Novice First Build: The Jawbone

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Slowtwitch, Jan 1, 2019.

  1. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    Honestly you can use whatever you want for a body. The less dense, the more dings it gets and "maybe" the screw holding wouldn't be so hot on say Balsa Wood. A neck wood you have to be a bit more finicky with. Rosewood isn't as dense as ebony or maple and it is pretty popular. Rosewood is also an open grained wood. I wouldn't discount your fretboard wood just because it is open grained.
     
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  2. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    While I wait for parts....

    Fret bender - crude, but should work okay. layout dims from youtube
    IMG_20190211_143646.jpeg

    The top bearing bolt can adjust up or down to adjust the bend radius and
    2 bearings with spacers between are used for the fret tang to be seated, I'll remove/ add thin spacers between the 2 bearings as required
    IMG_20190211_143657.jpeg
     
  3. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    I met another old retired woodworker in town who was happy to give me some nice indigenous wood for my neck build!!!

    Sneeze Wood for the neck and Stinkwood for the fretboard. The Stinkwood piece was thick enough so we ripped it to two 10mm thick boards!!!
    IMG_20190206_155223.jpeg
     
  4. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Both these woods are considered exotic woods in SA, so I'm very fortunate to have been given these pieces.

    So the pressure is on not to stuff it up :)
     
  5. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    While I wait, I made these 2 cutting boards for my wife and daughter. The light stripes are from the off cuts Ash body and the rest is from some very nice wood ( I think Maranti) which is from a small pile someone thru out.

    The Maranti was neatly cut to thickness and needed very little work, but cutting that Ash with a hand saw to size was alottttttttt of hard work!!!! :confused:

    IMG_20190216_155245 (1).jpeg

    I find myself now checking everywhere for pieces of wood :)
     
  6. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    And I decided I can't leave that nice Kiaat beam just staring at me, and since it is not really suited for a neck (which I actually now think it could be), I decided why not start a second body.

    A three piece Kiaat body! Build No. 2
    IMG_20190216_184456.jpeg
    IMG_20190217_063719.jpeg
     

    Attached Files:

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  7. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Brownie points for all the dust and noise while building guitars ;)

    Before oiling with olive oil

    IMG_20190218_190106.jpeg
    IMG_20190218_190046.jpeg

    It gave me a chance to practice my skills on my revamped router- planing jig

    Worked a charm
     
  8. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Once oiled, the colour popped

    O my! These woods are certainly not Maranti!!!!!!

    The brown wood smells and looks like Umbuia and the red one Cherry wood. And my lack of wood knowledge shines through :confused:

    Both rare and very special woods

    The Umbuia looks like it will make great fretboards, one of the hardest woods at 3500 Janka scale.

    And I cut it up for a chopping board :eek:

    I do have a piece or two left for fretboards

    And to think someone thru this timber out!!
     

    Attached Files:

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  9. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Starting to plane down Body #2.

    This jig works really well in getting a pretty smooth surface without real cut lines from the router passes. Still visible, but pretty flat so will sand out easy

    Taking the thickness down from 55mm to 48mm (1.89 inch) thick.

    I really like the feel of the thicker body I made with Body #1.
    IMG_20190219_094518.jpeg
     
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  10. Treadplatedual

    Treadplatedual Tele-Holic

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    Hoo boy, how much will that weigh?
     
  11. boop

    boop Tele-Meister

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    +1 for kitchen utensil side projects! I have a love/hate relationship with carving spoons. They are a lot like making guitar necks.

    Nice cutting boards and the build(s) are looking good
    [​IMG]
     
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  12. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    I received some of the goodies!!!!
    The Donlis PAF pup looks great with the chrome cover, and it gives me now the chance to continue with the pick guard template pup cut-outs, to fit these pups
    IMG_20190226_163447.jpeg

    I also got to the neck cavity for Body No.2
    Measure, Measure again, Measure a few for times then cut
    I decided to do this pocket for a Tele square heel
    IMG_20190226_163329.jpeg

    It's nice tight fit and lines up well with the centreline
    IMG_20190226_163335.jpeg

    Body No.1 with a Strat heel also lines up very well. The one corner of the heel is just to a perfect flush fit, but not too bad
    IMG_20190226_163434.jpeg

    Fitting the pup to the body cavities proofed a bit too tight without much room for movement/ adjustment. So I routed the template(s) slightly bigger and then the body cavities. There's no need for it to be too tight a fit
     
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  13. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    THE UGLY....
    Taping the drill bit 5mm too long to guide the relief holes before routing :mad::mad::mad:
    Measure once, stuff things up, then fix the mess:confused:

    At least it's flush and smooth
    IMG_20190226_184114.jpeg
     
  14. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Body#2 is surprisingly light, with the cavities now done, it only weighs in at 2.1kg (4.6lb) and much lighter than the Ash body.

    Roundovers still to do then input jack hole and strap button holes and earth wire to bridge hole
    IMG_20190227_161512.jpeg
     
  15. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Thinking neck, I've never done any inlays in my life and so started thinking what can I use.

    I'm really keen on brass, but seems like guys feel them dots tarnish and don't look good after a while.

