Novice First Build: The Jawbone

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Slowtwitch, Jan 1, 2019.

  1. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

    Posts:
    19,811
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2003
    Location:
    Ontario County


    In case you want to bypass the gross part...well sort of, pet stores sell bleached bones for dogs.

    https://www.pawstruck.com/products/...MIvKiH3YD94AIVj4vICh2Hkg5xEAQYBSABEgKC4_D_BwE

    I've been rolling my own for over a decade now.
     
    Slowtwitch likes this.
  2. GPlo

    GPlo Tele-Meister

    Age:
    32
    Posts:
    123
    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2018
    Location:
    Netherlands
    Cool stuff man. I like all the little detours you’re taking while building a guitar (and learning along the way). How much time are you able to spend on all this?
     
    Slowtwitch likes this.
  3. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    203
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2018
    Location:
    South Africa
    Currently I do have some time at hand, but the main thing is to think things through, test run them make sure I know what I'm doing before ruining something.

    Kinda measure twice, cut once principle;)
     
    Lake Placid Blue likes this.
  4. jvin248

    jvin248 Poster Extraordinaire

    Posts:
    7,133
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2014
    Location:
    Lions & Tigers oh Mi !
    .

    Your plan for the flexible saw with wood depth stops plus stiffeners is what I do too. I have a 'flush cut saw' used for cutting dowels off at the surface, I hammered the kerf narrower then ran a strip of double-sided tape and a wood strip to set the depth plus keeps the blade straight. Works great.

    .
     
  5. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    203
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2018
    Location:
    South Africa
    I'm not following, can you explain bit more?

    So far my trials hasn't been so successful as planned. With the stiffners glued to the flush cut blade, and with only 2mm of teeth sticking out at the bottom, I can't see the line I need to cut. I did start the stiffners 1 tooth back from the leading edge so I can see the line, but can't see at the back (handle side) so the blade wonders a bit and I tend to scratch the surface a bit all over before there's an actual groove forming - even with a side fence in place

    This is of course on test pieces

    IMG_20190313_140536.jpeg

    I'm now thinking of making a small MDF mitter box to suit this thin blade i.e. purpose built mitter box that'll take a fretboard blank(with square edge to cut perpendicular) and cut the blade slot with the actual blade so it fits tight and keeps the blade in place and vertical

    I could still do a depth stop with pieces clamped at the top to stop against the box sides
     
  6. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    203
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2018
    Location:
    South Africa
    Here it is... and happy with the results so far!
    IMG_20190316_180234.jpeg IMG_20190316_181418.jpeg
     

    Attached Files:

  7. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    203
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2018
    Location:
    South Africa
    I managed to borrow a friend's drill press!:D

    And with my neck pate having arrived, it's time to drill a few holes quickly....
    NOT!!!!!

    First mark neck bolt positions on body No.2
    IMG_20190317_120822.jpeg

    Clamping the wood down with a backing board (to prevent breakout) ain't that easy or quick
    IMG_20190317_125313.jpeg

    Drilling lesson: move the backing board after every hole drilled. Doing 4 holes will eventually cause breakout, as can be seen here - hole no.4 bottom right, not too major, but still could have been prevented
    IMG_20190317_150327.jpeg

    Good fit
    IMG_20190317_150245.jpeg

    On to body No. 1
    IMG_20190317_154917.jpeg IMG_20190317_155042.jpeg

    This little exercise took a few hours
     
  8. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    203
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2018
    Location:
    South Africa
    While I'm at it, I drilled a few holes for my templates

    Not that easy to drill accurately I learnt today, but taking my time, I'm happy with the result
    IMG_20190317_171153.jpeg

    Pick guard screw holes
    IMG_20190317_181757.jpeg

    I'm really not happy with the pup cavity, I'm thinking to take those cuts to CNC
     
  9. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    3,037
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2012
    Location:
    Calgary, Alberta
    For future reference drill the neck holes from the back before routing the neck pocket then blowout won't matter. Great looking bulid!
     
    Lake Placid Blue and Slowtwitch like this.
  10. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    203
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2018
    Location:
    South Africa
    Thx for the advise
     
  11. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    203
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2018
    Location:
    South Africa
    Slowly but surely the pieces are starting to come together

    Remember the completely wrong drilled holes when I bought this neck?

