't look great, but turned out fine and happy with a good fit.

    Then I cut the cavities in the MDF router template i.e. so didn't file the corners, since this will be done by hand on the actual guard
    IMG_20190406_114954.jpeg IMG_20190406_114935.jpeg IMG_20190406_175629.jpeg

    I decided to move the neck pup slightly further back from what a Tele HH position is, so had to router the cavities by a few mm on both Body No.1 and 2. They don't look that eloquent any more, but it will be hidden ;). I wanted to make sure the pups have sufficient space now that I've finalised the pickguard layout.
    IMG_20190406_181748.jpeg
     
  11. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Looking at the cavities and with the weight of the body still on my mind, I decided to try cut down on some weight, so deepen the cavities and increase cavity under the pickguard in areas where one won't notice it (like a press point for little finger or control knobs are)

    I managed to shed about 400grams and it def helped
    IMG_20190410_135145 (1).jpeg IMG_20190410_145023.jpeg
     
  12. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    So FINALLY the day has dawned!!

    Time to cut the frets :cool:

    I tried to print a fret layout drawing to scale without success.:mad:

    I used 3 different sources to generate the drawings, the last being CAD and a few different printers, but non of them could print out spot on. The only thing I didn't try is a plotter (my mate's plotter needs servicing), so I'm still keen to see how accurate the plotter prints.

    I decided then to rather take the fretboard to scribe the lines using CNC. Sourcing the correct bit for a CNC router and to cut the slots is not easy and most recommended not going that route, hence me only scribing the board to mark.
    IMG_20190412_121008.jpeg

    My mitre box at work :). So far so good
    IMG_20190412_132710.jpeg IMG_20190412_131335.jpeg

    The nut slot
    IMG_20190412_152010.jpeg

    All done and very pleased:cool:
    IMG_20190412_152039.jpeg

    I didn't cut too accurately the slot depths, since I still need to radius the board and reckoned I'd finalise the cuts once the board is radiused
     
  13. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Next is dot inlays
    IMG_20190412_163841.jpeg

    Making sure I mark the correct frets - I've heard many reports of guys accidentally marking the wrong fret. Don't want that to happen with me!
    IMG_20190412_163853.jpeg
     
  14. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Various stages from test on the actual board off-cut to filing dots
    IMG_20190413_080606 (1).jpeg IMG_20190413_080540.jpeg

    IMG_20190413_093356.jpeg IMG_20190413_100012.jpeg

    I got some Loctite Gel superglue, not the cheapest around, but it worked very well for the inlays, even overrunning onto the fretboard didn't seep into the voids and grooves too much like the runny/ watery superglue I used during testing :)

    "Filing" out the nut slot using a thinnnnn piece of 150 grit when you don't own nut files
    IMG_20190413_110417.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2019
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  15. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    On to radiusing the board using my not-so-fantastic-looking-but-servicable 12" radius beam with depth stop sides

    Lets find out how it works in practice :)
    IMG_20190413_122625.jpeg IMG_20190413_122618.jpeg

    Getting there but more needed
    IMG_20190413_123137.jpeg
     
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  16. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    I did my first radius block like that in the 80's and it wasn't half the size of that. Maybe about 1/3 the length of yours. Not too many people venture into that glue up territory...LOL.
     
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  17. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Router bits are short, which is my only means, so gotta use what I got and make do :).

    I see there's a few low spots in the beam and only some areas make contact with the board, but slowly it's getting done. I started with 150 grit but were having to change twice already. So I changed to 80 grit, which doesn't seem to scratch the surface too much that I'm concerned
     
  18. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    So this took waaaaay longer than anticipated!! :confused:
    But it is the first time and eventually I got there.
    Just final sanding required, maybe 320 grit to "polish" out some fine lines and double checking levels all round, but it seems pretty even
    IMG_20190414_175015.jpeg

    Got tired using the big block and having to change taped down paper all the time, so I decided stuff it and cut the beam short and no longer using double sided tape but now I could rap a piece of paper and change paper quicker
    IMG_20190414_175044.jpeg

    Lessons learnt:
    - You don't need a long beam from Stew Mac
    -the depth stop design does help to keep the sides even both sides
    -2 fences is a must to guide the beam
    -change sand paper often
    -I used 80 grit which worked, but to be safe maybe 120 is a good call - not all 80 grits are equel and some may leave deep scratches, mine didn't

    :)
     
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  19. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    After you do enough necks, you'll see why people go nuts for the long metal radius beam....:).
     
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  20. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Borrowing a calliper to be as accurate as possible
    Pretty pleased with a consistent thickness at 6.60mm which is slightly more than the design 6.4mm, but at least it's consistent :)
    On my way there
    IMG_20190415_171849.jpeg

    As I'm sanding down, the fret markers are looking much better, and I'm also pleased how they look close up with no oversized holes, or irregularities showing. I give it about a 9/10 :cool:
    IMG_20190415_181911.jpeg
     
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