    For side dots I've considered many things and ended with this idea...

    Aluminium knitting needles!!

    cheap and any size you want, so I bought 2.25mm to experiment with for side dots.
    drilling 2mm holes 7mm deep (approx 1/4inch) and filing off just a bit for the first half of the dowel works really well. the rest of the dowel then wedges in and no need for superglue, which on the top one you can see I used superglue and the overrun stained the wood. I tried a few times and overrun is unavoidable. I can try using gel but I feel it's not needed for the side dots.

    The alu files and sands very easy so no issue at all. I'll try this for the main markers as well but using a 6mm knitting needle. (alternatively I need to buy alu rod which is 2.5m long - enough for 100 fretboards :eek:)

    IMG_20190307_121858.jpeg
    IMG_20190307_103725.jpeg IMG_20190307_103949.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2019
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  16. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Fretboard markers are coming out very well on my test piece

    I'm using 5mm dia. Fender Strat's seems to use 1/4inch or 6.35mm, but my other no-name brand uses 5mm which looks bit more class to me. Also smaller means less interference with the fretboard when bending strings over 2 material types - a reason why I dislike large inlay fret boards aka LP boards ;)

    One thing I need to sort out though is using superglue. With the fretboard markers, I can drill 4mm deep with out bottoming out with the brad point drill bit, but it still requires glue.

    The watery type superglue stains the wood too much by going into all voids. So I have to find the gell type.
    The 2 bottom dots are the final ones. Note also no breakout of the edges - I reverse drill to start (thx Stew Mac for the tip) and works a charm
    Left you can note the glue stain, right is not glued
    IMG_20190308_170045.jpeg
     
  17. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    My attempt at making a 12 inch radius beam for the fretboard with bottom out end stop.

    I've seen guys struggle to sand the board equally on each side, so I reckon why not let the beam sand say 6.5mm max and then bottoms out? this way you can get an even profile without one side being higher than the other side (e string vs E string side).

    So you set 2 fences for the beam centred over the fretboard and sand until the bottom edges touch both sides the full length of the beam (which I make longish) ;)

    Work in progress...
    IMG_20190309_101807.jpeg IMG_20190309_111021.jpeg
     
  18. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    So technically not part of this build, but it's part of my learning curve of building guitars...

    I've never changed pups before, or really soldered parts. Okay maybe one tone pot I replaced.

    But my son has a very nice no-name brand chinese strat. Awesome neck and really a quality guitar with cheap parts. Tone is surprisingly good even with ceramic pups.

    Yesterday we received the Donlis single coil Anico 5&2 mixed pups
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Fre...110.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.33174c4dsd1wcp
    Really high spec stuff - same quality as Seymore etc. for a fraction of the cost, good reviews here and on Strat-Talk.

    And so today I fitted my first pickups.

    Obviously streight forward but a necessary process I had to learn

    And the pups sound sweet, really sweet!

    Neck pup installed (yes I could've cut the wires shorted but didn't want to)
    IMG_20190310_163801.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2019
  19. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Following the advice from this thread: http://www.tdpri.com/threads/fret-slots-by-cnc-band-saw-figure-saw.923415/ I finally got a fret cutting blade with visit to the nearby city!!
    Japanese flush cut saw blade for under $10 locally

    My idea will be to stiffen the blade with 2 wood pieces which will also act as depth stop and riding against a fence to guide the cut.

    The kerf is 0.5-0.6mm which should hopefully be perfect for the fret tangs to be well seated
    IMG_20190311_153259.jpeg

    A quick mockup and trial as a first test - pretty pleased with the result on soft pine
    IMG_20190311_174346.jpeg
     
  20. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    So as I progress (very slowly!:cool:) I'm keen do make more things myself.

    So what about making my own nut. I don't have nut files, and right now it's a bit expensive to consider buying a set, but what about making my own BONE NUTS?

    It's a mission and a Graphtech nut is good, but there's something about an instument with a Bone nut ;)

    So searching the net on how to do this I came across this guy's post. He seems to know what he's talking about.http://www.bearmeadow.com/build/materials/bone/html/bone-clean.html

    The main issue it seems is getting the bone dry and free of leaching any grease/ fat over time. If it does, it will ruin wood, finishes, glue, etc.

    But I'm still keen!:)

    Step 1. Buy Beef bone from butcher, in this case a nice marrow bone
    IMG_20190311_144349.jpeg

    Step 2. remove marrow and boil in water/ detergent for 2 hours (the gross part)
    IMG_20190311_170350.jpeg

    Step 3. Cut to smaller pieces (hacksaw) and sand away top layer
    IMG_20190312_104322.jpeg

    Step 4. Cut/ sand to oversized blanks
    IMG_20190312_130627.jpeg IMG_20190312_165447.jpeg

    I'm really pleased with how smooth these sand, so I'm confident they'll make really nice nuts

    In SA these blanks cost approx $10 each

    So even though they look usable at this stage, the de-greasing only starts now.

    Next step is let them sleep in Benzine (in US "white gas") for 2-3 weeks. I'll let them go for a month, not wanting any remaining grease :confused:
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 12, 2019
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