    Well time to set it right! Note the 2 x 12" profiles used from my soon to be radius block to seat the neck properly.
    Fitted the neck to body, aligned properly, clamped down and marked the neck holes through the body drilled holes

    Body was drilled @ 5mm dia. so the bolts don't screw into the body only the neck. Neck holes I'm drilling 2.5mm dia.
    IMG_20190319_122918.jpeg

    Happy with the fit
    IMG_20190319_133828.jpeg IMG_20190319_133847.jpeg IMG_20190319_133857.jpeg

    And happy with the alignment! Remember to wax those neck bolts before screwing in. I use candle wax
    IMG_20190319_134131.jpeg

    I still haven't received my bridge. Also the machine heads I ordered arrived but they sent me LEFT hand tuners :confused::confused::confused:

    Without those pieces I can't drill the final holes, and I don't want to paint the body before all the holes are not drilled and I've checked intonation etc.

    So I can't go much further on the body for now

    PATIENCE
     
    Treadplatedual likes this.
  12. TRexF16

    TRexF16 Friend of Leo's Vendor Member

    Posts:
    3,970
    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2011
    Location:
    Tucson
    Regarding your bone nut blanks, one of the advantages of real bone for a nut is the very small amount of natural grease that remains in the bone providing a natural lubricant for the strings. You might consider not leaching out 100% of the grease from the bone. A little bit remaining may not hurt.

    Your build is coming along nice and you are doing a great job of problem-solving and thinking through you steps before taking them!

    Cheers,
    Rex
     
    Slowtwitch likes this.
  13. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    203
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2018
    Location:
    South Africa
    Thank you so much Rex!;)

    The nuts are in Benzine (white gas) right now

    Any idea for how long to leave them then?
    IMG_20190319_142955.jpeg
     
  14. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

    Age:
    71
    Posts:
    4,322
    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2009
    Location:
    Queensland Australia
    That must be a very small kitchen or a HUGE bottle!:lol:

    DC
     
  15. TRexF16

    TRexF16 Friend of Leo's Vendor Member

    Posts:
    3,970
    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2011
    Location:
    Tucson
    Unfortunately no, I've no idea at all. I'd pull them out after a week and let them dry thoroughly, then see if they feel right. Just a hint of natural slickness. Repeat as needed?
    Just my two cents. I've never cut nuts from bone that fresh myself.
     
    Slowtwitch likes this.
  16. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    203
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2018
    Location:
    South Africa
    I finally received fret wire, truss rod and pick guard blank! :cool:

    BUT, they sent me one 2ft piece of fret wire. Enough to fit in 12 frets - half a neck. Who sells half a neck's fret wire????? Well ALLparts do!!!!! What are they thinking????:confused::confused::confused::confused:
     
  17. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    203
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2018
    Location:
    South Africa
    Drilling some holes now that I've received strap buttons and input jack plate. The side of the hole just touching the side of the cavity to route wires. The bubbling you see is the sanding sealer top layer, so no biggy, just smooth it out
    IMG_20190325_162802.jpeg
     
  18. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    203
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2018
    Location:
    South Africa
    IMG_20190316_091754.jpeg

    Surfboards??? You must be kidd'n

    A mate of mine said I'm welcome to use his shaping bay to spray, so this is part of my learning curve.
    I've never used a spray gun before, so decided to learn on an old longboard of mine :)

    IMG_20190316_093439.jpeg

    My mate was surprised to hear it's my first time ever using spray equipment :D

    Technique done, spray job.... o my word what a mess!!!! He didn't realise the primer we used didn't need hardener, so it's a total stuff up with the primer not sticking :mad:. O well sand all off and start again for more practice time I guess :confused:
     
  19. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    203
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2018
    Location:
    South Africa
    Now that I've received the Allparts double action truss rod (same as Bitterroot rods), I can start with the neck :)

    Following Fletcher's steps, I start with the truss rod route while I have a jointed edge.

    My table router's nut thread is stuffed (cross threaded) from all the changing of the collar between the 2 routers, so while I wait for a fix (hopefully!!!!), I decided to do this using the hand held router.

    One or 2 places the router wondered slightly, but nothing too serious and afterwards felt it was a good choice to use the hand held
    IMG_20190330_114020.jpeg

    IMG_20190331_160324.jpeg
    Following the advise from this thread http://www.tdpri.com/threads/truss-rod-installation-headstock-adjust.915489/ I decided to go with Rex's method for access to the peghead adjuser.

    The nut is at 20 with the truss rod end set back 3mm. In hindsight, I'd rather stop the access route 3mm shorter, now that I've tried the allen key
    IMG_20190331_161854.jpeg IMG_20190331_162202.jpeg IMG_20190331_160343.jpeg
     

    Attached Files:

  20. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    203
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2018
    Location:
    South Africa
    Rough cut
    IMG_20190401_125228.jpeg
     
IMPORTANT: Treat everyone here with respect, no matter how difficult!
No sex, drug, political, religion or hate discussion permitted here.


  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.